Washable Air Filter and Intake Mod , With Larger Breather - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Brad123D · #16 03-06-2012, 02:54 PM

Festive looking oil separator. A Christmas cookie tin. I went with the plumbing theme for mine. The air filter looks like a good thing, I think I'll check that brand out as a spare for mine. We used similar clear tubing with the reinforcement in it.
A pic of my separator below. Made out of a 3" plumbing cleanout assembly and a cap(white PVC painted black) with fittings tapped and a filter/breather element inside. Residual oil runs out the clear tube on the bottom and drains back into the oil pan. My battery is in the trunk and I deleted the A/C. This car has almost 390K miles on it and "runs like a top".

Olivier · #17 03-07-2012, 10:45 AM

Hi Diesel911,

Nice MOD there, but there are alot who will disagree

about the the "hot air" will not improve performances...
I got a cone filter as well and its near the opening at the front of the car, then as soon as I move, cold air goes into it

I don't see any lack of performances and its a lot cheaper as washable

Last year in winter I had a shield directing cold air from outside and preventing the heat of the turbo getting into it, I found out that at -5 it was bad for the engine, especially as I run on mix WVO, I can only imagine near freezing air going into the prechamber while the oil is misty. EEK!
Then even if the air is a wee warmer with a cone filter, I think its all good

Olivier
PS: what was those adjustable boost control valves you were talking about? Are they OK with vaccum actuator? Cheers.

Diesel911 · #18 03-07-2012, 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Olivier

Hi Diesel911,

Nice MOD there, but there are alot who will disagree

about the the "hot air" will not improve performances...
I got a cone filter as well and its near the opening at the front of the car, then as soon as I mome, cold air goes into it

I don't see any lack of performances and its a lot cheaper as washable

Last year in winter I had a shield directing cold air from outside and preventing the heat of the turbo getting into it, I found out that at -5 it was bad for the engine, especially as I run on mix WVO, I can only imagine near freezing air going into the prechamber while the oil is misty. EEK!
Then even if the air is a wee warmer with a cone filter, I think its all good

Olivier
PS: what was those adjustable boost control valves you were talking about? Are they OK with vaccum actuator? Cheers.

I have disproved the Hot Air issue to my satisfaction (at least in S. CA where I live).

To summarize a test I did with a Digital Thermometer Probe under the Hood attached outside of the Metal Part of the Stock Air Filter Housing Inlet.

What I found is that as long as the Car is moving at even City Traffic speeds the under the Hood temp only rises about 5 degrees F higher than the outside temp.

However, when stopped at a long Traffic Signal the under the Hood temp shot up to 197 degrees F. But, who cares what temp the incoming Air is at idle speed.
As soon as you start moving the temp drops quickly.

If there is some sort of Belly Pan (none on my W123) I would expect the results to be different.

Olivier · #19 03-07-2012, 02:24 PM

I forgot, my middle belly pan is out too... then the air circulate

and my above quote should say:
As soon as I move... Not mome. oops... Oh dear...

Diesel911 · #20 03-07-2012, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Olivier

Hi Diesel911,

Nice MOD there, but there are alot who will disagree

about the the "hot air" will not improve performances...
I got a cone filter as well and its near the opening at the front of the car, then as soon as I move, cold air goes into it

I don't see any lack of performances and its a lot cheaper as washable

Last year in winter I had a shield directing cold air from outside and preventing the heat of the turbo getting into it, I found out that at -5 it was bad for the engine, especially as I run on mix WVO, I can only imagine near freezing air going into the prechamber while the oil is misty. EEK!
Then even if the air is a wee warmer with a cone filter, I think its all good

Olivier
PS: what was those adjustable boost control valves you were talking about? Are they OK with vaccum actuator? Cheers.

I am not sure what function Vacuum Actuator has. I do not believe my Car has one.
I bought a Boost Controller similar to the one at the site below:

UNIVERSAL ADJUSTABLE RACING TURBO 30 PSI MANUAL BOOST BYPASS CONTROLLER KIT RED | eBay

I believe it is only useful on applications where the Waste Gate along with the Intake Manifold pressure is the only thing that controls the Boost Pressure.
Meaning there is nothing Computer or Electronically controlled.

I believe it is simply a Spring loaded Valve. You can adjust the pressure as to when the Valve opens and allows that pressure to open the Waste Gate.
This is useful if you cannot adjust your Waste Gate and your Waste Gate is opening too low of a pressure.

Diesel911 · #21 03-07-2012, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Olivier

Hi Diesel911,

Nice MOD there, but there are alot who will disagree

about the the "hot air" will not improve performances...
I got a cone filter as well and its near the opening at the front of the car, then as soon as I move, cold air goes into it

I don't see any lack of performances and its a lot cheaper as washable

Last year in winter I had a shield directing cold air from outside and preventing the heat of the turbo getting into it, I found out that at -5 it was bad for the engine, especially as I run on mix WVO, I can only imagine near freezing air going into the prechamber while the oil is misty. EEK!
Then even if the air is a wee warmer with a cone filter, I think its all good

Olivier
PS: what was those adjustable boost control valves you were talking about? Are they OK with vaccum actuator? Cheers.

I am not sure what function Vacuum Actuator has. I do not believe my Car has one.
I bought a Boost Controller similar to the one at the site below:

UNIVERSAL ADJUSTABLE RACING TURBO 30 PSI MANUAL BOOST BYPASS CONTROLLER KIT RED | eBay

I believe it is only useful on applications where the Waste Gate along with the Intake Manifold pressure is the only thing that controls the Boost Pressure.
Meaning there is nothing Computer or Electronically controlled.

