dude i'm just bustin' your balls as you know. any man with 10 vehicles and a wife has major skillz in my book. it's enough to juggle a wife, adding 10 vintage cars to that and you've got yourself a circus right there

:D and busting them back. I've learned a long time ago that you need thick skin to play in web forums. Yes, it is a circus here. But because we have so many toys, we can only afford 2 rings... the third one was sold to buy another car. :cool:

Update 9/8/10

After cutting the lawn (first time in over 2 months due to the lack of real rain) I was looking at the 300d's pealing clearcoat faded paint. I buffed out my boat at the beginning of the season and had some good 3M finishing compound left over and a good wool bonnet. I only got the hood area done today but in comparison to the trunk lid, I think its a great improvement. Eventually I plan on painting the car since the clear coat is shot.

I figured I would buff it out just so it looks better to drive around with right now before the paint is done. What do you think?

The hood looks pretty good...

Another interesting issue just occured. The Tachometer was not working when I picked the car up from the shop. Yesterday in the morning still nothing. I came home for lunch in the afternoon and when I left to go back to work, the tach started to work. When I left to go home, it wasn't working again.

Where can I find the tach lead? Maybe cleaning the terminal or what it connects to might solve this issue?

Also the odometer stopped working on me. I reset the trip odometer and went .1 mile and everything stopped. I see there is some tips on removing the cluster and glueing or roughing up some shaft for the odometer that will help this?

The tach is a common failure item. There is an amp located on the drivers side inner fender. It looks like an upside down trash can. It screws into a female socket.

Replace it.

Search for Techguy512, he makes a solid state unit.

Whooie! I must be TOTALLY "not there"...
my sig is a VERY small sample of the vehicular manhood in my yard...

Found another anoying issue. The turn signals stopped working. Is the flasher part of the hazards? I know BMW's use this type of system and I can't find a flasher to replace on the car.

Thanks for everyones input.

The flasher relay is under the wood in the center console, forward of the shift leaver. Do the 4-way flashers work? If so you will be able to hear it. Also, check the connections on the 4-way switch, it's all part of the same circuit.

Yes, the 4-way flasher works fine. How do I access the flasher? I removed the ashtry and then I noticed the wood shifter plate slides back but I can't get it go lift past the ashtray bracket. Could someone shed some light on how to pop this plate out so I can get to the flasher? I don't want to ruin the fragile wood.

Thanks

If you are talking about a large multipin round connector into a flat looking relay type thing with a flat multipin connector that comes off then towards the engine, I think I found it. I unplugged it, checked the connection, cleaned the pins on both plugs and plugged it back in. Now I have a working tach.

Also interestingly enough, I tried the hazards again on my way home from work and since I did that, now I have turn signals again. I guess since my car sat for a couple years off the road its going to have a few quirks as I start to drive it.

I also have to figure out how to get those bumper strips back on. It looks like I might have to take the bumpers off so I can slide the plastic locks over. I can't figure how to do it with the bumpers on.

I appreate everyones help so far on the project. I am sure these are simple noob questions but with your help, this almost lost car will be returned to its former glory.

Also on a side note, the more I drive it, the more I am liking the car. Its different than what I expected but now I am getting used to the car. New tires are going on this week then updated pictures.

You'll probably start finding a few intermittent electrical issues. Many of the switches can be disassembled and cleaned. The console switches are a trap for crud and gunk.

Its those little things that annoy you the most when doing restorations. Its something I expect for a car that has sat for a little bit in the elements and not garaged. Last night one of my brake lights went out, came back on and then went out again. Today I am going to clean out the taillight sockets and install all new bulbs with some dielectric grease to thwart corrosion.

I recently did the bumper strip on the back of the CD. See this: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/206084-w123-rear-bumper-rubber-trim.html
Remove the strip from the "joint covers". The pics here are of the epc diagram (item #9) and the inside of the rear bumper. Those two joint covers have hooks on them, start at one corner and push the hooks through. Then slide it toward the center. Do the same on the other side. They'll stay there by themselves, yet as you can see, I used a piece of kite string to tie the two joint covers together, this will hold them in place while installing the strip. Slide one end of the strip into the side cover piece. Using plenty of lubricant, I used WD-40, spray the joint cover and/or inside channel of the strip. Using a large faced hammer, I simply pounded the strip on as you see.
Yes, I was referring to that round pin and socket item you got the tach to work again. The top part is the amp.

ok. you have a car that's been sitting a while.
open the hood, remove the battery, then take out the battery tray. clean the crap out of the fender. ANY rust, treat it NOW! there are 3 drains from the spring pocket to the battery tray. all gotta be free of gunk! other side too.
also clean out the sunroof drains, and make sure your radio antenna works properly, and the fuel filler grommet is not torn or cracked. keep the car dry!
ok, electrical issues. pull ALL THE FUSES and clean the contacts they sit in. then put in new GERMAN ceramic fuses. not the crap from the hardware/auto parts store. order a set from our fine sponsers here.