Timing the injection pump is pretty straightforward. Basically on your model a tool inserts into a port on the injection pump and locks it at a certain position. The tool is fairly inexpensive or you may be able to borrow one.

The total sequence is really not too bad. Go in to the archives and check it out. In a way it is the easiest portion of your current situation.

The subject is in the archives, but basically you take it apart at compression TDC, put the new pump on in the same position, and there is a bladed tool that screws into the pump to hold it at compressoin TDC.

The complete procedure is here somewhere.

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

my plan is to use the the 3.ol block, 3.5 liter head and camshaft with the injectors and glow plugs(which are all new), 3.5l inject pump, and lots o blood sweat and tears.

where do i get the ip tool? and does anyone have the thread that shows how to set it? i will try to take pics of the whole process.

how do the washers from the oil pump get passed the screen?

how do you get it back on the sprocket if the sproket only goes on one way? wher do i get a tool?

one think to mention. when i rebuilt the head with in 100 miles there was considerable black soot in the crossover tube and intake within 50miles or so of driving.

1) Oil & soot in the intake is basically normal - I wouldn't worry about it, especially since you're swapping engines, and possibly fixing the 3.5L block.

2) The procedure for the IP R&R is in the factory service manual - click here. You need the IP lock tool, and the timing "basket" which keeps the timing device in place while the pump is removed. Replace the O-ring seal between the block and IP, and while the pump is off the engine, you'd be crazy not to replace all the external seals (especially the bottom cover seal, and rear governor / ELR gaskets). The crank is not set at TDC for this, it is set at 14° ATDC, as per the factory procedure.

3) The IP lock tool and basket are available from any Mercedes dealership. Don't buy the aftermarket ones on eBay, they cost just as much (if not more) and don't always fit properly. Click here for a photo of the lock tool.

4) If you are installing a 3.0L engine, I would use the 3.0L pump as well. The pump should match the engine displacement, although it wouldn't be a huge difference if you kept the 3.5L pump with the 3.0 block.

5) If the block is good, I'd fix the 3.5L engine and re-install it when it's all done. The additional torque from the larger displacement is nice. You may have to replace two pistons & rods though, even if the cylinder bores are ok. I would install 6 brand-new rods, the updated style should not bend again in the future, so it should be a permanent fix.

6) You MUST have the factory service manual to do all this work - here is a link to the W124 manual, however all the OM603 engine documents also cover the W140/3.5L engine, so yes these procedures are all applicable:
http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/Index/602_603index.html

__________________
Dave
Boise, ID
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

just ordered the lock tool from ebay last night, didnt know about the basket. i should go to the dealer for that? also who sells the reseal kit for the ip pump? mine is clean and dry. i thought the lines on the 3.0 are different.

The basket is a dealer item, but cheap - under $5.

There is no reseal kit for the pump - you have to order each of the seals separtely. Also, the side cover seal is different depending on if the pump has a steel or aluminum side plate. Here's the part list for the 3.0L pump:

601-238-07-80 --- Vacuum pump gasket to block (not included in head gasket set - install without any sealant!)

013-997-81-48 --- I/P ELR O-ring
001-074-43-80 --- I/P rear governor gasket
004-997-46-40 --- I/P bottom cover O-ring
001-074-11-80 --- I/P side plate gasket (for sheet-metal cover only)
001-074-37-80 --- I/P side plate gasket (for aluminum cover only)
010-997-56-48 --- I/P vacuum shutoff valve O-ring
009-997-81-48 --- I/P shutoff lever O-ring
013-997-09-47 --- I/P front shaft seal
012-997-83-48 --- I/P to block O-ring

will these be the same for the 3.5l pump and do you have a part # for the basket?

Should be the same for both, but again you need to check the type of side cover on each... the 3.0 pump is most likely sheet metal, the 3.5 pump may be aluminum.

The part # for the basket tool is in the FSM procedure in the previous post.

You'll need the 3.5 oil filter housing on the 3.0 block so the oil cooler lines fit properly.

You should keep the 3.5 oil pump and windage tray unless you want to confirm that the 3.0 oil pump pickup is where it should be relative to the bottom of the 3.5 sump.

Use the injector lines [edit] that came with whichever head you use.

While everything's apart, consider converting the turbo from vacuum actuated wastegate to the more conventional boost actuated wastegate. There's a long discussion in a single thread in the archives with rhymes, reasons and part numbers.

I ran a 3.5 IP with a 3.0 block in a 93 SD and didn't have any problems since I don't rev past 4000 rpm. I got ~25 mpg city which I have trouble matching with a lighter 87 300D. Dave and Jeff, won't a 3.5 tranny be calibrated for the 3.5 rev limit?

Sixto
87 300D

thanks for the info i really am trying to get all the info to do a good job and do it right. i shoud use the fly wheel and balencer from the 3.0l?

The rev limit is higher for the 3.5 in the W140 (OM603.971) than the 3.5 in the W126 (OM603.970), and only IIRC 150rpm lower than the 3.0L engine (OM603.96x), I'd still use the IP from the 3.5 though, probably has a little more enrichment at low end for the larger displacement (I will verify some day).

Great point on matching the pan and windage tray to the oil pump pickup, could be different from the 126 (donor) to the 140 (reciprient) car.

Your 3.0L engine originally had a basket installed behind the vacuum pump, if you still have it, use it to install the timing device / IP as dave mentioned above.

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

the side cover on the 3.5l ip is aluminum about 1.5in tall by 4in wide. i stripped the 3.0l to the bare block w/crank and rods and pistons. also the oilpump is still there but i will be changing it. how do the washers on the pump get through the screen and plug the pump up.

yes it did have the basket, actually looked brand new.