Cracked oil pan! - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

LUVMBDiesels · #1 06-20-2010, 05:11 PM

The wife was driving me in Rudolf the SDL when I noticed the oil gauge fluctuating. We were near a COSTCO so we pulled in. I went around to the front and found a pool of oil under the car!
After shouting a few choice words, I went under the car with a rag and found a 1.5 inch long hairline crack in the front of the pan!

It looks like we must have hit something onthe highway - what it was I do not know and it cracked the pan!
I had Rudy towed home.

Here are my questions...

1) Can I pull the pan without pulling the engine?

2) Has anybody had luck welding a cracked pan?

3) Does anybody have a decent pan to sell?

4) Should I just drain it, spread some JB Weld on it and start prayin?

The engine runs fine and never totally lost oil pressure. He started right up to be moved onto the flatbed and to go up my driveway.

While the pan is off, should I replace the oil pump as a precation?

Thanks guys!

junqueyardjim · #2 06-20-2010, 05:23 PM

I have a cracked pan on my M103 that I repaired with JB weld and it is holding perfectly now for two years. But for an almost perfect repair and I think your pan is aluminum, you should get it welded. I think it might be possible to weld it while it is on the car, if he car reach it well with the heliarc torch. If that pan is the same as the M103 I have two, but I doubt they are the same.

LUVMBDiesels · #3 06-20-2010, 05:35 PM

Never thought of doing it ON the car! The crack is straight across the front of the pan, readily accessible from the front of the car...

I might do the JB Weld fix to get the car to the welder

Or just try it and see if it holds for a while...

Thanks,!!
Joe

Jeremy5848 · #4 06-20-2010, 06:13 PM

Not being a welder, I cannot give an expert opinion, but I have heard that aluminum and its alloys tend to be porous and absorb tiny amounts of oil into their structure. This makes it difficult to get a good weld joint. I would not try to weld the pan with oil in it.

Since the pan is not a moving part, I would drain the oil, clean the cracked area with every solvent I can find, and try the JB Weld method. At this point you can't make it worse.

LUVMBDiesels · #5 06-20-2010, 07:45 PM

I drained the oil and sanded the area with 80 grit. Then I hit it with the JB Weld.
I will leave the pan empty until next weekend to let it cure.

Hope it holds

RAYMOND485 · #6 06-20-2010, 09:14 PM

1984 300D TURBO 152K
ORDER A NEW OIL PAN, NEW GASKET AND NEW OIL PLUG THIS SITE

LUVMBDiesels · #7 06-20-2010, 09:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RAYMOND485

1984 300D TURBO 152K
ORDER A NEW OIL PAN, NEW GASKET AND NEW OIL PLUG THIS SITE

I would but those parts are almost $500!

Palangi · #8 06-20-2010, 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LUVMBDiesels

I would but those parts are almost $500!

Holy Komodo !!!!!

I'm gonna go out and kiss my OM617.

Oil pan was about $40 on that engine.

gisnar · #9 06-20-2010, 10:17 PM

Having done a lot of AL welding, the first question is what is the alloy of the pan. Is it a weldable alloy? An easy way to tell is if it has a weld on it somewhere. Lets assume it is. To get a good weld the crack should have a v ground into it and it needs to be absolutly clean. Not even a trace of oil to get a good weld. Thus, to do in correctly remove the pan and get it spotlessly clean. If you are in the Reno area I am happy to do it for you. Just my $.02.

Diesel911 · #10 06-21-2010, 01:14 AM

Most Welders will not touch Welding somthing that has held oil or Fuel and is enclosed and coated with oily residue. The reason is the heat of the Welding vaporizes the residue and there is a really good of the same heat igniting it and causing an explosion.

It is gotten away with some times but you can stop by any Welding Shop and ask them from some stories were people have not gotten away with it.

I have even been told of a Differential exploding and in the tale the area being welded was near the Wheel End not the middle of the Differential. So they though they could get away with it thinking all the Oil is in the Middle. Surprise.

If the whole item is cleand an degreased then there is no problem.

Cr from Texas · #11 06-21-2010, 01:18 AM

JB Weld after draining oil and cleaning with brake cleaner worked for me on an 84 325e BMW that got hit hard and was leaking. Held for the 5 years we had the car after the hit. Pretty sure it was aluminum.

LUVMBDiesels · #12 06-21-2010, 06:39 AM

The listing for the pan...

Select Part Number Catalog Description Your Price

OES Genuine

W0133-1598665

Oil Pan $449.46

I have done the JB Weld thing in the past but not on an oil pan. I am hoping the extended curing time and the rough surface will do the trick!

If not, does the engine have to come out to get the pan to clear the sub frame? I am hoping not as my engine hoist is in storage and I really do not want to open that can of worms!

Bill Ladd · #13 06-21-2010, 08:27 AM

I've taken them out in situ before. Remove lower motor mount bolts, lift engine from top. It's tight but definitely doable.

My '86 has a JB-welded pan. Still holding well.