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  #1  
Old 05-25-2010, 02:45 AM
Ian White's Avatar
machinemanjr
 
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Inner CVJ Can removal for OE rebooting?

A couple months back, I purchased four new boots for my CV joints on the 300SD. The outer joints are Febi boots and come with a tube of moly grease. The inner boots are GSK brand that came with new cans. I want to replace the inner cans as well as the boots: inner and outer. How can I remove the OE cans in order to slip on the new boots? These are OE type, so lubing a funnel or using the Flexx gun won't help me here....


Also, can someone point me in the right direction for instructions on how to properly repack the joints with the gigantic tubes of Moly?


Thanks!
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1995 E300 Diesel w124 OM606
2007 GMC Sierra Classic 1500 4x4 5.3L

2001 BMW 740i E38 M62 (past)
1981 300SD w126 OM617 (past)
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  #2  
Old 05-25-2010, 03:45 AM
DeliveryValve's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian White View Post
A couple months back, I purchased four new boots for my CV joints on the 300SD. The outer joints are Febi boots and come with a tube of moly grease. The inner boots are GSK brand that came with new cans. I want to replace the inner cans as well as the boots: inner and outer. How can I remove the OE cans in order to slip on the new boots? These are OE type, so lubing a funnel or using the Flexx gun won't help me here....


Also, can someone point me in the right direction for instructions on how to properly repack the joints with the gigantic tubes of Moly?


Thanks!

This link has some good info on how to reboot an axle using factory type cv boots.

http://boostnbenz.1baddsm.com/DIY/CVboots/



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  #3  
Old 05-25-2010, 12:53 PM
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The Factory Service Manual shows using a Hydraulic press to press of the CV Joint Spider so that the boot can be slid on to the shaft. But, that is for the Homokinetic Axles that have an inner and outer CAN.

People have indicated that on the Annular Axles you are able to take apart one end and slide the Boots on from that end with no CAN Cutting.

Even though I have a Hydraulic press buried in my Garage I do not think I would go through the bother or the extra expense (if you buy the kit with new cans or the can end that gets crimpped) to install the Stock type Boots.
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  #4  
Old 05-25-2010, 01:55 PM
Stretch's Avatar
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Is this link any use?

I've found this link

http://www.dieselgiant.com/mercedesaxleshaftbootreplace.htm

Is it any use?

There is no mention of cutting cans here
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  #5  
Old 05-25-2010, 05:40 PM
Ian White's Avatar
machinemanjr
 
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No, he is using the universal Flexx boots. I am using Febi and GNK by LoPro: Factory quality components. So, I am assuming my car has Homo kinetic axles then?
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1995 E300 Diesel w124 OM606
2007 GMC Sierra Classic 1500 4x4 5.3L

2001 BMW 740i E38 M62 (past)
1981 300SD w126 OM617 (past)
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  #6  
Old 05-26-2010, 12:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian White View Post
No, he is using the universal Flexx boots. I am using Febi and GNK by LoPro: Factory quality components. So, I am assuming my car has Homo kinetic axles then?
It is easy to tell which Axle you have. The Annular Axle on the end that Attaches to the Differential has six or so Bolts going through it.

The Homokinetic ones have CANs on each end.

The FSM CD only has instructions for rebuilding the Homokinetic Axles and calls for cutting the crimped on Cone end of the can off (with a special tool). After that the Can with one of the spiders can come off.

The spider that is on the long Axle Shaft needs to be pressed of by way of a Hydraulic Press.

There is also some sort of bump cap on the end of the Shaft that gets buggered up.
Ounce the Spider is off the both Boots can be slid onto the Shaft.

When it is assembled the new Cone is supposed to be crimped back on to the CAN. I think if you use the O-ring and some Silicone Sealant the Crimpming job does not have to be that exact as the Silicone would seal any little tiny gap.

Please check for the exact details on the above as I am remembering what I read not reading it from the manual.

