Hard brake lines: OK to use good used ones?
 

It looked like I was about to finally end the most epic simple brake job of all-time, and sure enough, one of the brake lines snapped in the rear when I went to replace the hose. The steel lines look plain wretched back there and need to be replaced; the front ones look fantastic. I do have some rear brake lines from a parts car that look quite good, that have been sitting in my shed. Any reason not to trust used hard brake lines that look perfect, assuming they are thoroughly flushed?

brake lines
 

would not hesitate to use them

none that I can think of.
use away!
hmmmm. how long was the parts car sitting? any chance the calipers are full of water? if so, the rear lines could be corroded from the inside. make a note of the fluid that comes out of them.

Thanks guys. The parts car was sitting for a while as it was being parted out, but in a garage. Since then they have been in my parents' shed, which is dirty, but dry. I will definitely run some fluid through them and see what comes out. Unfortunately I'm not sure I have all the ones I need, but I have the long one that goes up to the front and that's a good start.:o Bending that one would have been less than fun.

there are a few women members on here, and for some reason it's more fun to help them than the men members... KISA syndrome? who knows, but it's odd in some way.

Logical: The Brake Tubing that is on most peoples cars is also used; so re-using used Brake Tubing that is still in good condition has to be OK.

Logical:

Its a corrosion resistant metal tube with no metal parts. lol

IMHO using good used lines is a good way to go because the flares are correct, and the shape of the bends is correct. Those two things can be tricky to replicate after the fact with straight tube.

-Jason

That was my thought, too. I've done my dad's van brake lines from straight tubes before and it was a bear (they were "preflared" though).

And jeez guys, sorry if my logic isn't perfect ... I just like to be extra sure when it come to parts my life depends on. Sometimes people with more experience than I have think of things I wouldn't have thought of ... so it seems worth asking.:)

I have yet to use it yet but I have a Bubble Flaring kit that is supposed to make the proper Flares.
So it is possible to make up your own new Brake lines or cut some Generice metric Brake Line down to size and flare it.

In my experience--And this is based on UK weather conditions, with moist air for many months of the year, Steel brake-lines can also corrode From The Inside..

Brake-fluid can absorb moisture from the air, this can cause corrosion inside a pipe that otherwise appears perfect...

Personally, and based on my experiences, I would replace with Cupro-Nickel pipes,-- nipples and unions are cheap and a flaring tool isnt expensive....
--I wouldnt hesitate--just renew them, job done...

Forming Cupro-Nickel into shape is much easier than steel pipe and a great job can easily be done in the same time-frame as removing a good pipe off a donor and re-fitting to the recipient....
--Best part, it'll Never corrode from either inside Or outside, ever again!

Good brakes can mean the difference between life and death....;)

Bodhi,
Before you put fluid through the line, I would give it a good purge with an air hose. If water & rust come out, trash it. I think all of us want the best outcomes from your work!!

Good Luck !!

I've used my double flare tool for over 30 years and have cars all over the US still running my home flares. One of the best tools in my bunch. You have to be careful but you can make factory flares.

Purging with air is a good idea, like let it blow into a white towel, makes seeing trouble easier. As said Brake fluid is hydroscopic.

You'll larf at this--

But my flaring tool was a freebie with one of those 'Popular Mechanics' monthly magazines....
(It was either completely free, or just a pittance at the time, can't remember....)

Had it gotta be 20 odd years, and done many a complete car and loads of individual pipes with it...

The secret is, use a good quality Cupro-Nickel pipe, which is more malliable than the steel stuff, and forms better nipples and flares on the pipes IME--Its less strain on the tool and your wrist!

--Its a pity that auto-makers dont use cupro-nickel, but at three times the cost of steel, guess you can see why!;)