My fingers have a mind of their own. They are way faster then my brain could dream of being. lol I guess that happens with 10+ years experience with PC's. I have no idea how fast I type but it's extremely too fast. I swear at times I've seen fire fly from my finger tips and melted holes in my keyboard.

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86 Mercedes 300SDL - 400k+ miles

I don't know if this helps you, but here goes.....

I run Mobil 1 in my Mercedes-Benz '99 E300TD mainly because MB came out with a bulletin that stated if you would use full-synthetic in your MB, that the engine would be 100% warranted to 150,000 miles or 10 years, which ever came first. MB had a problem with at least one lawsuit claiming that by following MB's FSS (Flexible Service Schedule) using conventional motor oil - that damage resulted from coddled oil in the crankcase. i.e. conventional motor oil was not sufficiently lubricating MB engines. My MB diesel motorcar is 10.5 years of age - but I think I will continue with my Mobil 1 regimine - just in case coddled/cottage cheesed conventional motor oil would plague my crankcase - I only drive the car 3K miles a year - I think I can afford Mobil 1 for it.

Since I only put about 3K miles a year on my '99 E300TD, it gets a Mobil 1 oil and filter change every 3-years or 10K miles. It's probably overkill to change the oil that often, but that's my comfort range with my car.

As for the Shell Rotella T 15W-40? I use it exclusively in my diesel motorcoach that I travel the country in. I change it and the oil filter every 4K to 5K miles. An oil change on my coach is 15 Qts. - and I change it every few months - I drive my coach a lot more than my Mercedes-Benz diesel motorcar.

I can see where that is a good idea to go by what Mercedes say themselves. I mean they did design the car so they should know better then anyone else what is best for it. Although sometimes promoting something like that could have been one person's idea at Mercedes and they all went with it without actually testing to back it up.

A lot of things like that I don't believe unless I see it. Any motor oil company is going to claim they are the best of the best just to get sales so yeah even though it's coming from Mercedes doesn't always mean it's correct that's for sure!

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86 Mercedes 300SDL - 400k+ miles

I use, M1 5W40 primarily because I don't want to have to think about using different oils for different seasons and climates. I have used it from about -10F to 115F without any issues.

What happened was according to the copy of the lawsuit proceedings that MBUSA mailed to me several years ago - the FSS ( Flexible Service Schedule) on cars similar to mine were supposed to measure when an oil change should take place - by means of sensors of some sort.

Well, whether it was valid or not a litigant got to MB with coddled conventional motor oil in their crankcase - with a damaged/blown engine - claiming rightly or wrongly that it was MB's fault. The litigant prevailed over MB. MB never prescribed using full-synthetic in the first place - so they realized they'd better do something or they'd be buying a lot of replacement engines for owners. MB then put out the mailer telling us owners that if you would switch or continue using full-synthetic motor oil - they would stand behind the engine for 10-yrs./150,000 miles.

11 years ago in 1999 - best I can recall when buying my MB new - we were in the throes of the green movement. It was marketing that MBs (my model anyway) didn't need to have it's oil changed until the FSS on your instrument panel notified you that it needed changing. Mind you - this was approx. 14K mile plus between oil changes - which I guess devasted some engines running conventional motor oil. That's the extent of what the source on this FSS was - extended oil usage to of course - ALL together now; "save the planet," LOL!

I reasoned that if I wasn't careful - my conventional motor oil may coddle, damaging my MB's engine - so rather than take chances - I better just spring for the full-synthetic for my Benz. I still think it's overkill, but I go 3-yrs./10K miles just to be safe. The car sits for literally weeks w/o being driven - which in itself using full-synthetic is a problem on start-up potentially because the oil is so slick - none remains above where gravity pulls it after one month just sitting.

An aside - I use Mobil 1 in the generator of my diesel-motorcoach. The manufacturer (Onan) recommends starting and letting the generator run 30 minutes a month minimum, under 50% or more load to keep it exercised - if you will. I am derelict to the extent that sometimes I go 6-weeks between the exercising of the genny. Here again - it is a negative influence in the starting process of the engine with Mobil 1 - because the oil has completely withdrawn in the time frame of one month plus.

All things considered, if I used one vehicle often - I would definitely stick with Rotella T 15W-40.

That all makes a lot of sense and is definitely something to consider. I do appreciate the responses. Very informative and I'm glad you did.

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86 Mercedes 300SDL - 400k+ miles

The selling point on the full-synthetics was and still is just this; under heavy service/usage. Now it is up to you to determine just what heavy service usage is?

Is it extremely cold or hot weather where you will be using full-synthetic?
Do you necessarily want or need extended intervals between oil changes?

As far as I know - those two preceeding questions are the only valid Qs for using/considering full-synthetic.

I will say this; using full-synthetic motor oil - one could probably be very safe in changing their MB's oil filter every 10K miles, and replacing the Mobil 1 every 20K to 25K miles. Just adding more synthetic oil as needed between changes.

I am certain there are 18-wheeler tractors that go about 20K miles between oil changes - what I do not know is if they change their oil filters more often than that.....

