My father bought a 240D-4 speed in 1974. I have recently purchased the car from my brother. The car has 145,000 miles on it and has been rarely used in the last 12 years. When I got the car, it needed repairs, including:

*New Tires
*New front brake calipers, rotors and pads
*New rear brake rotors and pads
*New belts
*Replace the differential fluid with a synthetic gear box oil

I also replace the rubber fuel hoses just off of the injector fuel pump and on the bottom of the car. I have a few issues with the car that I'm trying to figure out. Can you please help me.

Issues:

1. The car has a vibration at about 45 - 50 mph, primarily in 4th gear. The rubber couplers on the drive shaft seem to be hard. The rubber pads between the rear differential and the body and the suspension arms under the rear seat and body look to be needing to be replaced. Do you think that this should fix the vibration? I replaced the gear box oil with a high quality synthetic oil and this seems to have helped a little (maybe???).

2. I looked in the injection pump "OEL" red cap and couldn't see any oil. Does one need to replace the oil in the injector pump, or is that recirculated with the engine oil. If I need to replace the oil, how much do I put in it and where do I drain the injector. What kind of oil do you recommend?

3. I used the parking brake and the brake light has remained on in the dash. The local mechanic said that this could be due to a weak vacuum pump. I really don't understand his reasoning. How does one know if the vacuum pump is working. The car seems to be running well and the vacuum door locks work. Please provide some ideas on how to fix the idiot light and give me some ideas on how to test the vacuum pump. I highly doubt that the vacuum pump has ever been gone through.

4. The rheostat on the dash board feels really rough. How hard is it to pull the instrument cluster and replace the rheostat? Also, the glass on the speedometer has been pushed in. I did a quick, simple glue dob to keep the glass from rattling and breaking, but the retainer ring behind the glass has one of the most annoying rattles you've ever heard. Can anyone give me some advice on how to fix this?

5. The horse hair padding has basically gone away. How do people fix this? The MB TEX is still in fine shape. Can I remove the MB TEX and put foam under it or how do you suggest fixing this?

6. I don't think that the transmission oil has ever been replaced. The car shifts fine, but third gear is a "little" (slightly) sticky. What type of oil would you suggest using and how much is required.

I'm sorry about peppering you with the questions, but I really could use some help from the folks with whiskers. I've ordered the CD manuals from Mercedes Benz USA and talked to the parts guys there.

Please reply and thanks,

Dave

I tried to take a picture of the injector pump, but the darn batteries on my camera died. I'm charging them now and will take a picuture tomorrow in the sun light.

I'll try to describe my injector pump.

* It has a red cap that says OEL.
* The pump is located on the drivers side of the engine.
* There is a little rounded tube between the injector pump and the engine. Is this the overflow tube for the proper oil level? I'll try to get a picture of this tomorrow.
* I've read that I should put 30W oil in the pump - is this correct?

More tomorrow. If you can provide assistance on how to properly identify the pump for better diagnosis, please reply. I didn't see any obvious drain plugs, but it's really hard to see the pump very well. Mercedes really didn't do a very good job of making things accessable on this car.

Please reply and thanks.

Dave

OK - I believe that the drain plug is about 1" in front of the red fill cap and 3 " down the side of the pump.

Now....how much oil should I put in it?

I also have read that I should use automotive 30 W oil.

Please advise on the oil type and amount.

Thanks,

Dave

I believe the 70's cars IP had it's own little oil well, and it does need to be changed at regular intervals, I just dont know the correct intervals, do a search on the forum, there's been a fair few posts on it.

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hum.....
1987 300TD 311,000M Stolen. Presumed destroyed

Thanks for the reply.

I understand that you should change the oil with engine oil change intervals.

I've done a number of searches, but I haven't been able to find the info for how much oil to put in or where the drain/overflow plugs are.

I have a manual on order. I really don't want to drive the car much until I can figure this out.

Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks,


Dave

The parking brake return spring may be loose or weak. YOu can lift the lever with your foot.


The vibration may be from simply shifting to fourth gear at too low a speed. Or your motor mount may be nearly shot. You can visually inspect the mm and see if they are collapsing. If they collapse and you get the metal motor mount meeting the metal of the sub frame the vibration will be immense.

The horse hair pads are replaceable with parts from your favorite mercedes parts place.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Dave,
Welcome to the forum!!!!! We hope you find it useful and you end up with a car that runs to your satisfaction!!

Item 3. I have had this problem. I found that because of lack of use the park brake didnt return fully to its rest position & so it didnt trip the light switch. I oiled the cables & worked the park brake a few times including pushing it right back. It fixed it. There is no connection between the vac system & the park brake!!

__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

Not sure about the 74's but on later models the red brake light is an indication of low brake fluid in the reservoir.
You may be able to find new padding for the seat.

__________________
83 SD

84 CD

Hey Dave, if you're in the mid-Willamette-Valley area we should get together for coffee sometime. I'm pretty new to this scene too.

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Finn John -- Albany, Ore.
www.offbeatoregon.com
76 Merc 300D, sky-blue, *86k, for driving
84 Jaguar XJ6, black, 245k, for restoring someday
71 Merc 408, 2.3 petrol 4, Avon caravan conversion (UK), RHD

OK, here's my injection pump pictures. I'm having a devil of a time figuring out how to upload the images - they're way too big from my camera. Look at the bent tube - is this the oil overflow - i.e. it tells you when the pump is full?

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OK - I'm getting better with photoshop elements, but not very good. Is this the injection pump drain plug?

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Here is a picture of the injection pump fill cap.

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OK,

Did I get this right? You open the drain plug let drip. Then you fill with 30W oil until it starts to flow out of the overflow bent pipe?

Is this right?

Please reply and thanks.

Dave

The emergency brake peddle retracts fully. I have actuated the peddle many times and the cable seems to move easily and the emergency brake pads don't seem to be binding. Where is the switch located? I guess that this isn't too important for I know it's OK - but a light on does bother me.

Also, I've just got the brakes replaces and all of the fluids drained, etc. The brake fluid levels are a little high. Could this be causing the floats to give a bad reading? How does one check the brake resevoir flow functionality? Could this be causing the idiot light?

Please reply and thanks.

Dave

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I'll give you a call. I live in Corvallis and it'd be good to meet other MB people in the mid valley.