W123 "Annular" Style Axle Rebuild
 

I have a set of annular axles that I'm looking to rebuild. What are the appropriate boots for the this style (Dorman, Altrom, etc...)? I assume they differ from homokinetic axle boots. I only need the boots, I wont be disassembling the metal can on the outer CV joint. Finally are there any procedures for pressing out the inner CV joint. The W123 FSM only has procedures for homokinetic axles.

any updates on this project?
Bob K
240D

I would use the neoprene universal boots. About $10 each I think.

The Annular Axles can be re-booted in the same manner as the Homokinetic Axles (Cans on both ends) by stretching a Flexx or Dorman Boot over the "Can on the Axle. There is several write ups in the DIY Repair Link section on that.

However, I cannot remember who (funola ?) said that on the Annular end (the circular part with the Blolts going through it) on the Annular Axles can be taken apart and there is something in there that can be removed to slide the Boots on from that end.

What is not clear is if that "something" needs to be pressed off with a Hydraulic Press or not. I have seen no write up or pics of this on the Annular Axles.

So with the annular axle (later) you can get the boots on easy plus you dont have to open up the diff?

I have not read specific info on that.

In fact with the exception of the Made in China Annular Annular Axles some Members have installed; most Members seem to have the Homokinetic axles.

One of the Members claimed he chaned the 2 Boots on his Homokinetic Axles using one of the Plastic Cone type Tools (Dorman) to stretch the Boot over and leaving the Axle attached to the Differential.
He freeded the Axle from the Rear Wheel Hub and pushed it to one side to do it.
I assume he used Grease in the CV Joints but do not remember.

I have never Changed any Boots before but did change Axles. With the exception of removing the Differential Fill Plug what was needed to remove and install the Axles in the Differential was not hard an very straight forward.
The difficulty I had was getting the Axle Collasped enough and moving the parts around enough to go back into the Rear Hub Splined Hole. That problem might still be there with the Annular Axles.

The difficulty I had was getting the Axle Collasped enough and moving the parts around enough to go back into the Rear Hub Splined Hole. That problem might still be there with the Annular Axles. (quote)


No, the Annular axles are quit a bit easier to R&R. remove the 6 bolts on the Diff end.
Remove the bolt in the Hub.
Push towards the hub, drop down, and slide it out.

I really don`t see any difficulty replacing the boots compared to the Homokenetic.

Charlie

I've not had the pleasure of doing an axle yet:P but need to check my parts cars to see if any have annulars, they would then have bolts around the outside of the inner connection to the differential it sounds like.

bmwpowere36m3, good luck and keep us posted.

For someone reading through this, wondering what are these guys talking about? Annualr, Homokenitic :confused:

This is out of the DIY links. The old axles Dave is replacing are the Homokenetic axles.
The new axles in the last couple pictures are the Annular axles. notice the 6 bolts next to the Differential. the Homo axles don`t have these.

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W123RearAxles

Charlie

Both my euro 85s have the Homokenetic axles:mad:

Looks like the annulars on mine.

On your Euro 84, yes?, So the bolts around the inner flange are visible? I looked at my 77 parts car, (which is a low millage car) and it has annulars (bolts visible) but my 85 Euros, no.

No, I just checked, no bolt circle at the punkin. Scratching my head and sorting it out this weekend.

Humm, I have never done an axle so have no first hand experience but I thought bolts are visible on the inboard flange of an "annular" shaft. Good luck on the upcoming job.

Does anyone know by experience if ounce you remove the one end of the Annular (with Bolts) Axle you can slide the Stock type Boots (Not the Flexx or Dorman) Boots over what that end of the Axel.
Or, do you still need to use the Flexx or Dorman type boots but not the ATF or Cone to stretch them over the end?

Im going to be doing this soon. I have annular axels and nee dto replace both outer boots (or at least one of them, the other may only need a new clamp on the small end and a refill of grease.)
Ill post more info an perhaps pics if I remember and have my camera handy at the time.

if you discover how the can comes off, please take pictures. I've rebooted the annular style, but I just used the flexx gun, I did not disassemble the axle.

Well, this was much simpler than I expected. Here are some pics and details of the process disassembling annular style axles to replace the boots. I only wish I found out about this before purchasing a transmission fluid funnel. Oh well Im sure it will come in handy for other things.

First step: removing allen bolts. I had to use a 5/16th allen socket as I had no metric that size, but i believe the nearest metric equivalent would be a 8mm. The 5/16th I used had a pretty snug fit. i wouldnt have known the difference.

Remove all bolts and the spacers I kept track of where the spacers/brackets were originally.

The end section is ready to pop off. It needed only a light tap to separate the two sections.

Remove the gasket for reassembly. Mine looked fine. Im not sure where you would even get a new one if it wasnt.

Theres a simple "C"clip holding onto the axle shaft. Removing it with a pair of clip pliers.

And Voila! you can slide the whole joint assembly off and access both boots.

I discovered that the Febi boots did not fit properly onto this axle. The starps were much too big and wouldn't hold even when tightened all the way. They have hose clamp style straps. I ended up using some regular hose clamps as its all I had and couldnt wait any longer. They seem to be holding up fine.

The boot itself was also too big on the larger (outer edge) and I couldn't by all means get the thing on properly without it constantly slipping off before it was fully tightened.

I cut off a piece of the old boot that did fit snug, and I slipped it on the same area it was originally. simply a skinny strip as it was already formed to the groove on the inner edge of the can. this gave a snug sealed spacing between the new boot and the inner edge of the can (large end of the axle boot) and strapped it on snugly without it slipping off. Ill be keeping an eye on it.

I was ahppy to see there was still lots of grease in both sides even though one boot was torn and the other had broken its seal on the smaller axle end. I squeezed in more axle grease before sealing them up again.
Happy to have that off the list.... for now...

Thanks for this....

No kidding. Perfect thread for your W116 axle project.

Hoping to get it installed soon. I could use 2-3 mpg driving 1,000+ miles a week!!!!

That's going to save you a lot of money.

A 3 mpg increase is an improvement of about 10%.

That's cash right in your pocket.

Only issue I see with above method is you would be hard pressed to get grease down into the outer can....

The large clamps in the Febri kit are too big to tighten down. The tightening screw goes through a fold in the clamp metal, and then into a square nut. I made a second fold to take up some slack, and drilled a clearance hole through the two layers of clamp metal. Seems OK.

If you can get the Grease inside of a Grease Gun you can stick the Hose of the Gun Down inside the Can.

You could also stick one of those Needles that you can shove into the end of the Grease Gun and that will go even further back.

If you want to take more trouble you can attach a Zerk Fitting to one of those long Air Gun Needles and that will reach way back inside.