I was towing a trailer with motorcycle to my sister's place with the 300K mile 300TD. It was about a 2 hour drive. It rained off and on, and I noticed the rear window was becoming somewhat obscured. When I arrived, I discovered it was oil on the rear window. the oil had run under the car,along the hitch, onto the trailer, and covered the bike with oil! The engine still showed full oil pressure when I pulled up, but There was no oil reading on the dip stick. I added 4 quarts to bring it to normal level again. I found the Turbo oil line going to the rear of the filter housing was rubbing against the engine, grinding away (for many years) until a hairline crack occurred. The clamp on the line was not bolted to the engine. The clamp, if attached, would have set clearance between line and engine. I'm pretty lucky the crack was not any wider...the oil would have dumped out very quickly! Perhaps a flexible braided line would be better for this application? Otherwise, I think this one is fixable with brazing.

Scott

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um, be careful brazing it, you'll have to totally empty it of oil first, and best to flow nitrogen through it during the brazing process...

Replace it...

Cheaper than a bearing...Robert

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Did you just pass my 740 at 200 kmh in a 300SD?????

1978 300SD 'Phil' - 1,315,853 Miles And Counting - 1, 317,885 as of 12/27/2012 - 1,333,000 as of 05/10/2013, 1,337,850 as of July 15, 2013, 1,339,000 as of August 13, 2013



100,000 miles since June 2005 Overhaul - Sold January 25th, 2014 After 1,344,246 Miles & 20 Years of Ownership

Thanks for the advise!
After inspecting the line more closely, I see several deep nicks & agree it is not worth pushing my luck with this one.

Any suggestions of where to find a new one?

Scott

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Dealer or junkyard.

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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970

I second that. I'd just get a new one.

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

yeah ANYTHING oil related or oil sending related

don't take a chance on if it cracked there it will crack somewhere else soon

although JB weld could work in a pinch untill you get a new line and replace

all of your "soft clamps" you know the rubber coated metal clamps for trans and oil lines

get them at lowes or menards (I got mine at lowes) cheap insurance if you have the OEM

ones on there I'd bet the "soft" part is gone and the metal clamp is wearing away other lines

Another problem not mentioned is that if you Braze it would indeed burn up the Oil insde; but that is not the risk. The risk is that if the Tube is not carefully cleand that burned oil particles will end up in the Turbo Charger.

The Big Rigs use to use Steel Braided Hose for the Turbo Inlets and Out Lets.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel