Fuse Strip ? Glow plug timer ? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

toomany MBZ · #16 10-18-2010, 01:26 PM

I don't know about the sensor, but if your plugs need changing, go ahead and do so.

I have swapped out glow plugs both with the metal fuel lines off and on. Off is much easier, but it can be done either way.

Beastie · #17 10-18-2010, 01:55 PM

Hey Bob ! How are things going. I was going to PM you with a few questions but have gotten busy getting my 03 Suburban ready for Winter. My wife works at a Hospital in Washington D.C. and also at National aka Reagan National Airport. Both jobs the only excuse for not making it in to work even with bad weather is Death. Anyway as I posted before I got no light at all but I do hear the relay click. I checked before and was getting 11+ volts at each plug while the timer cycled. The light came on for the first time in many years. If you turn the key to the preglow position it comes on and promptly goes off in a split second. I am going to do the other plugs regardless ( what a pain to get to,
those crazy Krauts. First they give the world Lederhosen and then barely accessible recurring maintenance parts) But ES had a good comment earlier.
Where does the GP relay get the information to glow or not and for how long.
It is hard to start in the a.m. when it gets a little cool but is pretty much okay when it is hot out. I know the valves need adjusting ( still have not gotten around to it) and it has gotten slower as well. When it starts in the a.m. there is a large cloud of white smoke ( fuel unburnt ?) and very rough idle so much that i have to feather the pedal to keep it running and then it smooths out some. I also believe I need new injector nozzles( in a few weeks)
Also the mileage is down. I did find fuel weeping from around the banjo bolt on the valve cover side of the IP. It is the clear line that goes from the spin on fuel filter top ( return line ?) I snugged it up and will watch it to see if it stops. Ideas ?
Thanks
Alan

E_S · #18 10-18-2010, 06:59 PM

I don't know where the sensor is located on the OM617 engine (despite having one myself..), but I guess there isn't that many on the engine. I guess there is two - one for the temperature gauge in the instrument cluster and one for the glow plug system. Just pull one and see if the dash gauge reacts, maybe? If so, then it's the other one..

toomany MBZ · #19 10-18-2010, 07:01 PM

See how the dash light reacts once new plugs are in.

Some smoke at start up is normal.

If the local fuel station uses a winter blend, you may get lower mileage, less energy, more anti-gelling compound.

That leak is in an unusual place. That fuel bypass valve has metal seal rings, or crush washers, so unless disturbed there isn't much of a chance to leak.

If snugging them up doesn't help, replace them.

tangofox007 · #20 10-18-2010, 08:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by E_S

I don't know where the sensor is located on the OM617 engine (despite having one myself..), but I guess there isn't that many on the engine. I guess there is two - one for the temperature gauge in the instrument cluster and one for the glow plug system.

The timer uses ambient air temp measured internally. At least that's the way it is on the USA versions.

Beastie · #21 11-01-2010, 09:38 AM

Okay it has gotten kinda busy around here on weekends so I have not had a block of time to finish everything but here goes. I replaced 3 of the 5 GP's and will replace the 2 most difficult to reach today. I did leave the fuel lines in place, will not make that mistake again ! Now the interesting part, with these 3 new plugs the car starts on a 32 degree morning with the GP relay cycle albeit somewhat rough but warms up and smooths out at idle quickly. The Inop GP light on the dash has started working but still kinda odd. It glows for about 14 seconds so I still wait to hear the relay click before starting. I am hoping the last 2 GP'S will solve that problem. Second on another thread I noted the issue with the battery being the minimum spec for this car and that I was able to exchange it and pay the difference ( $26.00) to get the Monster large and called for battery for this vehicle. I noticed this a.m. with the cold temp and did not have the car plugged in over night that the engine cranked easily and started up pretty well. Next step is to fix antilock light in dash / ABS inop at the moment. Also do front brakes and rotors and flush system. I believe the constantly on Antilock light is a broken sensor wire. Anyway I need to do a valve check/adjust and that will probable come before anything else. The car seems to be lacking power and I do not believe that the turbo is kicking in. I pulled air cleaner and housing and found 2 things- the air cleaner housing mount is almost brand new and that some one took a shortcut when they did the oil return tube "O" ring replacement, they just shoved another one on and it was not in the correct groove so oil has been coming out of there. The turbo spins easily with my finger and does not wobble seem bound up in any way ( I know this is without oil pressure) I also made sure there were no mice nest's in the air intake and all is clear. I need to see if enough exhaust is getting to the turbine. Heat works perfectly. A whining sound coming from the rear possibly driveshaft support bearing ?
Again sorry to ramble but thanks to all for your help I will update again.

toomany MBZ · #22 11-01-2010, 10:35 AM

Properly mount the drain tube "O" ring.

