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  #16  
Old 06-28-2010, 08:30 AM
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I myself would not attempt a repair,a lot of power running through the switch and if it went wrong internally again then there is a very high possibility of a fire,and by the time an under dash fire is noticed it is way to late to save the car.

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  #17  
Old 06-28-2010, 09:52 AM
C Sean Watts's Avatar
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Personal experience with Uro brand parts...

inferior and best avoided.
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1987 300D (230,000 mi on a #14 head-watching the temp gauge and keeping the ghost in the machine)
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  #18  
Old 06-28-2010, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy5848 View Post
There is some problem tonight with the Allpartsexpress site . . . all it lists for the '87 300D is Accessories & Hardware, Brake Components & Wheels, and
Chemicals. I'll try again tomorrow.
The 300D shows about 3 things. go to the 300DT, next line down, it has the whole list. I thought that weard too.

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #19  
Old 06-28-2010, 11:57 AM
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Location: Sonoma Wine Country
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Wierd indeed!

Quote:
Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
The 300D shows about 3 things. go to the 300DT, next line down, it has the whole list. I thought that weard too.

Charlie
Interesting. It's a title error - the 300D should not be titled "Turbo" since it refers to the NA version (which rarely shows up in the US of A). As you say, the next car listed, the 300DT, is the "real" turbo model and it's there that I found the complete list. Thanks, Charlie.

Sean, I've had good luck so far with Uro parts but still find myself worrying and wishing I'd bought the factory part. [Uro or similar parts on my '87: fan clutch, vacuum pump.] We shall see -- 15,000 trouble-free miles and two years on both parts so far.

Jeremy
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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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  #20  
Old 07-16-2010, 05:47 PM
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Location: Sonoma Wine Country
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Problem update

The problem as originally described is getting worse. I have definitely traced it to the ignition switch; wiggling the key cures it "until next time" but "next time" comes sooner and sooner. Affected are the windows, seats, sunroof, radio, and everything else powered through circuit 15R. I suspect that the contacts for that circuit have become corroded or burned over the years.

I have a new factory switch and have just gotten some practice working on a similar car ('90 300E) in the local wrecking yard. Since I did not have a key for the junkyard car, I couldn't turn the switch to "position 1." That may have been why I was unable to remove the switch from the back of the steering lock assembly. It's also pretty crowded back there.

If I have to remove the entire assembly, so be it. It will require removing the instrument cluster and the driver's lower dash panel. I'll post pictures.

EDIT

Getting ready to attempt the installation, posting some pictures of the new ignition switch (actually called "S2/2 glow/starter switch" by Mercedes) and the location of the installation instructions in the FSM.

The FSM considers the ignition switch to be part of the complete steering lock assembly so of course the R&R instructions are in the "Body" section of the FSM under "Steering." In the CD-ROM version of the FSM, Section 46-8010 has six pages on "Removing and installing the steering lock complete."

A key item for anyone like me who just wants to remove the ignition switch is a little paragraph hidden down at the bottom of the fifth page: "The . . . glow/starter switch (S2/2) can also be removed/installed when the steering lock is installed using a short screwdriver." [my emphasis] I assume the "short screwdriver" is necessary because there's not a lot of room with the steering lock in its place on the steering column.

If I read this correctly, the complete steering lock does not have to be removed. It's not clear whether the lock cylinder can also be left in place, with the key turned to position "1." I'm prepared to R&R the lock cylinder if necessary, having installed the current cylinder only a couple of years ago.

In the pictures, notice that one of the three screw recesses is square, the others round (the three screws are removed with the "short screwdriver"). Also, see the little tab protruding from the aluminum housing in the second picture. Proper orientation is essential when installing the switch into the steering lock.

Jeremy
Attached Thumbnails
W124 Ignition Switch - Take Apart and Repair?-switch_4460.jpg   W124 Ignition Switch - Take Apart and Repair?-switch_4461.jpg  
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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970

Last edited by Jeremy5848; 07-16-2010 at 09:16 PM. Reason: Add pictures
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  #21  
Old 07-17-2010, 08:07 PM
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Success!

The new glow/starter switch is in and working. I'll post a DIY with pictures as a separate thread but will mention a few notes here.

1. It's not necessary to pull the instrument cluster. All the work is done from below after pulling the driver's lower dash panel.

