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A new brake bleeding thread ... what did I do now?
... So after a bit of a hiatus due to health issues, I finally got my brake job on the 124 done, including all new rear hard lines. Almost. I went to bleed it using my Motive power bleeder and new MB brake fluid and here's what's happening. I started at the back right and when I open the bleeder, a bit of fluid comes out, then a frothstorm of bubbly fluid ... which I expected of course ... but the froth just keeps on coming. Then nothing comes out at all. I go look at the bleeder and it's lost all its pressure. Pump it back up and try again, same deal. Club soda, then loses pressure. I've used the Motive bleeder several times with no problem ... bleeding is a breeze. This is the first time I've replaced the hard lines though ... should there really be that kind of air coming out for so long or did I mess something up? I.e., a kink in the tube or a leak? I can't find a kink and I don't see fluid coming out anywhere. I had to rush off to work so I had to drop everything, but I'll inspect the bleeder unit again when I get home. Usually I pump it up to 15 PSI and it holds that while I bleed. Thoughts?
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
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#3
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
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When I've use my MityVac for bleeding brakes I always get bubbles. When you break open the bleeder valve and suck on it with a device it pulls bubbles from around the bleeder and not just fluid. Try having an assistant pump the brakes and drain the bleeder into a container the old fashion way and see if you still get bubbles.
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Andrew '04 Jetta TDI Wagon '82 300TD ~ Winnie ~ Sold '77 300D ~ Sold
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#6
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
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Bodhi,
Expect to have to fill the reservoir several times as you have completely empty lines and calipers. I wouldnt use 15 psi, too high, it will cause you to make soda!! Best have a pint of fluid on hand. Slow & gentle is the trick to bleeding brakes. Using your mity vac may give a better result. Just keep the back part of the reservoir full. Good Luck !!
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles 1987 250td 160k miles English import 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
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I would recommend against using the master cylinder as the pressure source for bleeding. Find out why your power bleeder isn't working. Perhaps it's leaking air from the pressurized chamber to the hose.
You're supposed to pressure bleed these things. |
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Fill the reservoir to the rim before you put the bleeder on, that pinhole between the two reservoirs is annoyingly at the very top.
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Thanks for all the tips folks. I'll fiddle around when I get home (or tomorrow ... I won't be home until 2 a.m.) and will update with my findings.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#12
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Since this is being such a pain. Find a friend and do it the old fashion way. Open bleeder, press pedal to floor, close bleeder, and release pedal....... Keep the reservoir full and you should be good to go.
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon 1979 280CE 225,200 miles 1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles 1976 240D 190,000 miles 1979 300TD 220,000 GONE but not forgotten 1976 300D 195,300 miles 1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg |
#13
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If you're losing fluid too and can't find it, it may be leaking into the booster, just a guess.
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83 SD 84 CD |
#14
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"the old fashioned way" is not a good practice with ABS, power bleeding is the best way to go.
if you are getting bubbles and air, it's due to air being in the bleeder, or air in the master cylinder. when you wake up and log on, I bet you'll have no issues once the MC is full by hand, and the power bleeder is verified to have fluid in the reservoir. |
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Well, it turns out the rear of the master cylinder was indeed empty! BenzGirl got it on the first shot. It was hard to see because my MC is a big foggy, but when I shined the flashlight on it I could see it was fluidless. So I filled it up, but the pressure bleeder back on (I also tightened the hose clasp on the power bleeder) and everything worked! Aside from hitting my face on the underside of the car, it went smoothly from there. Thanks guys!
I'm still having a couple issues, though ... one being a chuff chuff chuff sound when the car is rolling slowly (goes away when the wheel is turned left) that I'm guess might be dust shield. The other is that the left front wheel gets hotter faster than the others and smells a bit burning. It doesn't really drag when I turn it by hand but it has me worried. That was the wheel that seized on me on the highway and almost caught fire, which is what prompted this brake job. I replaced the calipers, rotors, pads, hoses and wheel bearings, so i don't know what would still be wrong. Maybe I made the bearings too tight.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
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