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#1
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300SDL hard shift
'87 300SDL with 104,000 miles. No flaring but hard shifts (see whiplash) first to second and second to third. Third to 4th is tolerable. If I'm nailing it from a dead stop it will squwak the tires between first and second and almost squwak 2nd to 3rd.
Pretty sure this is vacuum related but looking for some been there done that. What would be a punchlist to replace in terms of vacuum bits and cables? Or am I barking up the wrong tree? Thanks!
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"Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work" - Thomas Edison- 1979 300SD 1975 450SL 2014 Ram Cummins Megacab (tow rig) |
#2
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All your answers are probably in here...
It's CRITICAL... how you set your transmission's vacuum system on your diesel MBZ... This thread schooled me on our transmissions and now I can get 'em running well like I'm a pro. I've even amazed some of my pro mechanic friends -- all due to this very thread.
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____________ 1998 E300 +310,000K1996 E300 +460,000K |
#3
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Mine shifts hard because my vacuum control valve is shot, but that link and the articles in the prior post are very good reads.
What he talks about, taking the trans in for repair, frightens me because around here that's the type of "service" if you can call it that, that one typically gets, and I would prefer to diagnose problems myself instead of letting "newbs" take a shot at it without any decent background. my .02 steve a
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Steve A 92 W140 OM603 97 VW Jetta TDI 90 Passat variant TDI 6 speed MT 94 Chevy K1500 6.5TD 05 E320 CDI + others |
#4
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Most of the problems due to harsh shifts on the SDL are traced to a vacuum leak. The leak is usually related to the EGR system and/or the ARV system (if present) on the right side of the engine.
Find the vacuum pump and follow the small line out of the pump to the valve cover. You'll find a five way connector. The supply line and four consumers. Find the two lines that go to the right side of the vehicle and pull them from the five way connector. Plug those two ports (or get a three way "F" connector) and take it for a drive. I'll bet your problem goes away. If it doesn't, post again on this thread and I'll trace it further with you. |
#5
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Thanks guys. As a preventative I ordered up a new vacuum pump and a little while back got your "kit" Brian to remove the EGR for testing purposes. I'll review the thread links and hopefully the cumulative effect of dealing with a new VP and EGR will take care of it. If there are vacuum modules on the trans I should replace I want to try to get the whole shootin match done at one time. Now that the weather has turned I can actually spend some quality time outside with the car (although this last weekend sucked). Thanks again and will post back with progress.
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"Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work" - Thomas Edison- 1979 300SD 1975 450SL 2014 Ram Cummins Megacab (tow rig) |
#6
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I've done five of these transmissions (two 617 SDs and three 603 SDLs) and have managed to get all operating as if they were brand new. All had vacuum leak issues (usually multiple) in the engine bays. Never had to mess with vacuum modulators or controls integral to the transmissions themselves.
Listen to Brain Carlton and do what he says. He knows.
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____________ 1998 E300 +310,000K1996 E300 +460,000K |
#7
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Intend to! I've read various threads on what vacuum lines can be removed permanently. Since I'm removing the EGR for testing purposes might I be able to take this opportunity to clean up the engine bay a tad?
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"Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work" - Thomas Edison- 1979 300SD 1975 450SL 2014 Ram Cummins Megacab (tow rig) |
#8
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Quote:
Like Brian said, just get rid of all the lines on the right side of the vehicle. Take of the EGR and block off the ports. Nice and neat.
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____________ 1998 E300 +310,000K1996 E300 +460,000K |
#9
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Will do Lux/Brian. The project is on this weekend's to-do list (now that Mother's Day servitude is complete!)
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"Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work" - Thomas Edison- 1979 300SD 1975 450SL 2014 Ram Cummins Megacab (tow rig) |
#10
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one small point in defense of dealer techs: MB gives NO training on the older trannys to their techs. only new vehicles are covered. this is very frustrating to the techs as well as customers.
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1984 300TD "MAX" 303K+ still going... fast '70 Chevelle 200k+ home built Shovelhead chopper |
#11
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Reporting back...
Per Brian's advice removed the two vacuum lines at the "5" junction tee off the VP and inserted the wondertool "golf tees" into the junction. It is much better but still a prounounced clunk between 1 & 2 and to a lesser extent 2 & 3. I nailed it from a dead stop and was still able to squawk the tires between 1 & 2 (cool when I was 19, not so cool at 46). Any further suggestions on smoothing out these shifts. Could the history of these hard shifts (I've only had the car since December, it has 104k original on it as of today) have bullocksed the diff? TIA
__________________
"Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work" - Thomas Edison- 1979 300SD 1975 450SL 2014 Ram Cummins Megacab (tow rig) |
#12
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Quote:
Make sure to check it very hot with the vehicle running in neutral. It's not easy to make that check due to fluid accumulating on the stick. If you add any...........be very careful...........a little bit goes a long way. If you overfill it, you'll be there all day getting it back down. And, no, you cannot leave it overfilled.............. |
#13
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Quote:
If you really want to get that great car shifting like it should, you need to read that thread I posted well (or search for one of Brian's 603 vacuum help threads), then read it again, then get a mightyvac. I don't know of any other way to do it. Not trying to be a hard ass or a dick, it's just that I've banged my head enough on these cars that I've figured out to whom to listen on the forum for the proper advice. (For instance, I bought my '86 two years ago for $350 with a toasted transmission, hard brake pedal, very loud vibration from the engine. I bought that car because I knew from my experience with these cars and the priceless advice found here on the forum that the tranny was indeed toasted, the brakes were a simple vacuum problem and the vibration was shot motor mounts. Last month I finally got around to swapping out the transmission, replaced the motor mounts and fixed the vacuum leak that was affecting the brakes. I then found that the car had very low power. I knew, once again from lots of research on this forum, that it was a clogged switchover valve. Bypassed that and she went like a scalded kitty-cat.) Oh, and FWIW -- my '82, '86 and '87 all slammed very hard changing gears and probably had been for many, many years. Once I got all the vacuum leaks sorted out, the transmissions shifted like butter and the differentials were fine.
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____________ 1998 E300 +310,000K1996 E300 +460,000K |
#14
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Brian,
Any concerns keeping this configuration - with the two tees plugging the right two consuming vacuum lines? Will damage/throw anything? Im shifting like a dream and have power to boot! EGR is for emissions, correct? I seem to look better out the rear after this adjustment. THanks again PC |
#15
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Quote:
No concerns at all. I like the three way F connector as a permanent fix. The golf tees look a bit ridiculous other than for testing purposes. EGR is used to control NOx emissions. It doesn't affect the smoke. |
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