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  #16  
Old 04-15-2010, 01:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
...
there is a forum member here that installed 2 617 in his boat. wish i could remember his name.

Charlie
That would be "oel_brenner". But I don't think he ever personally posted stuff on his boat here.




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  #17  
Old 04-15-2010, 01:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Sev View Post
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yeah, real busy

Try it now
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

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Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

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  #18  
Old 04-15-2010, 01:17 AM
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I've always thought the 617 engine would be a perfect replacement for the Ford Lehman 120hp diesels that are put in the smaller Grand Banks trawlers. Go for it..post some pics too.
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  #19  
Old 04-15-2010, 01:33 AM
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wow, not even gonna bother trying to offer any advise. Sounds like a great project. If you getting working, let us know how you did it!! (and pictures too!)
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  #20  
Old 04-15-2010, 02:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by polarisrmk View Post
Exactly the info i was looking for.... I just weighed the coupler by itself and its about 9 pound so should be close to spot on. Of course i don't need a perfect condition flywheel cause i have no clutch that needs to ride on a smooth perfect surface so maybe i could fine an old unusable one.
The problem with the 240 fw is not just the 10# lighter... it's the PLACEMENT of those 10#... look at the euro 300 fw... the extra lbs is on the very outside fringe of the fw. a ring mounted outside the clutch surface area... a 10# weight bolted to the center would be negligible increase in rotating mass.
also, on the 240 fw in a 300 motor converted to 4spd, the vibration is in the driveshaft. it needs a balanced weight like a large harmonic balancer to even out the 5th cylinder pulse.
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  #21  
Old 04-15-2010, 02:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
The problem with the 240 fw is not just the 10# lighter... it's the PLACEMENT of those 10#... look at the euro 300 fw... the extra lbs is on the very outside fringe of the fw. a ring mounted outside the clutch surface area... a 10# weight bolted to the center would be negligible increase in rotating mass.
also, on the 240 fw in a 300 motor converted to 4spd, the vibration is in the driveshaft. it needs a balanced weight like a large harmonic balancer to even out the 5th cylinder pulse.

Hopefully there wont be too much vibration because sterndrive engines are pretty much solid mounts directly to the boat .... there isnt much room for give as the drive shaft coming in from the drive must be perfectly aligned with the coupler and gimble bearing
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  #22  
Old 04-15-2010, 10:38 AM
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Remember this is a very heavy engine as well. Did you consider a volkswagon tdi diesel ? A lot lighter and smaller for a 17 foot boat. Far more fuel efficient as well.

I really think the tdi engine can product the same shaft horsepower with a chip.This may not even be required as the lighter weight may be an equivelency compensation alone.

As for a junkyard engine you are not even allowed to run before purchase. I would question the wisdom of that. Better to find a car that is not roadworthy yet that you can at least do some testing on the engine before purchase. Quite a project as well. No flywheel issues with the tdi but there will be some work because of the modern engine management system.
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  #23  
Old 04-15-2010, 12:11 PM
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As no one has mentioned either of these terms and can't figure out where the vibration comes from I am going to do what I hate, reverse engineer from another brand...

On Fieros... (I know forehead smack) the early years have the flywheels balanced to the crankshaft. On the later year the flywheel is neutrally balanced. Mixing the two doesn't end well. Is anyone aware of whether or not some mercedes flywheels are neutral or balanced to the flyweel?


Also, I too have seen 616 marinized motors, just not a 617 with a turbo.
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  #24  
Old 04-15-2010, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barry123400 View Post
Remember this is a very heavy engine as well. Did you consider a volkswagon tdi diesel ? A lot lighter and smaller for a 17 foot boat. Far more fuel efficient as well.

I really think the tdi engine can product the same shaft horsepower with a chip.This may not even be required as the lighter weight may be an equivelency compensation alone.