2. While the FSM says the ignition switch can be removed from the steering lock assembly with the lock in place, I'd now say it is not worth the effort -- you must remove several other items to get working room so you might as well pull the lock and be done with it.

3. The new switch and the old one carry the same part number (202 545 01 04) the brand-name symbol "LK" in a circle, and "W.-Germany." Truly NOS!

4. It's convenient but not necessary to remove the steering wheel. I did only because I was installing a new-to-me one, a leather-wrapped wheel from a '90 300E. Car handles much better with the leather wheel, gets more miles per gallon of diesel, and the spark plugs last longer!

Edit:

I took the old switch apart. Several of the contacts are fried, with 15R being the worst. I'm sure that's the cause of the problem I was having. Although it might be possible to clean up the contacts, one never knows if they have a hardened surface that would be removed. As Murkybenz writes, a hazardous situation might be created. Given the low cost of even the factory switch ($35), it's not worth the work or the risk.

Jeremy
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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970

Last edited by Jeremy5848; 07-18-2010 at 12:21 AM.
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  #22  
Old 08-09-2010, 08:38 PM
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Sorry to jump in (especially this late).

I have been through all of this and decided to get a replacement URO switch about a year ago. (Meanwhile I fixed the old original one).

If you bought an URO switch it will last for about 500 miles. It will go bad. First the "RUN only" (A/C) and then the RUN+START (instruments, etc.). I do hope you got the original part. As replacing this switch is a real PITA, if you decided to buy the URO, then do yourself a favor and put in 3 relays for the 3 contacts in the fuse box.

(BTW: do not ever buy any ball joints from URO,eurospar, etc. , their rubber boots will disintegrate due to oil incompatibility before you have even installed them.)
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My former Mercedes:
1985 300SD ~190k
1990 560SEL
2000 C220 CDI
1983 380SEC 102k dual-chain conversion
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1987 300DT (W124 - sold)
1972 220D (sold)
1971 220D (sold)

Last edited by GregZ; 08-09-2010 at 08:58 PM.
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  #23  
Old 08-09-2010, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregZ View Post
Sorry to jump in (especially this late).

I have been through all of this and decided to get a replacement URO switch about a year ago. (Meanwhile I fixed the old original one).

If you bought an URO switch it will last for about 500 miles. It will go bad. First the "RUN only" (A/C) and then the RUN+START (instruments, etc.). I do hope you got the original part. As replacing this switch is a real PITA, if you decided to buy the URO, then do yourself a favor and put in 3 relays for the 3 contacts in the fuse box.

(BTW: do not ever buy any ball joints from URO,eurospar, etc. , their rubber boots will disintegrate due to oil incompatibility before you have even installed them.)

x2, I replaced all the tierod end and center link boots after about 10k miles. I got oem boots from APE
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  #24  
Old 09-28-2010, 09:14 PM
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Location: Sonoma Wine Country
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Exclamation Follow-up: Wasn't the switch!!!

The problem came back -- all of the accessories on the 15R circuit would occasionally stop working, even with a brand-new factory switch ("Made in W. Germany" no less). I discovered that wiggling the key in and out, rather than back and forth, would eventually get things to working again.

I pulled the assembly and looked at the electrical plug that pushes onto the switch, thought I saw some tarnish on the silver-plated connector pins. Cleaned the pins with Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish and q-tips. So far it is working.

BTW, when you replace the switch assembly, make sure you get the vacuum lines on the right way. I reversed mine and discovered that the car wouldn't start. It would crank but the engine wouldn't fire. Turned out I had reversed the lines, which kept vacuum on the IP's "off" solenoid all the time.

Jeremy
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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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  #25  
Old 06-23-2023, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy5848 View Post
The problem came back -- all of the accessories on the 15R circuit would occasionally stop working, even with a brand-new factory switch ("Made in W. Germany" no less). I discovered that wiggling the key in and out, rather than back and forth, would eventually get things to working again.

I pulled the assembly and looked at the electrical plug that pushes onto the switch, thought I saw some tarnish on the silver-plated connector pins. Cleaned the pins with Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish and q-tips. So far it is working.
@Jeremy5848, did cleaning the connector pins end up being the long-term permanent cure? Also, was the tarnish on the female pins inside the connector?


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