Hey guys,

So as of yesterday Norm has been really difficult when it comes time to shut him down. I take the key out, he shudders for about 3 seconds, then finally quits. If I hold down the accelerator pedal it will continue to run until I take it off. Also, my door locks have stopped working almost completely.

I know that the shutoff valve is the best place to point the finger, but here is why I haven't yet.

Yesterday I attempted to change my motor mounts, and in the process jacked the engine in to the air. Well, the "motor mounts" I thought I had ended up being subframe bushings, so everything went back together and I ordered new motor mounts.

After doing all of this is when the problem started. I really think I cracked a vacuum line or something because it was wayy too "all of a sudden". Meaning I moved the car to the driveway, it shut of normally, went to move the car again and all of this happened.

Where are the vacuum lines located that would cause a problem like this? Or is it really my shut off valve going nuts?

Thanks for the help!

sounds like a cracked vacuum line. just from moving the engine up a couple inches would make me wonder about the vacuum connections in the engine bay. maybe even the large plastic hardline going to the pump has cracked.

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sorry i didn't answer your questions, i always get antsy and post right away and the read again.. weird i know..

the large plastic hardline is on the IP side of the motor running from the brake master cylinder to the front of the engine (vacuum pump) other connections are to the left of the master cylinder against the firewall and in the nook between the back of the IP and the firewall.

if your door locks aren't working then it's probably the main large hardline or the connection between the hardline and the yellow check valves you'll see by the firewall.


hope this helps!

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na your problem isnt with the shut off valve since other vacuum stuff is acting up.

Check the lines under the hood near the oil filter housing for cracks, also check the main line going to the booster for cracks in the check valve nipples.

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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

^Yeah I've looked and I don't see anything. I even tried zip-tying up the rubber connections to see if that would help.

I'm going to place an order for some vacuum line and replace everything that I can. Hopefully that'll help...

check the hard plastic lines for cracks.

Is the AC acting up?

__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

I broke my connections to the main vacuum line several times changing the motor mounts.
I bet you did too. I fixed them by pulling the insulation off a #14 wire, and sticking it in the nipple, then epoxying the lines back together. I used the plastic epoxy, worked great.

Made the switch to 12 and my drier blew, so it's been inop for the last week. Before this it was fine.

Which ones, the white nipples that come off the line? I'll have to check those tomorrow and see what happens.

Oh boy this is fun.

The usual suspect is a leak in the door locking system, is that functioning as it should?
Inspect the brown vac line going to the shut off actuator for any oil inside, that would indicate a failed diaphragm in it.

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83 SD

84 CD