As for a junkyard engine you are not even allowed to run before purchase. I would question the wisdom of that. Better to find a car that is not roadworthy yet that you can at least do some testing on the engine before purchase. Quite a project as well. No flywheel issues with the tdi but there will be some work because of the modern engine management system.
TDi is too expensive for my current budget. Plus VW already makes complete marinized packages that are drop in ready for the Mercruiser drive. Ring Power sells them... so where is the adventure and fun in that?
http://www.vwmarine.com Mastercraft uses these engines in some of their tournament ski boats.

The original engine in the boat is also VERY heavy i don't know the exact weight but i will find out. They are both iron blocks and heads, Both very stout over engineered engines. The 3.0 Mercruiser engine also has a VERY HEAVY intake and exhaust manifold combo (prob double the weight of the 617 manifolds). I am sure that there isn't much of a difference in weight between the two.
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  #25  
Old 04-15-2010, 01:52 PM
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If you are worried about the heat from the turbo, just install a "Jacket" or blanket on it. Its made from fiberglass or some other non-flammable material that you can wire onto the turbo & any other hot spots you might want to cover. Don't have any links for you, do a Google search & see what you can find. Since most of the MB exhaust system is close together this would probably be the cheapest option. As for the exhaust, a marine water-injection fitting just after the turbo would keep the exhaust pipe cool. Just make sure it's "down hill" from the turbo to the exhaust outlet from the boat.

Also, see if you can find a marine heat exchanger for the cooling. DO NOT try to cool the engine only from sea water - you will quickly ruin it.

This is a cool modification! Keep us posted!
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  #26  
Old 04-15-2010, 01:55 PM
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The fun would be trying to puling it off on the cheap in my opinion. Scrounging should not be dead yet. It is harder than it used to be though.
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  #27  
Old 04-15-2010, 01:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dagObx View Post
If you are worried about the heat from the turbo, just install a "Jacket" or blanket on it. Its made from fiberglass or some other non-flammable material that you can wire onto the turbo & any other hot spots you might want to cover. Don't have any links for you, do a Google search & see what you can find. Since most of the MB exhaust system is close together this would probably be the cheapest option. As for the exhaust, a marine water-injection fitting just after the turbo would keep the exhaust pipe cool.

Also, see if you can find a marine heat exchanger for the cooling. DO NOT try to cool the engine only from sea water - you will quickly ruin it.
I did think about wrapping the exhaust and may try it but i am looking for a little bit cooler i am hoping.... yes i am aware sea water will kill the engine however i live in Utah .... only fresh water here. None of our boats have closed cooling systems here except the ones with aluminum heads and or blocks. I don't think the fresh water will hurt the 617 as it is the same material the GM engines are made of, but i have thought of using a heat exchanger if space permits doing so..
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  #28  
Old 04-15-2010, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by polarisrmk View Post
From what i have read on the manual swaps from the 240 D to the 617 there sometimes is a slight vibration because the flywheel isn't heavy enough to balance out the 5th cylinder i am assuming someone that has done a manual swap into thier 123 or 126 back me up on this.
We have a 617 in a 4 speed 240 with the 240 flywheel and there is no vibration. There are small chistle marks on all the cranks and flywheels, for 0 balance just line them up. There are some 617 powered boats around, I have a friend in Long Beach with a 41' Blue Sea trawler withg twins. Look for a heat exchanger and riser.

Dan
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  #29  
Old 04-15-2010, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DANSMB View Post
We have a 617 in a 4 speed 240 with the 240 flywheel and there is no vibration. There are small chistle marks on all the cranks and flywheels, for 0 balance just line them up. There are some 617 powered boats around, I have a friend in Long Beach with a 41' Blue Sea trawler withg twins. Look for a heat exchanger and riser.

Dan
I was thinking about adapting the mercruiser riser and elbow to the turbo outlet so that the riser would be where the exhaust cooling starts.... I am looking into the heat exchanger but i am not so sure i need one here in the fresh water.
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  #30  
Old 04-16-2010, 03:36 PM
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watching this like a hawk. A small mister pre turbo could keep temps under 150 easly. Think 70s jet boat headers
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