Clutch Bleeding ,the best technique Ive seen yet.
 

yeah, but an oil can???

SNAPON has them for $300,the time it took was less than a minute ,what a time saver.

I have read the oil can method a few times here on the forum, first time I`ve seen it done.

Might be a good idea to flush from the top down if doing this on a used system, other wise all the old dirt, crap, and contaminates are being pushed into the reservor.

I would use my Motive power bleeder first on the brakes and clutch to flush out the old fluid. then use the oil can method on the clutch to push the air up and out.

These MB clutches can cause hair loss trying to bleed them :rolleyes:.
I thought I would never get it bled, tried every method mentioned, FSM etc.... wish I had thought or remembered reading this method before.

Charlie

This is simple, effective, cheap. GREAT!

I like it because it looks like you can do everything from under the car, oil can in one hand and wrench in the other:P

Man, I wish I had this last weekend!

Oh well, the 240d is at the farm now in a much easier place to work on. I'll take a new oil can up there with me next time.

Fill the slave before you install it and you don't need to bleed at all! It really is just as simple as that!:cool:

The method of pressure bleeding from the front brake caliper is most unsatisfactory for a number of reasons:

a) You are filling the clutch system with dirty fluid from the caliper.

b) As the front of the slave is inclined upwards on level ground (much worse on ramps) an air bubble is trapped at the front of the cyl. not purged when bleeding and can remain there giving a soft low pedal.

c) The whole procedure is a time consuming P.I.T.A. and completely unnecessary.

There is a much easier and quicker way to R & R and bleed the slave cyl.

1) Remove clutch feed pipe from brake M/C and drain reservoir. Replace feed pipe and refill to max with new fluid.

2) Remove pipe from slave cyl. and cap the pipe end with one of the bleed nipple rubber cups.

3) Undo bolts and remove slave.

To re-insall:

1)Thoroughly bench-bleed the slave leaving the push rod fully extended. Ensure all bubbles are out and fluid is filled level with the top of the pipe connection.

2) Remove the rubber cup and let at least an eggcup full of fluid drain down to replace old fluid in clutch M/C and then tighten pipe connection. Don’t pump the pedal!.

3)As the piston is pushed back in as you bolt the slave back on any air still in the pipe is pushed back up and through the M/C. Let it stand at least 15 mins before pumping pedal slowly.

4) Top up the reservoir and you’re done!

If fitting new slave and M/C:
1a) After fitting new clutch M/C, re-set pedal free play. Before connecting pipe to slave, fill res. and when fluid is running right through, cap pipe end as before. Let it stand for 10 to 15 min and gravity does the job. DON’T pump the pedal! Reconnect slave as in (2) and (3).]

The system is self-bleeding anyway but the trick is to get all the air out of the slave piston before re-installing it.

Just BTW...... this method and procedure works equally well on the brake hydraulic circuit.
This method and procedure works equally well on the brake hydraulic circuit.
I.E.. - You can R & R the brake M/C or a caliper without having to open any bleed valves or re-bleed the whole system.

Example:-
R&R Brake M/C:
After replacing and reconnecting the bench bled M/C push a caliper piston in a few mm on both front and one rear wheel to push the air bubble trapped in the loop of the pipe into the M/C and then you’re done!

R&R a Caliper:
Cap pipe end with a bleed nipple rubber cup when removing caliper/s. Keep Res. topped up! Bench bleed with flex hose attached and with the piston on the bleeder side left at least 6mm out - but I guess you'd figure that!.
Pressure bleed by pushing the caliper piston back in once reinstalled and you’re done.

It is useful to have a few screw plugs for pipe fittings to keep fluid in and dirt and air out when refitting bench bled parts. A small can with a 2ft length of old brake pipe soldered in the bottom works well for gravity bench bleeding if you are doing a lot of this sort of work.

Corrosion is the result of water condensation in the air space in the reservoir being absorbed by brake fluid and settling in the lowest areas of the system. By keeping the reservoir topped up well above the max. level, air space (and thereby condensation) is reduced to an absolute minimum inhibiting corrosion.

Have a nice day.

Beagle

Beagle, I would agree with you on one point - there is no harm (and perhaps a lot gained) by bench bleeding the components prior to installing them. Having said that, I think the method in the video would be easier and faster than your approach. Also, I recently did the RF brake caliper method - all you need to do to avoid pumping crappy old fluid through your clutch hyraulics is to first attach your hose to the brake caliper, let the other end drain into container, and then pump the brake pedal until clean fluid comes through (prior to that, of course, you remove the old fluid from the resevoir and refill with new). That methods seems to have done the trick for me. Fearing that I might have trouble with the caliper method, I actually picked up a garden sprayer at the store just in case I needed a cheap way to force fluid up from the bottom. Ended up not needing it, however, after watching the video, the oil can sounds like a better choice. I guess it depends on how much an oil can costs ya, I pick up the sprayer for less than $10.

It works! It took longer to cut the 5/16 fuel hose and get setup than the actual bleeding process .Cost was :cool:$7 for the oil can and $2 for 2 ft of 5/16 fuel hose.Any shorter piece and your having to hold the can up while unwrenching the bleeder screw.Took some fluid out of the resorvoir and then started underneath the car with the 10 once oil can full of brake fluid.Around 30 half strokes and the clutch was good .It probably will take more if the system is completely open .I had tried to bleed it from the top at first with poor results, this method rocks .

I did this out of necessity due to the mighty vac not working and only having an oil can laying around. I didn't have a you tube video but tried to explain it the best I could in several past posts.

I've done 2 slave cylinders and a master cylinder cheap and works every time. When the system was leaking I honed my skills in this method.

On mine I use a clear hose to see if I'm introducing any air while pumping.
If pumped fast tiny air bubbles will go into the system. I also use a bigger oil can , who wants to squeeze under a 240 a second time.

Just did my wagon's brake fluid, a friend's 1995 E320, my brothers 2000 VW Passat, and my brothers VW Jetta TDI (Manual) with my new Motive Pressure bleeder. Everything worked perfectly. Save yourself some time and headache and do it right. This may work in a pinch, but as far as flushing a system, I agree that it should be pushed out of the bleeders at each calliper/slave cylinder nipple.

Out with the old, in with the new is right .The new replaced master and slave cylinders that was performed made a good reason to flush the whole brake system while I was at it .Thanks for pointing out the rights and wrongs.

Here is a thread where I read about using the oil can method.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/487380-post19.html

Charlie