The turbo isn't bound up, good. Check the banjo fitting on the intake manifold. If it's clogged up, the ALDA won't get the proper signal and too little fuel will get to the engine.

Change the rear end fluid, this may change the rear end whine.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Beastie · #23 11-01-2010, 11:51 AM

Toomany MBZ, Yeah today I have to go meet with a lawyer about some issues but am going to try to work on it in the afternoon. There were 2 "O" rings on the piece of the tubing that comes out of the air filter housing bottom but neither one of them was in the proper place and were just pushed up to the bottom of the housing. As I wrote earlier it looks as though that is where the oil was coming from. There was very little oil in the bottom of the filter housing in fact it was barely even wet with any oil. I just get the feeling that a valve adjustment would help the overall performance. Another issue I mentioned before was that when I installed the correct exhaust hangars a thrumming vibration started and you can see that the 2 rear pipes at the bumper are canted quite a bit and I believe that I need to loosen the attachment point for the entire underside exhaust pipes and get it to hang correctly ( on a lift) the original install and zip tie hangars were all done at the same shop so I suspect they did not bother to hang it right so long as it did not leak. Is it correct that the turbo should spool up ( with everything stock) at around 2200-2300 rpm's ?
I am also considering doing the EGR delete mod and the BB in the vac line trick ( did it to my 79 BMW 302i) The question for you Toomany MBZ is this.
When the egr is bypassed/removed does this effect the additional fuel that would be kicked in and necessary for the turbo to be effective ? I am going to do a quick search for a decent vacuum diagram as it relates to the turbo so I can better understand it. Also I might have a exhaust leak or exhaust bypassing the turbo via a dump valve or an over pressure system ?
Sorry for throwing all of this in but while I am finishing the last 2 GP's and am under the hood I may as well. As for the banjo bolt at the rear intk manifold I did clean it out all the way to the switch on the firewall and also disconnected that and cleaned it well. Do you know a good source for an assortment of the appropriate sized and various elbows for the vacuum lines in the engine bay ?
Thanks
Alan

toomany MBZ · #24 11-01-2010, 03:05 PM

The exhaust should not be canted, much, anyway. If all your hangers are now of the stock variety, something was improperly done, as you mention. The only item not welded to the underside, is located, I'm guessing, near the front, as it's referred to as a "front exhaust pipe suspension", so good luck with that. See if you have the proper muffler too.

That's about right for the turbo to engage, maybe a bit low rpm.

I couldn't remember if you'd cleaned out the banjo fitting and lines, you have, good.

The egr delete will not have an impact on fuel as far as the IP is concerned, you MIGHT get better mileage, that's all.

I would think you can click on the "buy parts" button and find all the rubber connectors you need. They are mostly the same size.

Beastie · #25 11-01-2010, 03:32 PM

Your muffler looks new . the rear and center resonator on this were replaced and then not driven much. All MBZ OEm , I bought from Tom Hansen before he left Caliber Motors and went to the classic center in Cali. They appear to be good. This car has one of the center units that has two chambers on either side of the car. I am trying to get some lift time tuesday and see what I can see. as i said it could be that when I put the correct hangars on I may have put a little too much a$$ behind my lifting and twisting and loosened a connection that was already incorrectly made. The car just does not seem as powerful as 1.5months ago off the line or when kicked down. The tranny kicks down but I just do not think the turbo is spooling up correctly. Any good diagrams on the various turbo connections and such ? I am about to go outside and install the last 2 GP's and if enough time before I pick up one of my kids I will pull the aircleaner box again and see whats up. Is the wastegate visible from above ( sorry for a simple ?)
Thanks
Alan

toomany MBZ · #26 11-01-2010, 08:28 PM

If you have access to a boost gauge, hook that up to the line going to the ALDA. 10 to 11 psi was from the factory. If you get significantly less, some detective work is in order.

The waste gate has arrows drawn to it in the first pic and follow the wrap around hose to it in the second.

That muffler is just over three years old.

toomany MBZ · #27 11-01-2010, 08:30 PM

Double post, sorry.

micalk · #28 11-01-2010, 11:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beastie

... with these 3 new plugs the car starts on a 32 degree morning with the GP relay cycle albeit somewhat rough but warms up and smooths out at idle quickly. The Inop GP light on the dash has started working but still kinda odd. It glows for about 14 seconds so I still wait to hear the relay click before starting. I am hoping the last 2 GP'S will solve that problem.

The glow plug light always goes out before the relay clicks off. Under ideal conditions, it should be on long enough to get the car started. Just one of those things. Be Zen about it. Change the last 2 GPs so all five are new, and keep the two as spares.