Ip plunger broke off, what can I do?
 

I took a fuel line out of the ip today and the long plunger came out, I'm not sure but I don't think there suppose to.

You should post what year and modle of Car you have as all the Fuel Injection pumps are not a like.

However, take a look at the below drawing and see if you can recognize the part you are speaking of.

#1 is what the Steel Fuel Injection Line attaches to on the Fuel Injection Pump. If the Steel Fuel Injection Line sticks to it when you try to remove the Fuel Injection Line you can end up unscrewing #1.
If so this is not a terrible problem. However make sure all the parts are there.
The T shaped #6 part is supposed to remain inside of the Fuel Injection Pump. If that was removed that is a whole different issue.

Sorry it is the 617 motor. The shaft goes thru #6

Is number 6 completely out of the Fuel Injection Pump Housing?

I think he means #3 the delivery valve. Hope he's not talking about the element it self!

Yes it is Completely out and the shaft that comes thru the bottom is the one I'm talking about

Now I have a good idea of what is out.

When part #6 and the Plunger are in the Fuel Injection Pump Housing in their normal position those elongated holes on each side of the T are there so that the #6 piece can be rotated to adjust the Fuel on that individual Element.
The #6 part with the Plunger is the Element. The only time any of the Elements are supposed to be out of the Fuel Injection Pump is during origional assembly of the Fuel Injection Pump or when the Fuel Injection Pump is being torn down so it can be rebuilt.

When the Fuel Injection Pump is put back tegether it is put on a Calibration stand and the Fuel Quanity for each individual Element is set as well as the Governor so that it delivers the correct amount of Fuel at the correct time.

So the best advice in this case is to either find a good used Fuel Injection Pump or send it to a Fuel Injection Shop and have them put it back together and Calibrate it.
But, in the past Shops did not like to reclabrate a used pump. But, you would not know for sure unless you ask.
One of th 2 choices above is the surest way to get a good results.

I have not had one of these Fuel Injection Pumps apart so I cannot talk you through how to put it back together.
So, the next part is 2nd hand info. Somewhere in our forum one of the Members did pull the same part out.

He said he put it back in and there is some sort of Referance line or raised portion on both the Fuel Injection Pump Housing and one side of #6 (#6 only goes in one way). If you line those up your Fuel quanity is close (that is what he said).

That being said if you get the Plunger back into the wrong place inside of the Fuel Injection Pump Housing; I believe it is possible to damage your Fuel Injection Pump Housing when the Fuel Injection Pump Cam starts pushing it up.

It would be nice if that memeber saw this thread and could give some advice or if you could find his thread and PM him.

I took #3 and #4 out and now Im not getting any fuel to the injector. I also need to have the IP recalibrated. How hard is it to take off the IP from the engine and reinstall and set timing? Any links or write ups for this?

And Ive got a 70' 220D

Thanks,
Sean

#3 only goes into 1 end of #4; if you get the ends backwards it will not seal. You can look for the wear marks inside to see which is the correct end it was supposed to go into.

My recolection is that the Fuel Injectin Pump on the 220D is not an MW Pump; meaning that the #6 piece (the Element Barrel) is different.
It sits deep inside of the Fuel Injection Pump Housing. The problem here is that sometimes if you pull up on #4 the Element Barrel will pull up and get out of the alignment slot on the Barrel.
When you assemble and tighten it down like this it is possible to ruin the Fuel Injection Pump Housing.

I see. Any idea on the cost of having my pump recalibrated with the pump still in the car?

thanks,
Sean

Pump Cannot be Calibrated whilst still on the engine!

IT HAS to be put onto a special pump Test-Bench, such as a Hartridge etc, primed up with fuel and run with an electric motor driving it, via a variable speed high torque drive.
--like this-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gcmSHR0jrYE

The adjustements (There are LOADS!) appear in a special Test-Plan which referrs to That Model mumber pump only!

There are Loads of settings, each element has to be set, the rollers below running on the cam--they are set by their size (Thirty odd different sizes) and the Governor itself has around 10 different adjustments, all of which interrelate to eachj other and must be set in the right order to the right setting or the pump will not work right....

I see, so you would or would not recommend me taking the pump off myself to take to be rebuilt? Im guessing putting it back on would be a real pain as well.

All this just because I took out the damn valve body when I wasnt supposed to. :mad:

Answer
 

Call for a rebuild quote. :)

Removal and re-installation is real easy!

No matter What happens, That pump has GOT to come off now anyway, so you might as well get started...;)

I did a write-up somewhere about it in a reply to a guy who had chain issues, I'll see if I can find it for ya...

Remove and install is DIY
 

Remove and install is DIY.
Here are the basic links you need.

Diesel Injection:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diy-links-parts-category/142405-diesel-injection.html

Engine Mechanical:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diy-links-parts-category/142400-engine-mechanical.html