If there is a plastic tube runing from the Engin Block near the timer to the Fuel Injection Pump your Fuel injection Pump is lubed by the Engine.

If you have a Fuel Injectin Pump that has it's own Oil Sump some are difficult to drain. There is some threads on how to do this.

Some IPs with their own Oil Sump have their own little dip stick but most have a U-shaped tube on the Engine Side of the pump. You fill until Oil comes out of the Tube.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

My manual says nothing about checking the level. Do you know how I do that and how I determine the proper level? Since later models feed off the engine, I assume that engine oil is appropriate for the IP, is that correct?

Several things come to mind. Check the linkage for general condition. It may be in questionable condition. Is it pushing the injection pump lever as far as it will go? Does the linkage seem in good general condition.

The second would be to monitor the fuel pressure present in the base of the injection pump. It may be changing. You should want to do this anyways as quite a few things depend on having good pressure there.

A fluid dampened gauge showing 0-30 pounds is ideal and about ten dollars. Maybe the fuel pressure is falling off intermitently.

I second checking the linkages, the clutch, and the fuel (quality and for leaks in the fuel lines somewhere).

One thought came to mind, considering there was mention of low power that was not resolved until the next time the engine was run: The start/stop knob is also a mechanical linkage to the injection pump. If it isn't adjusted properly, the engine may not be getting full fuel, or it won't shut off. I had the latter problem when I first got my 240D. The idle speed would decrease with the knob pushed in all the way, but it would still run.

So, if that linkage isn't returning to the same spot each time the car was started (which was the case with my car), you could potentially be running with the IP partially "off" on some days, i.e. reduced fuel. Have someone pull & push on the knob (with the battery disconnected) and see if the shutoff valve (or whatever it's called) is fully opening & closing at the IP (if I remember correctly, at the "start" position, it opens slightly farther than at the "run" position, for injecting extra fuel at startup).

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1976 240D "Katja"

Does the "Gorilla knob" always go back to exactly the same "run" position when released? Measure its extension when it is running good vs running poorly. If it is in too far, it may be on the verge of shutting off the fuel flow.

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Palangi

2004 C240 Wagon 203.261 Baby Benz
2008 ML320 CDI Highway Cruiser
2006 Toyota Prius, Saving the Planet @ 48 mpg
2000 F-150, Destroying the Planet @ 20 mpg



TRUMP .......... WHITEHOUSE
HILLARY .........JAILHOUSE
BERNIE .......... NUTHOUSE
0BAMA .......... OUTHOUSE

I'm gradually working through the suggestions. So far, fuel lines look okay, no signs of leaks; I checked linkage and it needs some work. I also looked for oil in the IP and saw none. I did a little more research and found that the proper oil level is determined by loosening a bleed screw on the side of the pump. Tomorrow in daylight I will try that. I want to test the fuel pressure, but that will probably have to wait until the weekend. The Gorilla knob is stiff and may be part of the problem. I have noticed that the car revs more on start up than it used to.

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone! The issue isn't solved yet, but at least I have a better idea of what to try.

When a fault is not constant or intermittent you have to monitor for it. My suspicion and the need for the gauge was to eliminate any possibility there is something in the fuel supply circuit that is changing.

The drop in pressure would not show during periods the car is running normally. It would show up though during periods of little power. So the need is to monitor it rather than just check it. There is a very good chance that the problem is fuel supply related remember.

You cannot really locate this type of problem during the running well periods. The first thing you do automatically when a problem like your errupts is change the fuel filters. They do and can also produce bizzare effects as well as the normal ones. Perhaps you already have I have not read all your thread again...

The alternative as you are well aware is to start changing things on suspicion or speculation.. This is both costly and frustrating in the long haul. Shotgunning is for hunting not cars. Although the discussion on the control knob grabbed my attention to check out. That does not involve buying parts.

Not a lot of members are familiar with your earlier series set up either. Some are I am not.