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  #31  
Old 12-01-2011, 01:46 PM
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I tried it again this morning and I observed the same thing I've been saying. The front/left chamber was drained as I bled the rear brakes' fluid. Whether I'm doing the job right or not is irrelevant (please everyone, look elsewhere for advice on that), the point being is this is my observation of what chamber drains when I bleed the rear brakes.

Once air is in the system, it's near impossible to use any vacuum to get the fluid out - so I've ordered a Motive power bleeder to push it out through the cylinder reservoir end.

I also tried not using jackstands on the rear (as you recommended) and it made it harder to refill the fluid. It kept spilling out the top and was harder to fill the other chamber. I would recommend rear jackstands (ie keeping the car level). It may not be the case with all cars and all years, but it's what I had to do to get it done right.

I've noticed between my 83 and 84 300SD that there are several minor tweaks in various places, such as the oil filter housing has top bolts welded onto the housing in my 84 but in my 83, it uses a double-sided threaded bolt with two nuts on each end. If you're right in saying that the left/front chamber is for the front brakes (on the vehicles you're familiar with), then I suspect maybe Mercedes made a minor redesign somewhere along the line. Maybe we're both right.
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  #32  
Old 12-01-2011, 01:53 PM
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Brian, I am about 3 hours from you in South Jersey (close to Philly), and I'd be glad for you to stop by one weekend if you can to show me what you're talking about.

I'd be more than happy to delete all the posts if you can prove me wrong. And feed you a meal, too.

Last edited by tomas_maly; 12-01-2011 at 02:35 PM.
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  #33  
Old 12-01-2011, 08:29 PM
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we always had good luck bleeding the air out of a brake system by slightly loosening the nipple at the caliper, fitting a hose over the nipple that is attached to an oil squirt gun filled with brake fluid and pumping away until no air bubbles appear in the reservoir anymore. no peddle pumping needed. this system has never let me down even on some big complicated stuff. haven't tried it on a mb but can't imagine that it wouldn't work

thanks, hunt
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  #34  
Old 12-02-2011, 12:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhunt253 View Post
we always had good luck bleeding the air out of a brake system by slightly loosening the nipple at the caliper, fitting a hose over the nipple that is attached to an oil squirt gun filled with brake fluid and pumping away until no air bubbles appear in the reservoir anymore. no peddle pumping needed. this system has never let me down even on some big complicated stuff. haven't tried it on a mb but can't imagine that it wouldn't work

thanks, hunt

I think I will give this a try. Do you have to syphon some fluid out of the master ocassionally as the level rises? Not a big deal though.

I have had fair luck with straight gravity bleeding as well on occassion.
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  #35  
Old 03-22-2014, 06:37 PM
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I seem to have a brake leak some where. I believe it is the front passenger side. When I take the tire off and have some one press on the brakes while it is running I can turn the brake rotor with little to no resistance. But on the driver side it is impossible to turn it when the brake is pressed. There is no sign of fluid by the caliber's or anything. But the back brake fluid reservoir is loosing fluid. (I've been told the rear reservoir is for the front brakes). Also it seems I gained a new issue when the brakes quit well there just really soft and go to the floor now. Also when I turn the key off it does not want to shut off before it would shut off right away no problem. Do I have a bad brake cylinder and its leaking into the brake booster causing bad vacuum? There looks like there may be a slight possibility that where the hard line comes out from the frame on the passenger side it looks like it might of been wet but it's kind of hard to tell and I cant see how that line runs back to the master cylinder. I'm leaning toward brake master cylinder because It seems I've lost vacuum pressure but if I pull a vacuum line off I still fill sucking. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
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  #36  
Old 03-25-2014, 11:56 AM
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Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by iceman104 View Post
I seem to have a brake leak some where. I believe it is the front passenger side. When I take the tire off and have some one press on the brakes while it is running I can turn the brake rotor with little to no resistance. But on the driver side it is impossible to turn it when the brake is pressed. There is no sign of fluid by the caliber's or anything. But the back brake fluid reservoir is loosing fluid. (I've been told the rear reservoir is for the front brakes). Also it seems I gained a new issue when the brakes quit well there just really soft and go to the floor now. Also when I turn the key off it does not want to shut off before it would shut off right away no problem. Do I have a bad brake cylinder and its leaking into the brake booster causing bad vacuum? There looks like there may be a slight possibility that where the hard line comes out from the frame on the passenger side it looks like it might of been wet but it's kind of hard to tell and I cant see how that line runs back to the master cylinder. I'm leaning toward brake master cylinder because It seems I've lost vacuum pressure but if I pull a vacuum line off I still fill sucking. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
It sounds like your calipers need to be replaced or rebuilt, also the Master Cylinder has FAILED = leaking into the booster.


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  #37  
Old 03-28-2014, 08:34 AM
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Does anyone know what line runs to passenger front brake. There are more lines on this abs box but there on the other side anyone have a good diagram? Thanks
http://s29.postimg.org/nz9m94jl3/brake_mb.jpg
Hope to fix car today with much help.
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  #38  
Old 03-28-2014, 08:34 PM
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Untitled Document


Consult the FSM, maybe you can find something helpful there.

I tried to upload 42-700, file too large.
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  #39  
Old 03-28-2014, 09:08 PM
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On many MB's I've found it necessary to to bleed with the two man method and unless the pedal pusher is good sized and pressing hard on the pedal you might very well need the engine running.
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