With in this link ther is a link to the PDF; I did not try the PDF.
http://boostnbenz.1baddsm.com/DIY/CVboots/
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Last edited by Diesel911; 05-26-2010 at 01:05 AM.
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  #7  
Old 05-26-2010, 01:04 AM
Ian White's Avatar
machinemanjr
 
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Your direction has helped greatly. I indeed have the homokinetic type. I have the Service manuals on CD but they do not cover rebooting. Would you, Brian or Roy be kind enough to post a picture or a link to factory picts?

Delivery Valve's link helps much, but the photos are poor quality.

Thanks in advance,
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1995 E300 Diesel w124 OM606
2007 GMC Sierra Classic 1500 4x4 5.3L

2001 BMW 740i E38 M62 (past)
1981 300SD w126 OM617 (past)
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  #8  
Old 05-26-2010, 01:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian White View Post
Your direction has helped greatly. I indeed have the homokinetic type. I have the Service manuals on CD but they do not cover rebooting. Would you, Brian or Roy be kind enough to post a picture or a link to factory picts?

Delivery Valve's link helps much, but the photos are poor quality.

Thanks in advance,
You have an 300SD I have a 300D and the instructions are in that manual.
In the 123 manual is listed under Chassis and Body Manual, Main Function Group 660 Exchanging Rubber Sleeve on Rear Axle Shafts.

If you open the photos in that link up in a New Window they are bigger and easier to see. Also those photos are better than the pics in the FSM.
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  #9  
Old 05-26-2010, 01:20 AM
Ian White's Avatar
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My FSM only covers w126's.


Darnit.
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Ian White

1995 E300 Diesel w124 OM606
2007 GMC Sierra Classic 1500 4x4 5.3L

2001 BMW 740i E38 M62 (past)
1981 300SD w126 OM617 (past)
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  #10  
Old 05-26-2010, 01:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian White View Post
My FSM only covers w126's.


Darnit.
I think Mercedes uses the same section numbers for the same parts on their cars. I thought that by giving the number it would help find it on the CD; if it is there.

As it happens I have Vol 1 of the 126 Cahassis and Body manual and in that manual they show 35-660 Remove and reinstall constant velocity joint Boot.

I would try using the "search" feature on your computer and search your FSM CD for 36-660.pdf and see if it shows up.

Or you can use Explorer and look in the Chassis file for it by number.
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  #11  
Old 05-26-2010, 01:24 AM
Ian White's Avatar
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I'll look and post back tomorrow. Thanks for all your help. Much appreciated...

Ian
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Ian White

1995 E300 Diesel w124 OM606
2007 GMC Sierra Classic 1500 4x4 5.3L

2001 BMW 740i E38 M62 (past)
1981 300SD w126 OM617 (past)
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  #12  
Old 05-26-2010, 01:47 AM
Diesel911's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeliveryValve View Post
This link has some good info on how to reboot an axle using factory type cv boots.

http://boostnbenz.1baddsm.com/DIY/CVboots/



.
I saved all the pis from the above site. I can photoshop the few that are dark and make them a little better.
Until the above link I had never seen what is inside the Axle Clearly.
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  #13  
Old 06-30-2010, 03:17 PM
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Any update on this project?

Can I take my axles to an indy and have them rebuilt there? I dont have a shop press and am in no position to own one....

dd
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  #14  
Old 06-30-2010, 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by dieseldan44 View Post
Any update on this project?

Can I take my axles to an indy and have them rebuilt there? I dont have a shop press and am in no position to own one....

dd
I think re-booting is different from re-building. That place in Colorado is the one that is often mentioned for re-built Axles.

A local shop might do the re-booting but they would most likely use either the Flexx or Dorman Boots; using either the Flexx Gun or the Dorman version of the Flexx Gun that works the same way.
The labor cost would be less to do the above.
I also believe some shops that specialize in front end work would do more re-booting jobs than a regular general repair shop would.


I doubt if there is many shops that would cut the Can off on one end and Press off part of the Axle and and reassemble it properly with a new crimped on Can.
As posted by Deliveryvalve the below is what they would have to do.
http://boostnbenz.1baddsm.com/DIY/CVboots/
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