I believe it is simply a Spring loaded Valve. You can adjust the pressure as to when the Valve opens and allows that pressure to open the Waste Gate.
This is useful if you cannot adjust your Waste Gate and your Waste Gate is opening at too low of a pressure.

Renntag · #22 04-07-2012, 04:50 PM

Hello all. I am helping a friend breathe life into a 123 300D. The air cleaner is falling apart and as such has "got to go".

Measured about 2 5/16" OD on the compressor housing inlet. We are going to get a cone filter and a silicone adaptor to connect it all.

Once we have parts and get it together, I'll share here. The biggest pain in the butt is dealing with the Crank case evac and oil return drain. I like what Brad 123 did to capture oil. Nice and neat. I'd like to see what is under the cap. Brad, have pics of the assembly?

Diesel911 · #23 04-07-2012, 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

I have disproved the Hot Air issue to my satisfaction (at least in S. CA where I live).

To summarize a test I did with a Digital Thermometer Probe under the Hood attached outside of the Metal Part of the Stock Air Filter Housing Inlet.

What I found is that as long as the Car is moving at even City Traffic speeds the under the Hood temp only rises about 5 degrees F higher than the outside temp.

However, when stopped at a long Traffic Signal the under the Hood temp shot up to 197 degrees F. But, who cares what temp the incoming Air is at idle speed.
As soon as you start moving the temp drops quickly.

If there is some sort of Belly Pan (none on my W123) I would expect the results to be different.

I am posting this to correct the above stuff. Apparently my memory of the test was not so good. I found what I previously posted so here that is:

"I have a digital Thermometer with a probe long enough the I put it under the hood at the end of my air filter horn (Federal air filter housing) which would be about where one of those Cone type filters would be under the hood and I ran the car on the Freeway to get it hot and drove around town and sat at some long Traffic Signals. I also put the probe all the way up front where the cold air would go into the air filter and drove around again.

I was surprised to find out that while you are moving even in slow traffic the outside and under the hood temperature is not significantly different. However, when you idle the under the hood temperature went up from the 76 degree outside temp to 98-110 degrees under the hood.

My conclusion is that you do no harm by having the end of the air intake system under the hood as it only made a differance when you sat at idle. When you start moving there is enough air flow that you get the colder outside air anyway.

If you want to try the experiment youself (cheaper than a new intake system) I bought the thermometer at Target and it has a 36 inch long steel braided covered wire. You are supposed to stick the probe in what you are cooking in the oven to measure the inside temp of it and run the cable out of the oven door and the Digital display has magnets on the back to stick to you oven/car hood. I believe it cost around $16.
Get someone with good eyes to ride along with you to do the reading of the thermostat."

Diesel911 · #24 04-07-2012, 06:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Renntag

Hello all. I am helping a friend breathe life into a 123 300D. The air cleaner is falling apart and as such has "got to go".

Measured about 2 5/16" OD on the compressor housing inlet. We are going to get a cone filter and a silicone adaptor to connect it all.

Once we have parts and get it together, I'll share here. The biggest pain in the butt is dealing with the Crank case evac and oil return drain. I like what Brad 123 did to capture oil. Nice and neat. I'd like to see what is under the cap. Brad, have pics of the assembly?

I went back and looked at Brad's post; where is his Battery located?

Some people have said the Cone type Filters do not Filter well. I do not know if that is true or not.

Someday I plan to change my Cookie Can breather but it is not something that is critical.

mach4 · #25 04-07-2012, 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OM616

I have been using the Conical filter that my Ranger uses, on the MBs I have. The filter it self is like yours, just physically a little different.
I also use a portion of the Ford filter housing and clamp band to mount and make it easy to change the filter.

How did you fabricate the bracket? Did you turn it, spin it or was there something you found that you were able to adapt?

cho · #26 04-08-2012, 04:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

Some people have said the Cone type Filters do not Filter well. I do not know if that is true or not.

they filter unevenly ..I have one and I can notice that lower (wider)
part is more filthy .... so I guess that reduction comes faster in those
parts of filter itself....

.

mach0415 · #27 04-08-2012, 07:13 AM

Which adapter is everyone using to clamp to the turbo inlet.. I measured a KKK K26 turbo inlet at 2.25". NO ONE locally sells an adapter in that size. Online is the only source. I would like to put a 45 degree angle out to a washable filter nearer to the stock scoop at the grille/headlamp area, but the Spectre brands found at AZ, O', and AA parts have a 2.5" or 3" adapter to 3" or 4"only. Suggestions?

Diesel911 · #28 04-08-2012, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mach0415

Which adapter is everyone using to clamp to the turbo inlet.. I measured a KKK K26 turbo inlet at 2.25". NO ONE locally sells an adapter in that size. Online is the only source. I would like to put a 45 degree angle out to a washable filter nearer to the stock scoop at the grille/headlamp area, but the Spectre brands found at AZ, O', and AA parts have a 2.5" or 3" adapter to 3" or 4"only. Suggestions?

I used a Hubless Cast Iron Pipe Clamp/Union that I got from Homedepot; without the metal part and of course Hose Clamps.

The rubber part is loose inside of the Stainless Steel part; just remove the rubber part; had to cut it shorter.