Ohe 82, the tierod ends have 11k miles on them and the boots are toast.
The ends are still tight.
Is rebooting possible or advised and if so where are replacement boots available?

__________________
1981 240D 143k 4 spd manual -SOLD

2004 VW Jetta TDI 5 speed 300k -still driven daily

If they are toast the probability is they have dirt in them...
So even with new boots they may not last long..

How much do new ones cost?

__________________
1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

Ends are 30-35 whole assembly 50 from fastlane

__________________
1981 240D 143k 4 spd manual -SOLD

2004 VW Jetta TDI 5 speed 300k -still driven daily

If they sell the Boots separately there is no reason not to re-boot them.

I can only remember Boots being available for the Lower Ball Joints and the Upper Control Arm Ball Joint. It may be that the Upper Control Arm Boots will fit the Tie Rod Joints.
You could Ask Phil of Fastlane

Found some generic ones on eBay listed under Tie Rod Dust Boots
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Energy-Suspension-9-13105R-Bushings-Tie-Rod-Dust-Boots_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4ceeccbc6eQQitemZ330423909486QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAc cessories

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Anybody have a loose tierod to measure for shaft and body size?

__________________
1981 240D 143k 4 spd manual -SOLD

2004 VW Jetta TDI 5 speed 300k -still driven daily

Do you know if you have a warranty on it? If you don't you check on it. I had tie rods that had a similar issue and was replace through a warranty swap.


But if not, here are the boots.

http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=0003300485

__________________
1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

Out of warranty.
I will check the link out.
Thanks
Andrew

__________________
1981 240D 143k 4 spd manual -SOLD

2004 VW Jetta TDI 5 speed 300k -still driven daily

I rebooted a tie rod end that had a cracked boot. I used one of the red urethane "performance" boots available from parts stores. It fit pretty good considering that it was probably for a Chevy. The rod end was still very tight and I will check it on occasion. I think it's worth doing if the joint is still tight.

__________________
Diesel-guy

If you get good quality boots it will be fine. I have a couple of chicken sh## rubber ones here left over from a pack that I used one out of. It failed in less than a month!!

__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

I purchased two Upper control arm boots from Phil and he sent me Genuine Mercedes Benz pieces. Was pleasantly surprised. So far so good a year later.

http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?qty=1&sku=1165860533

__________________
1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

I have a Tie Rod I can measure but it is a URO Tie Rod. Cannot say if it would be the same as a Mercedes one.

The Energy Products are made from polyurethane I would suspect that they are extremely tough compared to the Rubber boots.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

These are a cheap and easy to find option but in my, and many friends experience the urethane boots do not hold grease well. They look nice when you have poly in the whole suspension but you should keep an eye on them.

I think if you get good ones ~ genuine, you will be fine. Outside of the USA cant access fastlane.

__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

When replacing boots instead of the tie rod end, DO NOT pull them with a pickle fork. You will most likely damage the joint. Use a big hammer (more often known as a BFH.) Strike the side of the steering knuckle or center link so as to shrink the tapered hole which will push the stud out. This, of course, is after loosening the nut.

I was looking at some of the pics of the Energy Tie Rod Boots. They do not have any sort of spring clip at the bottom to squeeze them around th Tie Rod. Perhaps if Marine/Boating type Trailer Wheel Bearing Grease was used. It is thicker, has rust inhibiting chemicals and I do not think would migrate out of the joint as easily as other Grease Might.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel