Where the turbo drains back into the oil pan I'm leaking oil- lots of it and it just started.. There is a metal return line and then a rubber piece. The oil is coming up from the pan it appears. Does this spin in- or is it just a collar gasket?


For some other reason (maybe they are related) the engine is very low on power- like it has no turbo. I just cleaned the boost line to the ALDA. Please verify that I returned the lines to the proper place- the line from the ALDA goes on the top, and the line from the intake manifold goes on the bottom of the small black junction mounted on the firewall in front of the driver. It has a two pronged electrical connection on it also.

this will help with the turbo oil return leak
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM617TurboDrainTube

you can bypass your over boost protection (the black box on the fire wall) mines been bypassed for over a decade now... but even if you want to keep it in the loop try bypassing it as part of your trouble shooting.

the black box is just a valve, on or off. so its not going to matter if the lines are on backward... but if the valve is stuck closed, that may be a problem.

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Welcome to the forum. You might tell us what kind of a car you're asking about. It sounds like a 123, which uses a metal pipe for the turbo drain and a rubber collar where the pipe goes into the oil pan. The rubber gets old and brittle after 20 years or so and needs to be replaced.

As for your ALDA question, I don't have a 123 any more so I can't be sure about the correct placement of the lines but someone else can help.

Jeremy

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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970

yep, w123- I have two wagons. After being here for 6 years I forgot that folks would not remember I've always had 617 powered wagons.

I also changed the path of the valve cover oil vapor separator so that it would drain into a container instead going into the intake air. Would that make a difference? The air path is quite long- perhaps it needs the vacuum of the turbo? This may explain the sudden loss of power and oil leak- my crankcase has positive pressure. Does this follow? I will return the old path tomorrow and see.

When I cleaned the ALDA lines I used spray 9- an industrial version of 409- then spun the lines with my hand to drain the liquid out. Would remaining (

I think you just solved your problem.

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I hope so- it was kinda a eureka moment. I thought of all the things I'd done and how they could cause this sudden loss of power AND brand new oil leak. I added a poll to make it interesting.

theoretically, the alda/ boost lines can go either way into the solenoid.

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It sounds like you plugged the valve cover directly back to the oil pan = no crankcase vent = massive pressure buildup = something is going to POP.

the chemical will cause no issues unless it turned the garbage in the solenoid into goo, and then the goo sludged up the ports.

PS.. I spent a day soaking that solenoid in solvents and cleaners... it still plugged up every now and then... I bypassed it.

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it sounds like he vented to a separator and maybe then atmosphere.

in my experience, the car will shut down before anything pops.

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depends upon the volume of crankcase air leakage and the weakest sealing point..

Considering the massive oil leak = it seems the crankcase pressure is finding an alternate exit point.

I vent to a 240D external separator, then with a large hose to the air intake of the turbo. Of course the liquid return part of the sep unit is plumbed back to the oil pan right next to the turbo return. Now the vapor side is plumbed so that it ends not in the intake air stream, but ends in a plastic container filled with fishing line and then has two small vent lines that snake down next to the oil pan(but not into). These hoses- about the size of vacuum lines would, in theory, vent the vapor to the atmosphere and I thought they would leak a minute amount of oil. The container is sealed tight and so the only vent is the two small vent lines. I hoped the fishing line would provide surface area to gather the oil from any remaining vapor and pool it at the bottom of the container, and then vent nearly as clean vapor as possible. The airflow thru the container has got to be much less due to the restriction of the "vents", and of course there is now no suction on the vapor.

The car did die several times in trips around the block here trying to figure out what was wrong before I found the oil leak.


~PLEASE VOTE- I'M GETTING THIRSTY~

since both your options allow you to drink tonight... I think you can do so without waiting for us to vote. Besides, looking at the stats, these people aren't reading the thread anyway.

enjoy

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Roy,

This has come up quite a few times. Lets seriously consider the elements that can 'pop' and end this discussion.

front crank seal

valve cover elbow

the diaphragm in the shut-off vale on IP

--please add to the list and analyze each one.

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IMO; leave the MB engineered system alone, it draws cold air, and flows many times the required volume.
The spewing air cleaner oil accumulator is frequently caused by the valve at the bottom of the return tube being plugged = drop the lower oil pan and clean it.
If you must alter it, use the 240D oil accumulator.


If you plug the crankcase vent:

* Oil fill cap gasket = if it is not fresh pliable rubber and does not seal perfectly against normal operating pressure = expect it to bubble/spit/spray.

* valve cover gasket = getting it to seal against normal operating pressure can be a challenge = I have seen the gasket do a Bronx cheer and start spitting oil (due to a pinched crankcase vent tube).

* front crank seal = many of us have 200K on it = less than perfect seal = expect it to leak.

* rear crank seal = many owners replace everything except the rear main seal = if it is the weakest seal = it can cause it to fail, possibly catastrophically = enjoy pulling the engine to replace it.

* vacuum pump to block gasket can fail due to this issue, but it is generally an easy repair + clean up the oil slime trails.

* injection pump gaskets, any one of these can fail = anything from minor weeping to a drooling/spitting catastrophe.

* the turbo oil return tube is a common leak point with a perfect operating crankcase vent, = I have seen a new grommet oozing/spitting (due to a capped off crankcase vent).

* valve cover elbow = many of us have 200K on it = less than perfect seal + brittle rubber = expect it to leak.

* the diaphragm in the shut-off vale on IP = three possible actions occur:
#1. On a perfectly sealed engine, the engine will start, then shutdown when pressure pushes the back of the vacuum diaphragm..
#2. On a partially sealed (leaking) engine, the engine will start, then run poorly/lack power when pressure pushes the back of the vacuum diaphragm..
#3. On a perfectly sealed engine with a BAD vacuum shutoff diaphragm, the engine will start, blow oil through the vacuum system, continue to build higher pressure (until something fails, relieving the pressure), and fail to shut off with the switch.

* lower oil pan gasket = if it is already weeping a tiny bit of oil = it can fail catastrophically = dumping most of your oil.

* head gasket = if it is already weeping a tiny bit of oil = it can fail = bubble/spit/spray.

* upper oil pan gasket = if it is already weeping a tiny bit of oil = it will make the issue worse.

*** intake valve guides = if they are worn + bad seals + excess crankcase pressure = the super saturated oil vapor can feed the cylinders enough oil/fuel to runaway...



Without service records and the exact mileage on the engine, I can only pass on (worst case) what I have seen happen in the field.