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  #16  
Old 05-22-2010, 07:05 PM
vstech's Avatar
DD MOD, HVAC,MCP,Mac,GMAC
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Mount Holly, NC
Posts: 26,518
the oil should be drained in the IP something like every 50K miles. use whatever engine oil you put in the motor. 15W40 should be fine. if you live in a cold climate, use synthetic, same as you would in the motor. if you live in a hot climate, use the 15W40 or if you live in a very hot climate, use the 20W50 diesel rated oil.
the IP does not have combustion gasses/soot in it, only gear/compression from fuel, so there is not any need to change as frequently. a problem does arise, when fuel is diluting the IP oil, so you should check the oil in the IP every crankcase oil change!

For the seats, I'd go to a junk yard and snatch the foam padding from a 124 and trim it to fit your seats. when you have the tex off, just be sure to inspect the springs before getting too far commited on your seats.

the transmission should have the oil changed, drain it well, and refill it with synthetic ATF and you'll be ahead of the game shifting wise.

have you put on the new tires yet? that'll make a big dent in vibrations.

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  #17  
Old 05-23-2010, 12:31 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: NE Okla
Posts: 1,104
It has been a while, but I believe that the drain plug on the red top IP's was for the hi side when filling. I was told to do a "top sider" on the old oil to be sure and get out all of the fuel dilution, then refill with new oil while the plug is out. When the new oil just starts to weep out the plug hole, stop and replace the plug. The comments about type of oil all seem accurate.

These IP oil changes become more important as the IP ages and the fuel dilution becomes more pronounced.
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1961 190Db retired
1968 220D/8 325,000
1983 300D 164,150
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  #18  
Old 05-23-2010, 02:18 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Woolwich, Maine
Posts: 3,597
The details of the procedure to change the oil in the injection pump on your vehicle are in the shop manual. I am not at home at the present time, so I can not consult the manual at this point. But, I do know I used to merely fill the unit until a ran a quart through it - pour oil in and it will run out the overflow tube. I would pour a quart in and get most of a quart out. I used Mobil 1 synthetic, with a blue cap from the mid 1970s for this originally. Later I used 15W-50 Mobil 1 (red cap) in the 1980's. Typically every other oil change. I found out about the overflow tube the first time. The little red cap has a kind of a dipstick on it and I had a hard time reading the level as the oil was clear as water, so I poured oil in and it ran out on the ground. I took that to mean it was full. Best done with a hose on the overflow tube so you can catch it, otherwise it makes a mess on the ground.

Jim
__________________
Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)
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  #19  
Old 05-23-2010, 06:13 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Sunsites, AZ
Posts: 692
I looked through my manuals . . . I could not find out how to drain it, just how to add . . . but I did find that if replacing injector pump, initial oil quanity should be .4 liter (about a pint)
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82 240D Manual 277K and still rolling!
02 Volvo S60 AWD For Sale
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  #20  
Old 05-23-2010, 07:05 PM
nickofoxford's Avatar
2 doors, 5 cylinders
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: S.E. PA
Posts: 447
I've owned a 1980 240D, it was lubricated through the engine oil circuit. But when I first got it I wanted to do a really good oil change and there is a plug on the lower portion of the IP below the aneroid capsule (if equipped) on top of the pump to the right of the injection lines. The plug should be an allen-key (8 or 10mm)

Hope this helps, and welcome to the forum!
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  #21  
Old 05-23-2010, 07:06 PM
nickofoxford's Avatar
2 doors, 5 cylinders
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: S.E. PA
Posts: 447
One more thing, I just looked through my FSM for the 617 turbodiesels and it calls for .4L of oil on a dry fill when replacing or reinstalling the pump. That is for the 617 motor so the pump is a cylinder bigger but that should give you a ballpark idea.
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  #22  
Old 05-23-2010, 09:32 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Woolwich, Maine
Posts: 3,597
Quote:
Originally Posted by Techy-Mechy View Post
The emergency brake peddle retracts fully. I have actuated the peddle many times and the cable seems to move easily and the emergency brake pads don't seem to be binding. Where is the switch located? I guess that this isn't too important for I know it's OK - but a light on does bother me.

Also, I've just got the brakes replaces and all of the fluids drained, etc. The brake fluid levels are a little high. Could this be causing the floats to give a bad reading? How does one check the brake resevoir flow functionality? Could this be causing the idiot light?

Please reply and thanks.

Dave
Older cars have a button on the master cylinder or resevoir you have to push
__________________
Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)
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  #23  
Old 05-24-2010, 12:02 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 64
I'll try to answer most of the questions.

The issues I have are:

* Vibration from the rear of the Car: I did replace the tires and fix the brakes. I also changed the rear diff oil and put in a real good synthetic. I crawled around the bottom of the car and noted that the rubber in the frame-to-differential suspension point and the frame-to-rear suspension (near the rear seat) points need to be replaced. I'm going to hire someone to do this work.

* IP oil replacement - I think that I'm getting a handle on this one. I think that I'll suck the existing oil out and fill with 15-40W DELO.

* Vacuum pump; I have to figure out if this is truly bad. I took the car to a mechanic who was recommended to me. The mechanic said that the vacuum pump was bad, but the brakes seem to work fine and the vacuum door locks seem to work fine. I think that the pump is original. Do these things fail very often. My car has 145K on it.

