Injector Removal DIY - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

JHZR2 · #1 06-07-2010, 10:09 PM

Since I bought the tools and had not done it before, I figured I'd take pictures and do a little DIY for the injector removal process. It is pretty easy, but all the same, pictorials do help.

I used:
-Hazet injector socket (likely not needed)
-Hazet injector line removal tool
-1/2" drive ratchet
-short and long extension
-impact wrench

I used the impact gun at the advisement of the posters in my earlier thread on how long it would take to remove them. They do require a fair amount of torque, and I found that there was just too much slop using the socket, an extension and the ratchet, by popping the ratchet. A T-bar would be better, but since I have an impact gun for changing wheels, it really helped, and made it faster too!

Obviously these are the two items you want to work on:

You can use the hazet tool to remove injector lines. IMO this is the more important tool than the special socket, which plenty of folks have claimed works fine with a regular one of the appropriate size.

Despite having the special socket, I used a razor and cut the return hoses just above the barbs. This way there was no chance of any damage, since there is rubber protecting them:

Now, this is where the special tool comes in handy - it is easy to remove the lines with them all connected and attached together.

So I could remove the "spider" all together. No need to label lines:

I tried to use my ratchet, but there was too much slop. Since it was recommended to "pop" the injectors out vice putting constant torque on, I went and got my impact gun. It actually took a fair amount of impacting (and I have a pretty heavy-duty gun) to get the injectors loose. However, at least I wasnt torquing them from all different angles.

From there, they can come right out!

Mine were all wet. Be careful with the diesel that will run out, and keeping grit out of the prechamber holes. I found that most were wet with fuel, and some had grit in there too.

I would say that if you have a bad hood liner, replace it and vacuum/blow off the engine before doing this. That junk can get all over!

Hope this helps. It was an easy job with the right tools!

vstech · #2 06-07-2010, 10:51 PM

wow, great job! great pics!
I REALLY want one of those line wrenches!!!

Diesel911 · #3 06-08-2010, 12:44 AM

The Line Wrench (I have one that came in a lot of tools I bought on Ebay) is nice but I have seen them break before. And, your Heart rellay sinks when that happens.

If you have never had the Hard Lines loose on your Car the first time you loosen them use a 17mm Flare Nut Wrench or a Flare Nut Crows foot. After that you can use the Hazet Line Wrench all you want.

If you insist on using only the Line Wrench keep an eye on the jaws of the Wrench and if jaws start to spread stop and use another wrench.

Other than the above the Hazet Line Wrench is one of the tools I always keep in my Tool box of frequently used tools and it does make the job a little easier.

I have been using the same a Craftsman 12 point 1-1/16" Deep Socket since 1975 on Injectors and other things and it has never failed.
For those who want the Hazet Performance the Craftsman did not cost much and still works.
Since it is deep all the way to the bottom like the Hazet one it has never bent any return nipples.

Cr from Texas · #4 06-08-2010, 02:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

I have been using the same a Craftsman 12 point 1-1/16" Deep Socket since 1975 on Injectors and other things and it has never failed.
For those who want the Hazet Performance the Craftsman did not cost much and still works.
Since it is deep all the way to the bottom like the Hazet one it has never bent any return nipples.

I've also had several years of success with a Craftsman 1-1/16" but mine (and I prefer) is a 6 point. I worry less about rounding a nut with 6 point wrenches.

JHZR2 · #5 06-08-2010, 08:16 AM

Yeah, keeping the hoses over he barbs on the return lines, I really do not see a reason for a special socket.

Crazy_Nate · #6 06-08-2010, 08:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JHZR2

Yeah, keeping the hoses over he barbs on the return lines, I really do not see a reason for a special socket.

It has a purpose...especially when you can't find the ol' Craftsman deep socket. My new one (Craftsman 1 1/16" deep socket) isn't deep enough.

The hazet tool is on my shopping list

funola · #7 06-08-2010, 09:38 AM

I have a HF deep impact socket set that goes up to 30 mm. The 27 mm socket in the set is 27 mm deep all the way and works perfect for the injectors.

