Not if the adjustment specification is for a cold engine. What spec did you use?

More than you ever wanted to know on the topic.

Valve adjustment OM617 FYI.
Valve adjustment OM615, 616, 617 FYI.

X2 with tango !!!
If the people at Mercedes who designed & specified the clearance for these motors had wanted them set hot, they would have specified the appropriate gap for a hot motor. They probably have more experience with these motors than any one on this forum. I have noticed that the gap tends to become less as the motor cools down. Setting the gap at say 80C may result in too little or no gap at 0C and contribute to starting difficulties.
Mercedes solved the problem with the 60x motor ~ no gap to set !!

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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

umm they're are valve clearance specs for a hot motor....

__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

whunter, you say over and over in this thread that the valves should be adjusted cold, but in the big thread on valve adjustment, you list consistently the hot adjustment clearances... which is best?

My 617 book doesnt say anything about adjusting hot or cold. It just gives the gauge tolerance for both hot or cold. I always adjust when the engine is at 60C.


Anyone know an easy way to adjust the second to last valve? I usually get in there with a standard 14 to turn the nut so I can get my wrenches on it. It just seems like there should be an easier way

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1981 300SD 512k OM603

I would say the most accurate method is with a HOT engine... Caveat, one would need to work quickly to adjust all the valves and not allow the engine to cool.

The idea is to adjust the valves at their operating temps, typically one end of the head will run hotter due to coolant flow (enters at one end, and exits at the other). This delta in temps could cause uneven expansion rates of the valve train...

However, for the casual DIYier I'd say doing them COLD is better since there is no rush.

Like Junkman said, you have to be mighty quick to get them done hot, and, you either have to have ceramic hands and fingers or you have to be a lot more dainty about how you do things than I am. I do them cold. No rush and no pain. Other than the regular skin scuffs and scrapes with the occasional drawing of blood.

Jim

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Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

Cold adjustment is the easiest, and most consistant.

I agree !

The 617.95 Engine Manual provides a spec for both warm and cold. But it doesn't recommend one option over the other.

the same goes for triumphs. all specs are set while the engine is cold.

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1985 300TD Turbo Diesel Wagon
273,000 miles

the car is running well, took it to a very experienced mercedes mechanic who said the engine sounded just right. however, he was of the school that says to adjust the valves cold. so far, in my enquiries, here is the score:

hot: two diesel mechanics say do them hot.

cold: one mechanic said cold and of course those posts made here on the forum.

the maintenance on these cars never ends. at present, I'm experiencing mechanical burnout. time for a stiff drink and a couple of advil for my painful back and hands.....

Below is a thumbnail of the sticker on my car.
It shows a Cold or Hot Valve Asjustment specs.

I believe this gives me a choice of one or the other.
Adjusting the Valves cold or doing it hot are both correct.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Yes both hot and cold numbers are there.

The hot ones are for shops that dont have time to let the motor cool off to do them right.

The cold ones are for those of us that do things right.

__________________
1985 300D 198K sold
1982 300D 202K
1989 300E 125K
1992 940T

"If you dont have time to do it safely, you dont have time to do it"

"The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not."

That is warm, NOT hot adjustment...
45 C = 118 F
The specification does not mention this adjustment must be completed within 35 minutes at ambient 70 F, and can NOT be used below ambient 45 F due to excess heat loss..

FYI:
Hot adjustment would be 80 C = 176 F
It is Not possible to maintain that temperature without running the engine after every valve, and/or using an external heater with pump...