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  #1  
Old 06-07-2010, 12:25 PM
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adjusting go peddle linkages

It must be a reptilian response. When idiots tailgate me I just can't help it but pump the peddle to the mettle repeatedly to smoke-em and back-em off.

I have been doing this so often and with such force lately that I must have dislodged something in the linkages because the peddle response has been getting worse and worse, to the point the engine does not respond till the peddle has travelled 2". Very annoying to say the least.

I just took off the first linkage rod (to the right of circled rod) from the peddle and also removed the cruise control rod and then worked the linkages to try and study how it actually operates.

I made one adjustment: lengthening the rod (circled) by 3 turns of the ball end and went for a test drive and what a difference! Instant response!

Don't know if what I did was correct per FSM but it sure made a big difference.

Question: Should the IP limit stop be touching with throttle fully depressed or should there be a gap? If so, what is the gap?



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Last edited by funola; 06-07-2010 at 01:03 PM.
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  #2  
Old 06-07-2010, 01:54 PM
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the lever should touch the stop bolt.

I don't think the rod lengths are the problem if the system was set up properly before.

The longitudinal rod that comes from the firewall can be adjusted in a twisting motion. This compensates for the failing bushings on the throttle levers and on the firewall.
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  #3  
Old 06-07-2010, 01:59 PM
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Check the bushing on the firewall for any play.
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  #4  
Old 06-07-2010, 02:05 PM
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i hope your not one of those people that likes to go < the speed limit in the hammer lane...
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  #5  
Old 06-07-2010, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jt20 View Post
the lever should touch the stop bolt.

I don't think the rod lengths are the problem if the system was set up properly before.

The longitudinal rod that comes from the firewall can be adjusted in a twisting motion. This compensates for the failing bushings on the throttle levers and on the firewall.
The rod from firewall twisted instantly as I depressed the peddle so my slack was further down the line.
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  #6  
Old 06-07-2010, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69shovlhed View Post
i hope your not one of those people that likes to go < the speed limit in the hammer lane...
No, I cruise at 70 to 75 in 55 zone and that's normal for around here.
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  #7  
Old 06-07-2010, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
The rod from firewall twisted instantly as I depressed the peddle so my slack was further down the line.
if the twisting began initially, but you did not reach full throttle, the rods may still not be at fault.

Bear with me, I spent alot of time fiddling with this and may not be explaining it well... it is more complicated than it looks.

assuming, at one point, that you could reach full throttle coming from the proper resting position; it is more beneficial to adjust the ball joints that the rods snap onto.

Changing the one (bj) on the valve cover under the bowden cable adjusts the swept length (or radius) of the entire assembly.

ie.. moving the bj away from firewall allows you to reach full throttle sooner.

if you change the rod lengths, you may not hit full throttle at the time you reach the kickdown switch with the pedal
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Old 06-07-2010, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jt20 View Post
if the twisting began initially, but you did not reach full throttle, the rods may still not be at fault.

Bear with me, I spent alot of time fiddling with this and may not be explaining it well... it is more complicated than it looks.

assuming, at one point, that you could reach full throttle coming from the proper resting position; it is more beneficial to adjust the ball joints that the rods snap onto.

Changing the one (bj) on the valve cover under the bowden cable adjusts the swept length (or radius) of the entire assembly.

ie.. moving the bj away from firewall allows you to reach full throttle sooner.

if you change the rod lengths, you may not hit full throttle at the time you reach the kickdown switch with the pedal
I didn't know the ball itself is adjustable. Have you done a writeup on the subject? I found a few posts with images from the FSM but it is illegible unfortunately.
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  #9  
Old 06-07-2010, 02:50 PM
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the fsm is totally useless on the issue.


....ha! this IS my writeup.
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  #10  
Old 06-07-2010, 03:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jt20 View Post
the fsm is totally useless on the issue.


....ha! this IS my writeup.
ha ha keep writing then.
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  #11  
Old 06-07-2010, 03:52 PM
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In the pic where the Red Arrow points there is a 10mm Blot. Loosen that and there is a Kidney slot for adjustment.

When I did mine I adjusted that 10mm Bolt, The Rod attached to that Arm and the Rod going down to the IP Throttle Arm.

There is also an adjustment coming up from the Acceleratoro Pedal to the Bell Crank but on mine there was no more adjustment left.

Now that I am reading this I am wondering if there is anything on the Accelerator Pedal that wears out also?
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adjusting go peddle linkages-untitled-1.jpg  
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  #12  
Old 06-07-2010, 06:07 PM
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On the other end of the blue circled rod, on the botton of the ball stud there is a 7 mm nut on a kidney slot. I think that's the one jt20 was talking about. Is that the other adjustment you are referring to? I'll play with it and see what it'll do.
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  #13  
Old 06-07-2010, 06:38 PM
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he is referring to what was mentioned in post #2

you already said that your pedal would bottom out before full throttle (I assumed) despite its early engagement of the longitudinal rod. Changing that setting will not help. It will only effect the range of pedal travel with respect to the floor.

you need to work on rod length

or

the ratio between pedal movement versus throttle movement. - this is where the bj adjustment is helpful.
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  #14  
Old 06-09-2010, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
On the other end of the blue circled rod, on the botton of the ball stud there is a 7 mm nut on a kidney slot. I think that's the one jt20 was talking about. Is that the other adjustment you are referring to? I'll play with it and see what it'll do.
I was saying what I did to mine. I loosend the 10mm Bolt the Red Arrow Points to and adjusted it to remove some slack.
The above adjustment is not for the Pedal. The Pedal Travel is adjusted between the Pedal and the Bell Crank.

Since I am posting I am going to add a pic of the Bell Crank. The Plastic Bushing (the plastic Ball) get crumbly and fall apart and the same with the rubber on the Front.
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adjusting go peddle linkages-bell-crank-throttle-bushing.jpg  

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