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Fuel Filter Housing Questions
Hey all,
My secondary filter housing is letting air into the system. After cleaning up the top of the housing and changing the crush washer and o-ring several times, I've decided to swap the housing with a newer style housing. The hollow bolt is shorter with TWO o-rings and there was no crush washer on it. While trying to remove the old housing, I stripped one of the cap screws. Now the questions: I'm going to try to use an easy-out to remove cap screw. If that doesn't work, what next? Is the housing mounted to part of the block? It is hard to tell without removing the cruise control. Obviously using a torch to heat up the cap screw is out of the question with all that fuel around. The o-rings on the newer model I got are flattened. Are these o-rings supposed to have flat edges or are they just old and worn out? I looked for replacements on fastlane but didn't have any luck. Thanks in advance, Brad
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Brad 1981 300TD - daily driver 1963 Chevy II 2001 F-250 7.3 Power Stroke |
#2
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The O-rings are supposed to have a round cross section.
If you degrease that area you plan to work on and tie back the Fuel Hoses there should be little danger of Fire. The broken Capscrews/Bolts that hold the Filter Housing down might benefit from the use of a left hand Drill bit if you have a Drill Motor that can rotate either way. You might find that the heat caused by the drilling process and the counterclockwise rotation might unscrew the broken piece during the drilling. Not being able to drill a hole drectly down the center reduces the chance of the Ezie Out working. Ezie Outs work best with the correct sized drill. The Spiral Ezie Outs tend to expand the piece you are working on. Small diameter Ezie Outs break of easily.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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The part that the Filter Housing Bolts onto on my 84 300D is a Separate Bracket.
If there is enough metal and you can actuall drill through the broken of piece somtime it is easier to go the next size larger in bolts and drill and tap to that size.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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The cap screw is not broken yet so tomorrow I'm going to try the ez-out. If that doesn't work, I guess I'll drill off the head and pull off the housing and go from there. Hopefully the ac bracket will move enough for me to raise up the filter housing to get to the bolt.
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Brad 1981 300TD - daily driver 1963 Chevy II 2001 F-250 7.3 Power Stroke |
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Mine was cracked imperceptibly. I chased that gremlin for 4 months before the injection mechanic suggested the housing as the culprit. Apparently, some gorilla-like installer (see avatar) got a little too happy once-upon-a-time when changing the secondary filter cartridge. Pulled one off a 603 at pick and pull and problem was solved. Not the same part on your engine, but I would guess made from a very similar casting.
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327K on 1986 W201, 602.911, 722.414 2.5 190D ("The Red Baron") 139K on 1993 W124, 104.942, 722.433 2.8 300E ("Queen") http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4081/...0bb92d3c_m.jpg http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/o...g?t=1325284354 Do not worry about your difficulties in Mathematics. I can assure you mine are still greater. - Albert Einstein take a walk down memory lane... |
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Quote:
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Brad 1981 300TD - daily driver 1963 Chevy II 2001 F-250 7.3 Power Stroke |
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If the Capscrew is still there give it a sharp rap on top with a light weight hammer or place a Punch and a Regular Hammer about the size of a Claw Hammer you would use for driving a nail. Even better if the Punch is Brass.
When I was at the Junk Yard I actually snapped off my Allen Socket trying to remove a Filter Housing. I gave both tops of the Capscrew Head a light rap with the small Ball Peen hammer I had and I was able to remove them with no further problem. When I worked at the Navel Shipyard it was a common pratice to hit the heads of the Bolts or the flats of Nuts to help free them up a little. Not elegant but it works. Also I did not know you were speaking of the external typ Ezie Outs. Let us know if it works. I bought a set but have never had to use it yet. I wish they had them back when I was working as a Mechanic!
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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Yeah - I tried the tapping on top of the cap screw, but it didn't work. Now the good news - I drilled off the head, ground a drill bit backwards, drilled counter clock wise and the rest of the bolt came right out. The housing was the source of the air leak. I'm sure I could use new o-rings on the bolt though. Part numbers anyone? If not, I'm sure the dealership can look them up.
Thanks everyone! Brad
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Brad 1981 300TD - daily driver 1963 Chevy II 2001 F-250 7.3 Power Stroke |
#9
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Mercedes (FREE) Electronic Parts Catalog
http://epc.startekinfo.com/epc/subscribe.jsp
They'll ask for a U.S. based credit card #, to prove you're their customer. (No Charges to the Card ,However) Why TRUST the Dealership? Look up your own Parts @ your leisure.
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
#10
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Any decent auto parts store should be able to match up a couple of "o" rings if you take the bolt there with you. Don
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Red Green "This is only temporary,Unless it works!" 97 E300D 157000 miles 87 300TD ?141k? miles |
#11
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Quote:
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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