You (or anyone else with a Diesel [of ANY sort Aero,Marine or Land] ) Runs
The Shell Rotella products for the ADDITIVE packages !!!
For the Cost, the Shell products exceed all but the Especial Brands in additives!

The Zinc package ,Alone, is a major inducement to use the Rotella.

I vacillate between the Redline and Shell's 5W40 Synthetic...
Shell's 5W40 Synthetic in "Winter" (2.5 months of 32 degree weather)
The Redline offers me a complete Synthetic with 15W40 Viscosity.(In Summer)

Neither, over 3K mileage changes.

Self Confessed Lubricant Fanatic.

Oil's Cheap...

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

Most of the bigger companies(werner,swift etc) are on a 10k,20k pm schedule. 10k grease and 20k oil.

When I still had my road tractor running full synthetic, I changed the oil filters @25k. I changed the bypass filters at 50k. All i ever did was get an oil sample at the 25k filter change. When I got rid of the truck it had 1,234,xxx on it. the oil had been changed 4 times. I bought it with 11 miles on speedometer.

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86 300SDL. 250,xxx on #14 Head. One eye always on temp gauge.. Cruising towards 300K

In a nutshell pick one brand of dino oil and stick with it. Whether its delo,delvac,rotella etc. It all comes down to personal choice.

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86 300SDL. 250,xxx on #14 Head. One eye always on temp gauge.. Cruising towards 300K

I used to use Shell Rotella in my Jeep Comanche with a 4.0L. It used oil, not any fualt of the Rotella. I think it is very good oil. I use synthetics in all of my other cars, Ford Contours. I run them 7,500 miles between oil changes. I do see a 2 mpg increase. I had 216,000 miles on my '96 Contour. The inside of the engine was clean. I have see pictures of another engine that was run on conventional oil, that was nearly as clean.
I am using NAPA conventional 15w-40 diesel oil, in my 240D. Partially because it is cheaper, and I am doing an engine clean with Auto/RX. I don't know if after that I'll use synthetics or not. There are some factors that I consider. One is oil usage or leakage. If the engine leaks oil, then with synthetics, I hear, that that can get worst. Also, as has been mentioned before, soot load. I have changed my oil at 3K in the 240D. The oil looked thick with soot. I didn't have it analized, so I don't know the actually %. I do have to worry about winter's cold where I am at. I did take the 240D off the road, mainly due to salt and rust. I don't have any serious rust, and I want to keep it that way.
I do remeber the MB oil siute. A friend owned an MB under that. He said they would even change his oil until his oil light came on. He was happy with the 'extended' warranty.
Tom

When you say that an oil has been around a long time, successful, and therefore is good, know that Mobil 1 full-synthetic oil has been around since IIRC 1974. Mobil Delvac (dino) has been a premium competitor to Shell Rotella for decades, and popular in over-the-road and construction equipment, marine, etc. All very successful. Holland Motor Express started running Mobil 1 synthetic (aka: Mobil Delvac 1) in their OTR trucks in 1979 IIRC, with less engine failure related downtime, better fuel mileage, extended drain intervals, and longer engine life.

So the original question was Shell or Mobil synthetic? Mobil 1 TD&T / Delvac 1 is a class IV synthetic, from a synthetic base-stock, Shell Rotella syn is a class III synthetic from a dino base-stock. Both very good oils, but this is the reason that the Mobil oil costs more; it starts out with a more expensive base-stock.

This choice is much like the other oil choices: Cheap no-brand oil or premium-brand oil? Dino oil, blend, or synthetic oil? Premium or not?

All levels of oil (and thus their prices) offer some advantages, you have to draw your line where you are happy. My 35-year experience with Mobil, Amsoil, and Red-Line synthetic oils has been a good one, changing over 100,000mile cars and motorhomes as well as starting off new with synthetics, never a bad experience. The advantages are: cleaner engine inside, better cold pump-up (faster oil pressure), better fuel mileage, lower oil consumption, better boost/EGT numbers (more power), less used oil into the environment (extended change intervals), and long-lasting engines even though most of them have been pushed to the limit & red-lined on a daily basis for in some cases, over 200,000miles (gassers) and ??? miles/hours (diesels).

If you, as many here, choose any good quality oil, change it at proper intervals, and drive off into the sunset you should be happy. If you choose to be a lubricant junkie like several more of us here, you'll also be happy. Most any oil that meets your manual's specs is fine, and your OM603.961 burns much cleaner than some respondants' 61x engines so if you drive lots of highway, extended-drain intervals might be a possibility for you also.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

The Rotella Synthetic is the same weight and costs about 30% less....

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

I've used both, if I can't find M1 I usually pick up Rotella. I pay about $24/gallon for M1; so it comes out to about $0.01/mile. A 30% savings would be $0.003/mile, so the cost is essentially the same.

Doesn't really matter. Just use a quality oil and change it regularly. Both are good and both do the job.

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92 300D 2.5L OM602 OBK #59