Making the engine sparkle. How to get it done? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Rudolf_Diesel · #16 07-04-2010, 03:25 PM

Beautiful! I personnally use a citrus based cleaner - dLimonene is the ingredient you want. I have used one from Home Depot that works really well. The citrus cleaner does not harm the almuinum and works great on soot as well.

sixto · #17 07-04-2010, 03:26 PM

No one has problems with Simple Green at full concentration? I find it pits aluminum. Does that mean I leave it on too long?

Do you pressure wash a hot engine or do you have a pressure washer at home?

Sixto
87 300D

Jeremy5848 · #18 07-04-2010, 04:10 PM

Every time I work under the hood, I take a little longer and clean in the area that I'm working on. Any removed parts get cleaned before they go on. Not only does a clean engine look good but it is easier to work on.

Cleaning is also a good way to find things that were broken (but you didn't know about them). For example, while cleaning my '87 300D Turbo (W124, OM603), I discovered that the resistor for the low-speed aux fan had broken. Half the porcelain had disintegrated and the resistance wire was just hanging there. Interestingly, it still worked.

Jeremy

cjbrown · #19 07-04-2010, 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JHZR2

Wow, looks great. What is the deal with the breather hose setup on there? It doesnt go straight from the vc to the af. Where does it go? Catch can?

The earlier models vented to the intake manifold under the air cleaner.
The throttle linkage was different as well.

I had a 83 back about 13 years ago. It's been fun to have another one.

Stevo · #20 07-04-2010, 04:50 PM

If you have too take your car into someone for work to be done, the mechanic will be a more.....how shall I say..more pleased if he doesn't have to degrease your engine so he can get to the problem, a tidy, clean car puts him in a better mood too

It also shows that you respect your ride and he will be more apt to do the same.

RML · #21 07-04-2010, 05:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cjbrown

I just did mine. I don't think it had been detailed in its 31 year life.
Simple Green, a parts wash brush and a tooth brush. The only thing I covered up was the starter, used a piece of foil.
Took about 4 hours. Then spray all metal with metal protectant and everything else with 303, wipe down:

Wow!! That is imnpressive. I need to get to work on mine.

I was finishing up some work on my 84, started it up and then addressed this rattle that was coming from the drain pipe that goes dowm from the air cleaner to the oil reservoir. I found that the tube was not lined up on the bottom and was dripping the oil from the seperator onto the bottom of the engine and down over the oil pan. It was making a mess. Not sure how long it has been like that but got it corrected. There is a mess I will have to address with some Simple Green and my pressure washer.

tangofox007 · #22 07-04-2010, 06:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sixto

No one has problems with Simple Green at full concentration? I find it pits aluminum.

Even Simple Green's own website warns against using the original formula on aluminum.

cjbrown · #23 07-04-2010, 09:31 PM

I have never had an issue with simple green on aluminum, however it is not used full strength nor left a long period of time on bare aluminum. It can 'etch' is the term, or oxidize the surface. Wet it down, spray it on, brush with a stiff bristle brush, and hose off. Can dull paint too if used too aggressively.

It is a good degreaser and not so tough on the hands. I've been using it on everything from old boats, to motorcycles, sporting equipment, and everything automotive, like tires, motors, chassis, anything really grimey or mud-caked. Have been for more than 20 years, never had an issue.

You want to talk about a too strong of a cleaner, we used to use Castrol Super Clean - the purple stuff. Now that will etch aluminum real quick. Super strong degreaser though, and great for some applications. We used it a lot doing car restoration for really vintage parts, stuff from the 30's and 40's. Not much aluminum back then.

Parts got degreased with superclean and into the blast cabinet.

Brandon_SLC · #24 07-04-2010, 10:47 PM

I like the Simple Green for fine/delicate metal. I get it at Home Despot. (O'reilly had it last time I was there.)

Not only does it not pit aluminum, but it leaves it looking like new. I've never found it in anything but a spray bottle though, so it get's relatively expensive when doing a very greasy engine.

I've never had any pitting problems when using simple green on very greasy aluminum, and I've never had a need to apply it to clean aluminum.

funola · #25 07-04-2010, 10:47 PM

cjbrown, nice ! Do you have a before pic? What is 303 and what kind of metal pretector did you use?

vstech · #26 07-04-2010, 11:48 PM

CJ, wow, just wow... there is no way anyone with a seriously grunged up engine could get it looking that good. I mean your a/c hose insulation is still original. and it's smooth! look at your oil filter can, it's just amazing. valve cover likewise.
that is simply amazing. I'd love to see the before pic, and also would like to know what 303 is...

cjbrown · #27 07-05-2010, 12:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

CJ, wow, just wow... there is no way anyone with a seriously grunged up engine could get it looking that good. I mean your a/c hose insulation is still original. and it's smooth! look at your oil filter can, it's just amazing. valve cover likewise.
that is simply amazing. I'd love to see the before pic, and also would like to know what 303 is...

Well thank you (blush).
Sorry for hijacking the thread. After all, it was about cleaning the engine bay.

303 Aerospace Protectant - "Like spf40 for your stuff" as they say. You can get it at most marine or aircraft supply retailers, or online. The very best dressing and protectant for anything vinyl, rubber, or plastic. I go thru the stuff by the quart. $22 a quart but worth it. They have a version for fabric as well and is the only recommended product for Sunbrella brand canvas. www.303products.com

BTW, someone asked about spray bottles of simple green - you can buy it by the gallon and refill your pistol grip sprayers. Home depot, Lowes, or any industrial supply will have it in gallons - about $10.

The only 'before' pics I have are very poor quality from the ebay listing from when I bought it. I really need to start a thread with it's story, and photos of it now. I flew to Wyoming and drove it back to LA, sight unseen. Turned out to be one of those 'barn cars' that is absolutely incredible. Was a bit dirty and needed some polishing and service, but 116K, one owner, and everything works. A month or so later it is getting pretty close to as new. I've completely serviced the car front to back, and buffed out the topsides. Here's a few teaser pics.

MBeige · #28 07-05-2010, 01:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cjbrown

I just did mine. I don't think it had been detailed in its 31 year life.
Simple Green, a parts wash brush and a tooth brush. The only thing I covered up was the starter, used a piece of foil.
Took about 4 hours. Then spray all metal with metal protectant and everything else with 303, wipe down:

Fantastic! Beautiful work. I need to wear dark glasses when I look at those photos!

roundout · #29 07-05-2010, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tangofox007

Even Simple Green's own website warns against using the original formula on aluminum.

Yep, I used to use it to degrease the belly of airplanes. One day my boss caught me and chewed my ass up and down. Simple Green will absolutely pit aluminum. I believe they do make a formulation that is safe for Al but I don't think you can just walk in to wal-mart and buy it.

If you have some, biodiesel is a great solvent and is good at removing grime and oil. Pour a little bit in a spray bottle, hit it with a stiff bristle brush, rinse. You can follow up with a degreaser to remove the diesel slime.

Ryan Z · #30 07-05-2010, 11:20 AM

cjbrown - What " metal protectant " do you use? I too think your car looks marvalous.