Making the engine sparkle. How to get it done? - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Skid Row Joe · #31 07-05-2010, 11:40 AM

Kerosene is a good clean solvent to de-grease paint, chrome, etc. If you can find it for sale, that is.

cjbrown · #32 07-05-2010, 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ryan Z

cjbrown - What " metal protectant " do you use? I too think your car looks marvalous.

Thank you. I'm just the caretaker.

For many, many years I used WD40 for everything. Remember "My Big Fat Greek Wedding"? For me it was WD instead of windex. I still like it for the dirtbikes because it's cheap. After a washdown just spray the whole engine with it and wipe down. The next outing all the dirt and gunk just washes right off.

I'm a big fan of Amsoil lubricants, have been for many years, going back to their start in the 70's. I now use their MP or Metal Protector product almost exclusively. It's an outstanding product: http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/amp.aspx
I keep a couple of cans of it around for all kinds of squeaky mechanisms and for protecting metals subject to corrosion. It's much more durable than WD at about twice the cost. Good stuff though. Their HD Metal Protector is an excellent undercoating and heavy grease type protector, also works extremely well for drive chains on motorcycles. I have 4 bikes in the garage, on and off road. Lots of maintenance goes into keeping them up.

Renntag · #33 07-05-2010, 12:19 PM

To comment to the OP:
Use a decent degreaser, preferably something not caustic. Be careful with wheel cleaners as some are caustic and will harm aluminum.

I use "Crud Cutter" available at home Depot by the gallon. Fantastic stuff. Pour into a spray bottle, works great.

I also use a steam cleaner that I have access to at our maintenance facility. Not everyone has this luxury. Be careful about high pressure into the alternator, and other electrical components that arent sealed, also be careful with the cloth covered fluid lines and wiring. 2500+ psi of water can remove more than you intend. The IP should hold up fine to cleaning, just be careful around the electrical components if equipped. Some electrical parts hold up just fine and have zero risk under high pressure spray. Learn to identify those that are more susceptible and proceed accordingly. Covering with foil is a good bet.

Allowing a 15-20 minute soak on a warm engine bay with the crud cutter does wonders even if you are only spraying cool water at the car wash. In a perfect world, have a jack handy so you can get the underside too. All the crap runs down hill.

I find that performing regular cleaning will eventually get everything clean. Unless you have a strong dose of OCD an a month of free time, you wont get as clean as CJs "gem". That being said, 3 years of maintenance cleaning, and my W123 is looking pretty sweet.

In the winter months, I spray a coating of oxidizing preventative liquid intended for marine applications on all bare metal, (zinc coated or otherwise). This helps to keep them fresh looking now that they arent entombed in grease and oil.

The short of the story here is: unless you clean it once and put it in a bubble, this is a lot of work and constant attention.

Enjoy.

85chedeng300D · #34 07-05-2010, 10:49 PM

Not even close????

vstech · #35 07-06-2010, 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 85chedeng300D

Not even close????

heh, I like the two shiney points!
the rest of the car looks like it's been cleaned, but has seen heavy use.
I truly wish more drivers would clean their condenser coil as well as your is.
and wow, that's a huge aux fan.

Biodiesel300TD · #36 07-06-2010, 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JHZR2

Wow, looks great. What is the deal with the breather hose setup on there? It doesnt go straight from the vc to the af. Where does it go? Catch can?

On the early 123's the breather hose goes under the air filter and directly into the intake. The later 123 have the oil separator in the air filter that the breather hose connects to. The early ones don't have an oil separator.

Oldwolf · #37 07-06-2010, 10:54 AM

I have good results with Simple Green and a Garden Hose. Past vehicles I have used WD40 and the Garden Hose with good results too.

My MB has some stubborn spots that SG/hose will not budge. So I am planning to use WD40 and my pressure washer.

After the engine is clean and dry, respraying WD40 and leaving it on will make the next clean up easier too.

Armour All also makes the engine sparkle. I have uses 303 too and like it although I don't think it is really as great as the advertisements say. It does last longer than Armor All though.

cjbrown · #38 07-06-2010, 11:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oldwolf

>snip

Armour All also makes the engine sparkle. I have uses 303 too and like it although I don't think it is really as great as the advertisements say. It does last longer than Armor All though.

Armour-All is fine for your engine compartment, but that's about it. It has silicon oil which will break down the surface pores of the material it's on in sunlight. Will actually accellerate deterioration. 303 contains a UV filter that protects the surface from sunlight and weather. It doesn't have a greasy feel or look either. It has more recommendations than any other product of its kind by manufacturers of plastic, rubber, and vinyl materials.

I was introduced to 303 when I owned a high-performance RIB, which is an inflatable boat with a hard bottom. 303 is the ONLY product you can use on hypalon and comes highly recommended for protecting the surface from sun damage. If you EVER put a silicon based product on them a patch will never stick. Then I started trying it on everything else....SOLD! It's a fantastic product.

Another great throw-away product I have used for the dirtbikes because it's really cheap and I just want the look - STP Son-of-a-Gun. Hard to find these days though. I don't use it for protecting a surface, just for the enhanced appearance, and it gets washed off and reapplied after every ride. The bikes don't sit out on the sun, they are always garaged. I get a lot of jabs from fellow riders because my bikes are all detailed and look like new.

JohnM. · #39 07-06-2010, 11:42 AM

Your favorite de-greaser, a toothbrush, and about half a day. Your favorite beer is optional, but highly recommended.

cjbrown · #40 07-06-2010, 11:44 AM

Very nice. As you can see, it can be done but takes some time and effort.
Beer highly recommended.

BTW, it's ready for a spray down of WD or or metal protectant on the metal parts, then 303. Wipe it down, will sparkle. Next time it just takes a hose-off.
The 303 application makes all the rubber parts and painted surfaces look new again.

85chedeng300D · #41 07-06-2010, 12:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

heh, I like the two shiney points!
the rest of the car looks like it's been cleaned, but has seen heavy use.
I truly wish more drivers would clean their condenser coil as well as your is.
and wow, that's a huge aux fan.

Thanks!

The reason the 2 points mentioned were shiny is I recently done a valve adjustment and replaced a leaky oil filter housing gasket at the block, but the rest of the engine outside components have lost their cadmium plate i.e. the fuel injector lines, accelerator rod links, cruise control motor, etc.... I'm suspecting the previous owner used oven cleaner to de-grease the engine bay in the past, and besides the car has 375K miles on it

The huge aux fan was out of a W124 that I changed a couple of years ago due to the stock one is making a noise and blowing up fuse....so might as well upgrade it...