Seperation of Lower Ball Joint from LCA
 

Well, if I tell you seperating the lower ball joint from the lower control arm can be areal PITA, I won't be telling you anything new. But, you know what, it really is. Nevertheless, I managed to do it - finally. (Now on to getting the ball joint out of the steering knuckle! :rolleyes:)

Anyway, I wanted to share how I finally managed to get them seperated. Actually, I got the idea from here: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/46224-lower-ball-joint-real-pain-please-read.html?highlight=ball+joint+lower

I believe it is post # 9 on that thread where William Rogers talks about using a pickle fork to get the job done. The problem with using a pickle fork on this job is that: 1) the tines can be a little too long and 2) the width of the fork isn't quite enough to really seperate these two. So, what Will brilliantly suggested (it's one of those, I can't believe I didn't think of that moments :rolleyes:) was inserting an open end wrench (about 1" wide) in between the ball joint and LCA and THEN pounding in the pickle fork.

Oh man, that was all it took. I had read about the two hammer method and had used a floor jack underneath the LCA while pounding down on the ball joint stud (if you try that screw on the old nut first). Those are both great ideas, but I just couldn't get them to work. Regarding the two hammer method - I just couldn't really get at the end of the LCA with both hammers (its stuck back in the knuckle there and is real hard to get at). With the floor jack under the LCA method - I was getting too much bounce when I smacked the ball joint stud, so the force wasn't really being focused like it needed to.

But then I read Will's idea and I realized that it was going to work. To be fair, the method that is going to work for you is probably dependant on what stage of disassembly you are at. To get wrench/pickle fork method to work for me, I completely removed the steering knuckle with LCA still attached. Then I placed the rotor face down (wedged between two section of 4"X4" wood) so and held the LCA up (perpendicular to the ground) - that way I could wedge the wrench and pickle fork DOWN in between the LCA and ball joint and smack on it with my 8lb sledge. I was actually able to just use one hand on the hammer and with about six whacks they popped apart.

Just thought I would share since it worked well for me. Now on to removing the ball joint from the knuckle :o.

Use a socket or drift and pound the joint out of the LCA. It comes out pretty easy.
Use this tool to remove the upper ball joint, screw the nut up to protect the threads:
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-point-joint-separator-99849.html

There are plenty of posts on how to use the Autozone rental to insert the new ball joint.

Danny

I suspect that you mean "steering knuckle" instead of "LCA."

Pretty sure he means LCA

um, the ball joint in question has already been disconnected from the LCA, now the joint needs to be removed from the steering knuckle... the ball joint on MB cars are pressed into the knuckle, not the LCA...

You are right; he might have meant LCA. But he should have said "steering knuckle."

If you think that pounding the ball joint out of the LCA with a socket is a recipe for success, you probably haven't tried it.

That varies by model. But, reading between the lines, the OP appears to be talking about his W123. My comments are based on that assumption.

good point, I also think it's the 240, not the E300 he is discussing...
good catch tango.

I was also trying to decide what car he was discussing, ... one of my (many) pet-peeves.

I'd assume the 123 since the '95 124 ball-joint should be welded to the a-arm.

Yeah, I know. I just rebuilt the front end on my SDL this Monday. Sounded to me like he was reiterating how to remove the steering knuckle from the car, since he was talking about removing the top ball joint. And you experienced guys all know the upper ball joint is never removed from upper control arm.

You do know that, right?

Why don't we wait for him to clarify, okay?

Did one Monday (third 126 complete front end rebuild I've done so far). One side popped out simply pounding on the threaded shaft of the balljoint. Driver's side I had to heat the control arm with a propane/oxy torch and wail on it like Thor with my pickle fork to get it separated.

So yeah, I've tried it.

Well, I didn't think this one would generate much response. Sorry if there was some confusion, I am talking about the 123 (240D) - my apologizes for not specifying that. The gist of the post was just share a method for separating the ball joint from the LCA. Again, there are several ways one could approach this, I was just having a difficult time with other methods on account of trying to work within the wheel well area. So, I removed the steering knuckle (with LCA still attached) from the car - that gave me plenty of room to work. Then I used the wrench + pickle fork method as described and it was darn easy. Maybe I can recreate the arrangement and post a couple pics - I always appreciate it when people have pics to go with an explanation.

Thanks for the tips on ball joint removal from the steering knuckle, I'll let you know how it goes.

Victory, at least so far. The HF pincher tool popped tie rod ends UBJ's from the steering knuckle and left LBJ from the LCA before stripping out on the right, which would not yield for love, money or air tools.

Wrench & pickle fork did not work wrench would bounce out. Pickle fork would not work by itself because you hit the knuckle before pickle fork is in far enough to part the joint.

Shortened the PF in 2 stages w/ a hacksaw so it could penetrate the joint far enough to part it, and not hit the knuckle on the far side. 1st cut, 3/8" off the sharp end, 2nd cut 1/4" off the end. Good hits w/ a 5 lb hammer and it's off.

Yeah, I had considered modifying the pickle fork in the manner you described, but then read about using the added wrench. I managed to get it to work because I had the steering knuckle removed from the car with LCA still attached - that way I could orient them any way I needed to. I was not having much luck until I configured it so that I was pounding down (instead of from the side) on the pickle fork - in that arrangment the wrench did not fall out. Glad you got them apart - pretty satisfying after you beat on them for a while.

You are separating a ball joint taper correct? I usually rig up an anvil of sorts to support the lower control arm, with the nut on the stud ( to protect and not mushroom the stud), hit it with a 5 lb hammer and it always separate. I don't like to use pickle forks becasue it chews up the boot.