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#1
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Opening Hood Difficulties
When I try to "pop" my hood (by pulling the handle inside the car) it works only intermittantly. Once I get the hood "popped" I have no problems opening it.
I tried to figure out what was wrong, but can't. Does anyone have any tips or tricks that I can use to fix the problem?
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Big Fred (RIP Sept '10) 83 300SD Turbo Diesel (aka "Rocky") (RIP April '10 - Accident) 86 Chevy M1009 CUCV (Blazer) - 6.2L Diesel (aka "Ogre") |
#2
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you can adjust the cable tension of the mechanism, and oil the latch in the engine compartment. Is the bonnet handle really tough to pull or is it easy and feel like there's lots of play?
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1985 300TD Turbo Diesel Wagon 273,000 miles |
#3
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Overall it is pretty easy to pull. Sometimes it takes three or four pulls to get it to open, sometimes it only half opens.
How do you adjust it?
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Big Fred (RIP Sept '10) 83 300SD Turbo Diesel (aka "Rocky") (RIP April '10 - Accident) 86 Chevy M1009 CUCV (Blazer) - 6.2L Diesel (aka "Ogre") |
#4
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Is everything properly lubed under the hood?
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1976 240D 1976 240D parts car 1970 220D daily driver |
#5
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Lube
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Big Fred (RIP Sept '10) 83 300SD Turbo Diesel (aka "Rocky") (RIP April '10 - Accident) 86 Chevy M1009 CUCV (Blazer) - 6.2L Diesel (aka "Ogre") |
#6
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LOL
One thing you can do when you DO have it open... look very carefully at the place it attaches to the opening latch... then look at that from through the front of the grill with it closed... you can make a puller from coat hanger wire to keep in the trunk for the day your cable breaks.....
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#7
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You need something stronger than coat hanger, at least I did, maybe mine was gummed up. I had to use a hook made of welding rod to release the latch.
Look up under where the cable comes in under the hood. Theres an adjustment there. Try that
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#8
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After spending an hour or so checking everything, it appears that the hood latch puller cable is loose. I tried adjusting it, but it still appears to be loose.
Does anyone have any pictures of how the cable is supposed to be routed? It cuts across the inside corner of the engine compartment. And when you pull the latch inside the car, most of the movement is in that corner. Any suggestions?
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Big Fred (RIP Sept '10) 83 300SD Turbo Diesel (aka "Rocky") (RIP April '10 - Accident) 86 Chevy M1009 CUCV (Blazer) - 6.2L Diesel (aka "Ogre") |
#9
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oh, it sounds like you need a few cable ties to lock the cable against the fender.
the outer jacket needs to stay still, and the inner pulls the release. does anybody have a picture of the routing of their cable showing where it should be tied down? I'll get one later today if I have time if nobody does it first.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#10
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Yes, please. This would be very helpful.
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Big Fred (RIP Sept '10) 83 300SD Turbo Diesel (aka "Rocky") (RIP April '10 - Accident) 86 Chevy M1009 CUCV (Blazer) - 6.2L Diesel (aka "Ogre") |
#11
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Unfortunately, I have spent a lot of time trying to fix the hood cable/release myself. Here's the best advice I can offer; Order the cable from an internet site($11-$13) and prepare to replace the cable. It's fairly easy to do and you will understand the whole mechansim by checking out the new cable you are getting ready to install. No special tools required. A 10mm wrench and a screwdriver.
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1983 300 Turbo-"Nora" 1983 240D Auto "Lucia"-slowest on earth-1st love 1985 300 Turbo-Blue Goose-slowly plucking parts http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o...ly15/mbsig.jpg |
#12
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The cable itself is working and intact. When the lever under the dash is pulled, most of the "force" of the pull is directed by making the cable cut across the engine compartment rather than pulling the latches. It took me a little while to trace the cable, but I understand how it works now.
If anyone could post a pic of how the cable is attached to the engine compartment (where it is attached and how it is routed), I think I can fix it.
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Big Fred (RIP Sept '10) 83 300SD Turbo Diesel (aka "Rocky") (RIP April '10 - Accident) 86 Chevy M1009 CUCV (Blazer) - 6.2L Diesel (aka "Ogre") |
#13
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My cable is basically routed as stated. I was looking for pictures to show how it is secured along the routing.
Where is the "black plastic security cover" located?
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Big Fred (RIP Sept '10) 83 300SD Turbo Diesel (aka "Rocky") (RIP April '10 - Accident) 86 Chevy M1009 CUCV (Blazer) - 6.2L Diesel (aka "Ogre") |
#14
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The security cover is probably for w123 models, w126 might have had something different (not sure if the left or right side is what the cable pulls open).
I have put this project off for so long... sigh.
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http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/7...144c3fc1dc.jpg |
#15
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Please, Please, Please . . A picture of the cable routing inside the engine compartment in a W126.
I really need to see where the attachment points are . . .
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Big Fred (RIP Sept '10) 83 300SD Turbo Diesel (aka "Rocky") (RIP April '10 - Accident) 86 Chevy M1009 CUCV (Blazer) - 6.2L Diesel (aka "Ogre") |
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