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  #16  
Old 05-10-2010, 04:18 PM
oso oso is offline
'87 300TD
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 189
OK, I will get the read from the correct line as soon as I get back to the car. What is the expected read ?

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  #17  
Old 05-10-2010, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by oso View Post
OK, I will get the read from the correct line as soon as I get back to the car. What is the expected read ?
It should start out fairly high...........15" or so...........and get proportionally less as the pedal is pressed further down. The gauge must be observed while driving the vehicle and the various vacuum levels noted during various operating modes of the vehicle.
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  #18  
Old 05-10-2010, 04:58 PM
oso oso is offline
'87 300TD
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 189
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
It should start out fairly high...........15" or so...........and get proportionally less as the pedal is pressed further down. The gauge must be observed while driving the vehicle and the various vacuum levels noted during various operating modes of the vehicle.
Thank you for all your help so far. Sorry about the initial confusion- if I only knew how to read... Bottom of the transducer is marked "VCV" for the line in question.....
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  #19  
Old 05-10-2010, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by oso View Post
Thank you for all your help so far. Sorry about the initial confusion- if I only knew how to read... Bottom of the transducer is marked "VCV" for the line in question.....
That's the line.........put a gauge into that line with a T.........and watch the gauge while you drive it.
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  #20  
Old 05-10-2010, 05:15 PM
oso oso is offline
'87 300TD
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 189
Will report back.
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  #21  
Old 05-10-2010, 07:41 PM
oso oso is offline
'87 300TD
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 189
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
It should start out fairly high...........15" or so...........and get proportionally less as the pedal is pressed further down. The gauge must be observed while driving the vehicle and the various vacuum levels noted during various operating modes of the vehicle.

OK- 23 in/Hg coming into VCV, 3 in/Hg going out. Pulled the vacuum on the VCV and it is not holding. Please advise. Thank you.
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  #22  
Old 05-10-2010, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by oso View Post
OK- 23 in/Hg coming into VCV, 3 in/Hg going out. Pulled the vacuum on the VCV and it is not holding. Please advise. Thank you.
Unless you have a leak that is downstream of your T, the VCV is NG.

Connect the vacuum gauge directly to the output of the VCV, instead of using the T...........see what you get when you drive it.
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  #23  
Old 05-10-2010, 09:18 PM
oso oso is offline
'87 300TD
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 189
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
Unless you have a leak that is downstream of your T, the VCV is NG.

Connect the vacuum gauge directly to the output of the VCV, instead of using the T...........see what you get when you drive it.
I will do that test tomorrow (getting dark already). Is there anything that can be fixed on that valve? Are they pretty expensive?
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  #24  
Old 05-10-2010, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by oso View Post
I will do that test tomorrow (getting dark already). Is there anything that can be fixed on that valve? Are they pretty expensive?
Don't know if anyone has successfully fixed one of them............and, yep, they're pricey.
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  #25  
Old 05-10-2010, 09:45 PM
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I thought VCV's weren't even available anymore? Or is that only on 123's?
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  #26  
Old 05-11-2010, 09:18 AM
oso oso is offline
'87 300TD
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 189
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Originally Posted by kerry View Post
I thought VCV's weren't even available anymore? Or is that only on 123's?
Apparently you can still get them ifor w124 f you have about $160 to blow... I need to take the bad one off the IP and take a good look. I'm hoping that maybe there is some kind of "stuck" part that makes it think the pedal is to the metal and the "controlled" leak is to the max. Lets hope it is not a PITA to dismantle....
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  #27  
Old 05-12-2010, 11:40 AM
oso oso is offline
'87 300TD
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: San Antonio, TX
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OK, I have done it: VCV valve taken apart as per very helpful DIY aricle by sixto. The tiny rubber pad that comes up against the metal orifice providing vacuum source developed a hole in the center. Unlike sixto, I was not observant enough and lost one of the springs from the valve assembly (the bigger one). Unless I find it, my success wil be partial: I will know why the valve was bad, what I might have done it to fix it, and than get a new one since I lost one of the parts. So, anyone afflicted with the bad VCV valve follow sixto's DIY "how to" write up and you can save some serious money if you are more careful than than I was.
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  #28  
Old 05-13-2010, 11:00 AM
oso oso is offline
'87 300TD
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 189
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
Don't know if anyone has successfully fixed one of them............and, yep, they're pricey.
Last night I got a used VCV valve for $60 and it seems to work great:14 in. output. Over the weekend I'll try to get the read under the load for my own curiosity but the hard shift is the thing of the past! Thanks again for your guidance.
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  #29  
Old 05-13-2010, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by oso View Post
Last night I got a used VCV valve for $60 and it seems to work great:14 in. output. Over the weekend I'll try to get the read under the load for my own curiosity but the hard shift is the thing of the past! Thanks again for your guidance.
Excellent. Price for a replacement VCV: $60.

Smooth shifts through all gears: PRICELESS.

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