removing door lock tumbler & re-keying
 

I have a door handle with lock and key from my 240D. I thought I'd check here if anyone has done this before so I don't break mine. How do I remove the tumbler from the door handle? I want to rekey the lock so it fits a key from my 300D.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...071310_001.jpg

It looks like I have to drive out a small roll pin. Is that correct?

I hope someone pipes in with a solution for this one, I need to do the same. I think the drivers side handle on my car was changed at on time, the key will not lock on unlock the door and cannon plug (wires were cut). I am assuming those were for the central locking system.

there is a roll pin in the pivot part, drive it out and the tumbler comes right out.
there is a thread on here, cause that's how I found out how to do it.

vstech is right. You basically have to completely disassemble, including removal of roll pins. In addition,here is a short roll pin that only goes in one-way. For this one, I screwed in a small screw and pulled it (the pin) out - fairly easy w/ a pair of small vise grips. I just did this on my 85 300sd. AND...after the cylinder is disassembled, do NOT let the 2 detent springs and balls and tumblers/springs fly apart - very tricky to put back together even with all the parts. I would suggest taking the cylinder apart in a cardboard box, that way you can easily retain the parts. Its not impossible to complete, but it can be tedious. So, take heart and have patience. The MB key I ordered from MB did not fit the lock, so I ground all the high tumblers down until they all cleared the cylinder to turn the mechanism - with the key inserted, of course. I assembled in reverse order, and lubed it and it works like a champ. I did not use a new tumbler kit, I simply "modified" what I had.

I've got the 240D tumbler out, filed down the wafers to work with my 300D door key, and swapped it in its passenger door.

Here's a pic and some notes:

1. I used the blunt end of a small drill bit and knocked the roll pin out.

2. The actuator rod goes in one way only. Make note of it before taking it off.

3. There is a tumbler return spring for a door tumbler. There is no detent ball and spring like in the trunk tumbler.

4. I took one wafer out at a time and filed it down to fit the key. Be careful not to lose the small coil spring under each wafer! The wafers and spring can fall out by themselves (if not gunked up like after being washed) if the key is out of the tumbler.

5. I had a hard time getting the roll spin lined up straight and it didn't want to go in. Finally got it in after a few attempts.

6. The weather seal was broken in half. I put it back in to decrease in/out slop of the tumbler

Legend:
red- spring
yel- roll pin
gn- weather seal broken in half
blu- drill bit punch
gray- actuator rod


http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...1610_003-1.jpg

Good work funola. A lot of people replace the tumbler set, which in a way is the right way to do stuff, I suppose - not the way I took. But when budgets get tight, and the McGyver ability is present, thinking outside the box can accomplish the same task. I am finding that to be true with lots of MB systems. Don't get me wrong, things need to be repaired correctly - not rigged. But I guess a lot of old MB guys will tell you the only right way is by the book. Some areas I will NOT compromise is with engine, trans, driveline, and brake issues. The locks are expensive if replacing, and is not necessarily a vital safety issue. thanks for the pics!