* Seat pads. I'll look for the horse hair replacement pads. I imagine that they are very spendy. If this is so, my wife is quite a good at upholestry and I'm thinking that we'll use the good foams available today in liu of the horse hair.

* Brake idiot light is on: I had the front calipers, rotors, and pads replaced. I also had the rear rotors and pads replaced. The brake fluid was flushed with new fluid. I believe that I pushed the buttons on the top of the brake fluid resevoir to reset the floats. The parking brake cable seems free and the parking brake foot peddle seems to come back to the proper position. The red light is still on. There must be a switch which tells the system that the bake peddle was pushed on. Where is this switch located? I tried to take a picture of what I believe to be the switch, but I'm not sure. Can someone tell me how to test the floats in the brake fluid resevoir and or what else you'd check out to fix the idiot light?


Those were the main things. Can someone help me with the idiot light and the vacuum pump questions?

Please reply and thanks,

Dave
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  #24  
Old 05-24-2010, 08:21 AM
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Woolwich, Maine
Posts: 3,597
I believe the buttons have a test function and a reset function. It has been a long time, but I believe if the pedal goes to the floor there is a position switch that is set. You have to manually reset it by pressing the button on master cylinder until it "clicks" - unfortunately i cannot recall the exact procedure. Later models don't have the feature.

Your vacuum pump is probably fine if it makes vacuum and no noises that sound threatening.

Good luck, Jim
__________________
Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)
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  #25  
Old 05-24-2010, 11:11 PM
1985 300D Turbo
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 628
240 D questions

Hi welcome to the forum!!!!

This is a great place and has tons of really good info and plenty of people ready to help. I am a noob myself but think I mite be able to answer at least one of your questions

"give me some ideas on how to test the vacuum pump. I highly doubt that the vacuum pump has ever been gone through."

Get yourself a mity vac or something similar, I got a similar one at harbor frieght for less than $20 I think they also have them at sears this will be yor friend for many things

Disconnect the main vacuum line at the brake booster, plug the little lines that connect to the main vac line, be very careful removing the rubber hoses from the main vac line, the connectors on the main vac line break easy, plug those somehow, connect your mighty vac at the brake booster end of the main vac line and test for vacuum. A good read is no lower than 17, I think, 20's is real good the higher the better. If you do a search up top I think you will be able to find vac diagrams for your car save them on your pc sometimes the links go bad

From what I can understand there are 2 style vac pumps the newer style has a smooth face. The older usually are replaced 'cause the bearings go bad in them and make a real good mess of things. I think the newer style do not have bearings. From what I gather they can be rebuilt. Click on the link above "buy parts" And Phil and Roy will be a great help to you. Their phone numbers are on the front page of the forum.
I have an 85 300D so this is what I have learned so far w/ my car so yours mite be a little different.

Post back all of your results so we can learn along with you!!
we love pictures
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  #26  
Old 05-25-2010, 12:50 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 64
Thanks for the information.

OK - for the brake idiot light. Does anyone know the correct procedure for resetting the buttons on my brake resevoirs? Also, I took a picture of the underdash near the brake pedal. Can anyone point out the micro switch for the foot emergency brake. The idiot light come on (actually didn't go off) when I set the parking brake and then released it. I'm thinking that I need to fully reset the brake fluid resevoir level switches and to check for micro switch alignment. Can some one help me here?

Now for the vacuum pump. I have an old vacuum gage I used to adjust carburators need valves. I'm thinking that this would be good to test the vacuum pump. I assume that your vacuum is 17-20" of Hg vacuum - is this correct? As far as replacements go, I'll call the guy on the above link.

Please reply and thanks,

Dave
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  #27  
Old 05-25-2010, 08:56 AM
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Woolwich, Maine
Posts: 3,597
Sounds like you don't actually have a problem with the reservoir reset - if the problem started when you applied the e-brake, you likely have a poor performing e-brake switch. You might still examine how much fluid is in the rear compartment of the reservoir. A common problem is that the fluid there drains out (for whatever reasons) and can only be refilled when the front compartment is overfilled and then the fluid overflows the partition and spills into the rear chamber.

Been too long since I worked with that body. The switch is likely behind the cardboard style kick panel.

Good luck.

Jim
__________________
Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)
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  #28  
Old 05-25-2010, 07:33 PM
1985 300D Turbo
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 628
Quote:
Originally Posted by Techy-Mechy View Post
Thanks for the information.

OK - for the brake idiot light. Does anyone know the correct procedure for resetting the buttons on my brake resevoirs? Also, I took a picture of the underdash near the brake pedal. Can anyone point out the micro switch for the foot emergency brake. The idiot light come on (actually didn't go off) when I set the parking brake and then released it. I'm thinking that I need to fully reset the brake fluid resevoir level switches and to check for micro switch alignment. Can some one help me here?

Now for the vacuum pump. I have an old vacuum gage I used to adjust carburators need valves. I'm thinking that this would be good to test the vacuum pump. I assume that your vacuum is 17-20" of Hg vacuum - is this correct? As far as replacements go, I'll call the guy on the above link.

Please reply and thanks,

Dave
Double check with the pro's here first before replacing anything... they wont let you replace it unless it really needs replacing.
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  #29  
Old 06-19-2010, 09:56 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 17
OHH OHHH PICK ME,

I am so excited, i think i know this one, there is a little pin like thing that sticks out and makes the dash light on. sorry if you already tried this, I think we have very similar cars, get a hold of me if you want to brainstorm on anything els?
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