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#1
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adjusting go peddle linkages
It must be a reptilian response. When idiots tailgate me I just can't help it but pump the peddle to the mettle repeatedly to smoke-em and back-em off.
I have been doing this so often and with such force lately that I must have dislodged something in the linkages because the peddle response has been getting worse and worse, to the point the engine does not respond till the peddle has travelled 2". Very annoying to say the least. I just took off the first linkage rod (to the right of circled rod) from the peddle and also removed the cruise control rod and then worked the linkages to try and study how it actually operates. I made one adjustment: lengthening the rod (circled) by 3 turns of the ball end and went for a test drive and what a difference! Instant response! Don't know if what I did was correct per FSM but it sure made a big difference. Question: Should the IP limit stop be touching with throttle fully depressed or should there be a gap? If so, what is the gap?
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked Last edited by funola; 06-07-2010 at 01:03 PM. |
#2
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the lever should touch the stop bolt.
I don't think the rod lengths are the problem if the system was set up properly before. The longitudinal rod that comes from the firewall can be adjusted in a twisting motion. This compensates for the failing bushings on the throttle levers and on the firewall. |
#3
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Check the bushing on the firewall for any play.
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83 SD 84 CD |
#4
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i hope your not one of those people that likes to go < the speed limit in the hammer lane...
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1984 300TD "MAX" 303K+ still going... fast '70 Chevelle 200k+ home built Shovelhead chopper |
#5
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Quote:
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#6
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No, I cruise at 70 to 75 in 55 zone and that's normal for around here.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#7
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Quote:
Bear with me, I spent alot of time fiddling with this and may not be explaining it well... it is more complicated than it looks. assuming, at one point, that you could reach full throttle coming from the proper resting position; it is more beneficial to adjust the ball joints that the rods snap onto. Changing the one (bj) on the valve cover under the bowden cable adjusts the swept length (or radius) of the entire assembly. ie.. moving the bj away from firewall allows you to reach full throttle sooner. if you change the rod lengths, you may not hit full throttle at the time you reach the kickdown switch with the pedal |
#8
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Quote:
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#9
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the fsm is totally useless on the issue.
....ha! this IS my writeup. |
#10
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ha ha keep writing then.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#11
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In the pic where the Red Arrow points there is a 10mm Blot. Loosen that and there is a Kidney slot for adjustment.
When I did mine I adjusted that 10mm Bolt, The Rod attached to that Arm and the Rod going down to the IP Throttle Arm. There is also an adjustment coming up from the Acceleratoro Pedal to the Bell Crank but on mine there was no more adjustment left. Now that I am reading this I am wondering if there is anything on the Accelerator Pedal that wears out also?
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#12
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On the other end of the blue circled rod, on the botton of the ball stud there is a 7 mm nut on a kidney slot. I think that's the one jt20 was talking about. Is that the other adjustment you are referring to? I'll play with it and see what it'll do.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#13
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he is referring to what was mentioned in post #2
you already said that your pedal would bottom out before full throttle (I assumed) despite its early engagement of the longitudinal rod. Changing that setting will not help. It will only effect the range of pedal travel with respect to the floor. you need to work on rod length or the ratio between pedal movement versus throttle movement. - this is where the bj adjustment is helpful. |
#14
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Quote:
The above adjustment is not for the Pedal. The Pedal Travel is adjusted between the Pedal and the Bell Crank. Since I am posting I am going to add a pic of the Bell Crank. The Plastic Bushing (the plastic Ball) get crumbly and fall apart and the same with the rubber on the Front.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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