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Post-Search Axle Rebooting Questions
I've got a few questions that have arisen as a result of all the semi-conflicting but semi-agreeing threads I've recently read. My situation, first.
The 82 240D with... annular? (no cans) rear axles has got a torn boot on the right side. I was driving the car on a 100 mile trip two months ago, and about 75 miles along the way, I got the telltale rhythmic hammering on the rear end underside of the car. I drove it with this noise, intermittent, until I got where I was going. After the car (and the offending joint) cooled down, I drove it several more miles around town over a period of weeks before driving it (in complete silence) 100 miles home. Since then I've run several short errands with no noise. So, in summation: The axles have only been driven while ACTIVELY making clunking sounds approximately 25 miles. They have not resumed clunking since they stopped after the first manifestation, and they have been driven several clunk-free miles since the incident. However, the boot is visibly torn and I am going to replace it. 1. I've read in several threads that re-booting "already clunking" axles is a waste of time because they have damaged themselves. I assume that this is referring to a clunking condition that appears every single time you drive the car, which presumes that the damage has been going on for some time. Does the fact that mine have been quiet since the initial long-trip incident mean that mine are a *reasonably* safe bet to re-boot and keep driving, since they've been quiet since the one and only one day they were noisy? Or did I tear them up in those 25 miles, and their silence now does NOT indicate good axle health? 2. There are lots of Astoria boots floating around out there that people say they were happy with, and there is one thread in particular that mentions that Astoria products are inferior by comparison to products by "Dorman". A. Are Dorman boots soft enough, though "more durable" by some posts, to be stretched by the Astoria boot gun, which is the one I will be renting from a member? B. Is Dorman really such a better product that I would regret the Astoria purchase? C. If I go with Astoria, I see on their site that there are at least two boot series; a smaller and a larger. Which size/series do I want to purchase for the 240D? I am assuming the smallest one they advertise unless told otherwise. I could measure the diameter of mine to be sure before purchase, but an off-hand answer would be helpful. 3. I've read that when using junkyard axles, an important question is to figure out which spacing shims or something or another need to be used. I have no idea to what this is referring, and I've not found anything useful by searching even though I know it must be out there. Where do these "spacers" go? And, assuming I reboot my own axles and put them back *but on the opposite sides* -- do the spacers go with the axle to the other side, or do they stay on the same side they were always on with the other axle attached? I am going to re-use my existing axles if at all possible, but didn't know what effect the side-swapping would have. 4. I've read all the grease vs. oil debates. At risk of my own axles and my own road side experiences, I'm going to put heavy weight gear oil (80w90 or something) in the boots. I figure that regardless of modern technology, an oil bath will work the best. Has anyone used *Astoria* or *Dorman* or *other* boots, WITH liquid oil as the filling lubricant, and can confirm that the clamps will hold the oil in? I've read that Astoria doesn't recommend it because they lack confidence in this. I need some personal experience stories. Please specify what boot, and with what it was filled, and that yes, the clamps did hold the lubricant in. Thanks so much for all input. I'm sure I'll extend this as I get ready to do the project. 4. |
#2
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Dorman has a tool that works the same as the Astoria Flex Gun so it should survive the use of the gun.
From what I have read more members have used the Astoria Flex Boots than the Dorman so I think it would be difficult to say which is better. Concerning the Flexx Boot Size there is one for Trucks and One for cars that can be used on Mercedes. I believe the Truck one requires that you trim off more of it (do not trim either until it is clamped on the Axle as untrimmed it is less pron to ripping when stretched.) Somewhere in the Threads there is tha part number for both size of Flexx Boots It may be in here but I have not re-chacked that: Where to Find Axle Boots, Astoria Flexx Boots http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/265656-where-find-axle-boots-post2341902.html?highlight=Astoria+Flexx+Boot#post2341902 Dorman Boot Part number post #9 delivery valve http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/264160-re-boot-axle-adventures-post2326022.html?highlight=Astoria+Flexx+Boot#post2326022 The Spacers go between the Axles and the Differential. They are used to adjust the Axle Shaft end play (on the Differential end of the Axle) to zero while at the same time still allowing insertion of the Retainer Clip. The Dealer sells different sized/thicknesses of spacers for that purpose. Someone else will need to comment on the rest.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#3
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I found this in my note; part of another thread.
"Boot size, Astoria Flexx Boot The FB3000 is in fact the correct size. I got the FB3001 and ending up having to trim the largest section off the end, which made it the size of the FB3000 [they had trimming marks designed in at least]. "
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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