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  #16  
Old 07-19-2010, 03:38 PM
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Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by BodhiBenz1987 View Post
Well, it turns out the rear of the master cylinder was indeed empty! BenzGirl got it on the first shot. It was hard to see because my MC is a big foggy, but when I shined the flashlight on it I could see it was empty. So I filled it up, but the pressure bleeder back on (I also tightened the hose clasp on the power bleeder) and everything worked! Aside from hitting my face on the underside of the car, it went smoothly from there. Thanks guys!

I'm still having a couple issues, though ... one being a chuff chuff chuff sound when the car is rolling slowly (goes away when the wheel is turned left) that I'm guess might be dust shield. The other is that the left front wheel gets hotter faster than the others and smells a bit burning. It doesn't really drag when I turn it by hand but it has me worried. That was the wheel that seized on me on the highway and almost caught fire, which is what prompted this brake job. I replaced the calipers, rotors, pads, hoses and wheel bearings, so i don't know what would still be wrong. Maybe I made the bearings too tight.
Did you remove/inspect the wheel bearings and re-pack them with fresh grease?

Extreme heat will cook the grease into TAR...
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  #17  
Old 07-19-2010, 04:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter View Post
Did you remove/inspect the wheel bearings and re-pack them with fresh grease?

Extreme heat will cook the grease into TAR...
Yes I replaced the bearings with new ones including the races in the hub, and packed them with MB grease, exactly the amount specified in the FSM. And I set the play using a dial gauge ... but had a little trouble getting consistent readings at first. I did finally find a position for the gauge that got consistent readings and set it as exactly as I could. Both hubs seemed to spin comfortably and evenly.

Both front wheels are definitely HOT. I drove it for a few errands to see what transpired and it felt OK. Just super hot when I touch the wheel ... I can even feel heat coming off. No smell anymore though. It is pretty hot out today (95 maybe?), and I know brakes do get hot, but ... . I'm driving the Jeep to work and I'll see what the Benz does tomorrow. I replaced a lot of things, so lots of room for error ...
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--369,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--137,000 miles
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  #18  
Old 07-19-2010, 06:34 PM
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After doing my homework and using the search feature I'm leaning toward a bad master cylinder. Both fronts seem to have the problem, though the left side a bit more (might just be my perception). Ugh. I don't have the energy ...
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--369,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--137,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--3,700 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--32,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #19  
Old 07-19-2010, 11:20 PM
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How are your rotors?
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  #20  
Old 07-19-2010, 11:21 PM
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Question

Are the pads and caliper pistons free?
Have you replaced the rubber brake hoses?

If the answers are yes = a bad master cylinder.
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  #21  
Old 07-19-2010, 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by aaa View Post
How are your rotors?
Brand new, OE rotors.
whunter ... yes, all four reman calipers and new pads w/ light MB brake paste on specified surfaces and replaced all four rubber hoses.
Guess I'll do some MC testing/replacing research; I'm sure there's many threads on it. I have an MC from a 124 that's been sitting in my parents' garage but maybe for all the effort to install it I'll just get a new one.

I may just wimp out and take it to my indy, at the risk of losing my street cred as a DIYer.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--369,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--137,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--3,700 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--32,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #22  
Old 07-20-2010, 12:58 AM
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FYI

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Originally Posted by BodhiBenz1987 View Post
Brand new, OE rotors.
whunter ... yes, all four reman calipers and new pads w/ light MB brake paste on specified surfaces and replaced all four rubber hoses.
Guess I'll do some MC testing/replacing research; I'm sure there's many threads on it. I have an MC from a 124 that's been sitting in my parents' garage but maybe for all the effort to install it I'll just get a new one.

I may just wimp out and take it to my indy, at the risk of losing my street cred as a DIYer.
The used one on the shelf should still be good, try it..

It is an easy DIY, not a major PIA.
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  #23  
Old 07-20-2010, 03:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter View Post
The used one on the shelf should still be good, try it..

It is an easy DIY, not a major PIA.
Thanks. Now that I've read the FSM description it doesn't look that bad. I thought I would have to bench bleed it but the FSM just says install then fill the reservoir?
The one on my shelf is from an 88 300E ... that will work on the 300D, right?
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--369,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--137,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--3,700 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--32,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #24  
Old 07-20-2010, 09:26 AM
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Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by BodhiBenz1987 View Post
Thanks. Now that I've read the FSM description it doesn't look that bad. I thought I would have to bench bleed it but the FSM just says install then fill the reservoir?
The one on my shelf is from an 88 300E ... that will work on the 300D, right?
Both 1988 300E and 1987 300DT have the same part numbers listed.

MB# 004 430 34 01 superseded

MB# 005 430 24 01 superseded

MB# 005 430 39 01

Yes it will work.
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  #25  
Old 07-20-2010, 09:55 AM
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If you are lucky & fill the master with fluid before you fit it & provided fluid has not drained back out of the lines, you can get away with out re-bleeding the system. I have done it many times. You are probably getting tired of bleeding brakes & have a big supply of spent fluid !!
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  #26  
Old 07-20-2010, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by layback40 View Post
If you are lucky & fill the master with fluid before you fit it & provided fluid has not drained back out of the lines, you can get away with out re-bleeding the system. I have done it many times. You are probably getting tired of bleeding brakes & have a big supply of spent fluid !!
Yes, I am definitely tired of bleeding and buying new fluid. Doesn't the fluid have to be drained out of the lines? Or can you drain it where the lines attach to the cylinder so it stays in the calipers/lines?

Thank you whunter for the parts numbers! My computer will not open the EPC anymore, it doesn't like the Java application.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--369,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--137,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--3,700 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--32,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #27  
Old 07-20-2010, 01:29 PM
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re EPC, you may need to adjust security seetings on your browser, I have trouble with Chrome doing this, I have to allow the app every time I run it? Due to 'unsafe components'...the notification in the top bar is too fast to hit!
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  #28  
Old 07-21-2010, 01:22 AM
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The EPC used to work on Macs, but the vendor who writes it for MB made some changes a while ago and although it uses java it requires Windows (or at least did the last time I accessed it.) Don't know if BodhiBenz1987 uses a Mac, but I have to fire up a virtual machine to access the EPC now.
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  #29  
Old 07-21-2010, 12:04 PM
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Motive clear Vinyl Hose

These Motive pressure brake bleeders are a great unit. I bought one about 5-6 yrs ago, then didn`t use it until last yr for the first time when I did my 4-spd trans swap. works great.

Then last week I decided to flush out the old fluid, (can`t have dingy looking fluid going to the GTG) Iam under the R/R wheel and all is going well, then hear bubbles gurgling through the line. then it clears up and flows clear? HMMM.
then go over to the L/R and start on that one.

suddenly I hear liquid dripping up front, look under the car and it is pouring down from the engine .

Zoom up to the front of the car, and the clear vinyl hose where it clamps onto the Motive, has split and I have a sprinkler of brake fluid shooting up to the hood liner and all over the engine.

I wipe up the mess, spray Marine Clean (degreaser) and hose off everything and all is well. cut 4in off the hose, reconnect and finish the next day.

SOOO, if your clear vinyl hose is a little stiff, replace it.

Charlie
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  #30  
Old 07-21-2010, 05:18 PM
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I built my own pressure bleeder and the instructions said to not go over 14psi. I didn't want to have to crawl out from under the car so many times so I figured 20psi would give me a longer interval, plus maybe drive the old fluid out with a little more force taking more crud with it.

While under the car I noticed fluid dripping out near the engine bay and I found that the rubber grommets that fit the reservoir to the master cylinder cannot take that kind of pressure without leaking.

Lesson learned.
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