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What to look out for in an old 300TD (77-82)?
Hi everyone, I want to buy a 300TD (wagon), I can fix just about anything (so far) on gas engined cars, but I'm ignorant of the more advanced aspects of diesels and turbo diesels, especially relating to MBs.
For starters: 1.What is the average lifespan of a D motor? a TD motor? 2.What should I watch out for when I'm checking one over? 3.Do the TDs ever come with manual transmission? 4.How long do the autos usually last? 5. I was reading the posts and it appears thhese cars use some kind of hydrolic levelling system, is this true of all late '70s early 80's MBs? What are the problems here? 6.Someone told me the late seventies/early eighties wagons were the best. Is this true? (I suspect a can of worms has just been opened) 6.Any other tips/suggestions? |
#2
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1. As with any engine, it is determined by how it is cared for and driven. 200,000 is typically very easily achieved. 350,000 is not out of the question.
2. All the wagons are five cylinders. See that it is not using oil. If there is much oil in the air filter, it probably means excessive blow by. It would be very worthwhile to have a compression check done. These engines can be very long lived if properly taken care of, but are VERY expensive to overhaul or replace. The '80 and earlier models have challenging climate control systems. Most of the wagons are the later models though. 3. None of the US wagon models were shipped with manual transmissions. 4. Again, as with any car it is determined by care and driving habits. My 240D has over a half million miles on it. My daughters 300D had to have an engine overhaul at 200,000. Your concern should focus more on the condition of the particular car you are looking at. 5. The leveling system on the wagons is simpler than many people think. Make sure that the car you buy has the system in good shape then just keep it maintained. The common problem is a control link on the rear sway bar slips and causes the level to set too low. When this happens, many people start looking for bad components and don't know to adjust the link. This has caused the leveling system to get a bad reputation. 6. Each model has it's advantages and disadvantages. Again, you are talking about a used car. Condition is paramount to everything else. 7. Do your best to find out whether or not the engine uses oil. Remember that there are people that will look you straight in the eye and lie to you. There is a drip tube that comes from the oil separator in the air cleaner down to a fitting on the oil pan near the alternator. If that is leaking oil on the ground when you shut it off, it is probably a worn out oil burner. Best of luck, |
#3
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Patrick:
The biggest problem you will face is finding one that isn't rusty. German cars don't like salt -- and the leaking window seal thing will get you in Canada -- once the salt gets inside, the floors will go, ditto for firewall due to sunroof drains. Otherwise, Larry has covered the salient points! If you can find one that has been properly cared for, undercoated or oiled properly every winter and kept washed, you can expect similar life to Volvos with the exception that MBs will rust more easily. My boss at FCOR in Sault Ste. Marie had a 1968 245 that the OPP made him stop driving in 1991! Still ran fine, but you could see the road through the rear windows.......! Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
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