Diesel911 · #8 06-08-2010, 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JHZR2

Yeah, keeping the hoses over he barbs on the return lines, I really do not see a reason for a special socket.

Well I undrstand buying the Hazet socket to a point. He simply wanted a high quality tool.

Since this Thread got me thinking about Injector Sockets I bought one at the local tool outlet for less than $5. A Calhawk Deep Impact Socket.

Since I only bought it a few hours ago I have not tried it out yet but It looks like it ought to work OK. See pics.

The top of the Injector does go though and rest on the 1/2 inch drive. So I suppose there is a slight chance that it could bugger the lip around the threaded area where the Hard Lines go.

In the pic you can see the Craftsman Socket is longer but that both sockets easly grip the Injector Hex with room to spare.
I think I will cut out a circular piece of rubber and insert it into the Impact socket to prevent any Metal to Metal contact at the top.

In the last pic you can see it is deep all the way to the end and that will prevent the Return Line Nipples from getting buggered up.

Diesel911 · #9 06-08-2010, 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crazy_Nate

It has a purpose...especially when you can't find the ol' Craftsman deep socket. My new one (Craftsman 1 1/16" deep socket) isn't deep enough.

The hazet tool is on my shopping list

I do not know if the number is still current since I bought my socket a long time ago, but the part number on my Craftsman Socket is #47532 (for a 1-1/16" one 1/2" drive).
The overall length is 3-1/4 inches.

Crazy_Nate · #10 06-08-2010, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

I do not know if the number is still current since I bought my socket a long time ago, but the part number on my Craftsman Socket is #47532 (for a 1-1/16" one 1/2" drive).

I had part numbers from this forum written down when I went shopping @ Sears...unfortunately, I couldn't find that particular socket, and the one I gambled on wasn't deep enough.

I sure wish it was... I'll definitely have a deep enough tool for when I replace my injectors

Diesel911 · #11 06-08-2010, 06:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crazy_Nate

I had part numbers from this forum written down when I went shopping @ Sears...unfortunately, I couldn't find that particular socket, and the one I gambled on wasn't deep enough.

I sure wish it was... I'll definitely have a deep enough tool for when I replace my injectors

I think we have all bought stuff like that.
I added this to my post; the over all length is 3-1/4 inches

Right now I am also on the Sears sight just to see what they actually have now.

JHZR2 · #12 06-08-2010, 08:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

Well I undrstand buying the Hazet socket to a point. He simply wanted a high quality tool.

"He" you refer to was acrtually me... I got the socket because someone on cl was getting rid of a bunch of tools. I got a deal - and while I like quality tools, in reality I just got it along with everything else.

I did find it because I was searching for sockets, but in hindsight I still don't necessarily really see the need if a standard available item works. The barbs just aren't an issue if you leave the hoses on a bit, IMHO.

warmblood58 · #13 06-08-2010, 09:39 PM

Just did this job and found that crow foot does just fine. Btw, I loosen the injector line brackets slightly so that lines have movement while still remaining "ganged" together -refitting is very easy this way. Good time to take a compression test when performing this job and I released pressure on system first by loosening banjo fittings at filter. New heat shields are imperative, in fact I keep them new on hand for future injector work. For those of you driving around on ancient injectors of unknown mileage, bite the bullet and buy new nozzles, and have them calibrated for correct pop pressure and spray pattern -you will be amazed! This is a very satisfying job where you can truly feel the results! Good luck!

Diesel911 · #14 06-09-2010, 12:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JHZR2

"He" you refer to was acrtually me... I got the socket because someone on cl was getting rid of a bunch of tools. I got a deal - and while I like quality tools, in reality I just got it along with everything else.

I did find it because I was searching for sockets, but in hindsight I still don't necessarily really see the need if a standard available item works. The barbs just aren't an issue if you leave the hoses on a bit, IMHO.

There is at least 1 member who bought the Hazet Injector socket because he wanted to have an exceptional tool made for the job. Nothing wrong with that reason.

From the pic the Hazet Socket easily has twice + the wall thickness of the Craftsman one; so it is clearly stronger.

whunter · #15 12-20-2012, 02:53 AM

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