hey i bought a 240d about a week ago and i have just a few seemingly minor problems i was wondering if you guys could help me with.
1. does anyones cruise control work? i would really love toget mine working
2. a way to keep it from running hot in stop and go traffic and it runs about 10c hotter with a/c regardless of speed. if i could get a idea of what coolants supposed to be in there and the ratio it would be a start
3. it starts out in the granny gear until 3-4mph, is there a way to bypass and start in second?
4. other then that shes great! thank you in advance for any and all advice. wayne

I suggest you purchase a Haynes manual or a FSM for basic questions. If you would organize your post with your numbers lined up at the left or perhaps separated into paragraphs it would be a lot easier to read.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Need temperatures indicated on gauge. If well within reason no issue really.

The cruise controls are perhaps problamatic on 123s. I do not expect to find them working in general when I look at a car. There are a few good posts dealing with them.

Just remember to follow the proceedure with the activator when dealing with the cruise control amplifier. . A faulty activator can damage a cruise amplifier. Also there is a vaccum cruise control actuator and an electric actuator depending on the year of your 240d.

I always start in first but because of the robust clutch and low gearing second gear starts might be okay on flat ground. It will stress or wear the clutch surface a little more though.

yea i know mechanical issues on american cars but this is different. i am most wondering about the cruise control. nothing on it works and i know this is common, but i just gotta hav my cruise control

thank you barry, and its a 1980. and as far as temp goes it get just under 110C. and does anyone have the layout to the cruise control vacuum system?

Not losing coolant with a cast iron block and head would not disturb me too much. Could be a radiator getting a little tired with age. Or the air conditioning condensor all littered up.

I would check the actual temperature with a laser thermometer to verify the gauge is accurate first. Generally speaking a hotter engine within reason wears less and runs better. If the temp checks out with a laser thermometer you might try another thermostat.

Sorry but I really cant help you but you may be able to help me.

Could you possibly take a photo of the exhaust manifold, where it connects to the exhaust. I need to identify the manifold used on the W123 240D.

I would be a great help.

Many thanks in advance

Brett

yes brett i can in a few days. i have a exhaust leak in that area and i will be taking it apart soon. i will take pictures of the hookup and the manifold and get them too you. and barry i am going to check and see if the thermostat is correct and do you hav any easy ruise control fixes or a vacuum diagram to it?

The cruise will probably not work unless you spend about $400 to replace the components, or $200 on ebay for an aftermarket system, which you then need to install.

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'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
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'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

-at 110C you are "roasting" every seal on the engine. start with a good thermostat, make sure the fins are clean on radiator and condenser.
if still hot, replace radiator. good brands for tstat are behr or wahler.
-get a rebuild cruise amplifier (by programa) it comes with instructions on how to test the actuator. the actuator has a low failure rate but will destroy the new amp., if defective. there is only one vacuum line to the actuator, straight from the main line to the booster. the other(little thicker, black) line is a vent to the inside of the car.
-the transmission has to take off in 1st. otherwise it will "kick" at all other up and down shifts.

thanks markus, i am going to check the radiator and make sure the electric fan is kicking in. also my cc has good electric running to it, just no vaccum. i am unable to follow the line past the firewall but would there be anything wrong with tapping into the vacuum line coming straight out of the pump to the booster? and that is the only vacuum line going to it and ive checked it and it has no pressure. there is no line running from the booster to it

parts car pics
http://s135.photobucket.com/albums/q132/vstech/83%20300TD/240D%20RUST%20BUCKET/

That car has the early unit. An amp with a servo unit. Both have to work, of course. The epc doesn't say where the lines go to, except for item #77 as ventilation hose. Item #71 is a hose and #83 is a branch off fitting.
The pdf is from the FSM. There are many other pages. Too large a file for the forum, pm me if interested.

Attached Thumbnails

   

Attached Files

cruise control, servo 54-570.pdf (261.4 KB, 116 views)

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83 SD

84 CD

toomany mbz posted a nice diagram. note that the vent line #77 hooks up to the servo with a nut. vacuum supply #71 just slips on to a vacuum nipple by means of a short rubber hose. it just gets tied in to the vacuum supply of the big black hose to the booster. use a 3-way fitting.

thanks to you, that diagram and markus im going to tap into the line and try it tomorrow late afternoon. i will let you guys knows how it goes.