So, I've done the following;

-set crank to 24 BTDC
-created as spout for #1 on the IP
-loosened the 3 IP bolts
-loosened remaining injector lines
-new primer pump installed today

issues-

-no matter how i rotate the injector pump no fuel comes out
-my IP will not retard passed the block and IP punch marks
-I want IP timing to be the issue with my car

I have not fiddled with anything other than this because it got dark and my beer intake exceeded that of my tobacco intake.

Naturally, my report should illicit some response(s) but...

i plan on advancing the crank tomorrow and seeing if i can find fuel. i assume slack in the chain is an issue but don't really care. my main concern is why won't the IP retard.

in the worst case i'll run the car and see if rotating the the IP makes it more happy or sad.

did you remove the delivery valve and spring?

no i did not. i know not of this. the manual said nothing. i'll look into it. thanks

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM615OM616InjPumpTiming

thank you much. i looked for that in the search but couldn't find it.

The fist time you drip time it is way easier if someone else keeps pumping on the Hand Primer to keep the pressure up while you busy yourself with rotating th IP and counting the drips.
Don't forget there is one Bolt and nut at the very rear underside of the IP that needs to be loosened.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

If you follow the FSM, then you don't need to pump the primer other than to fill the secondary fuel filter. I just timed my 617 the other weekend and did both methods. They both resulted in the same IP timing, and not pumping the primer makes the job easier.

You need to:

1. Remove IP hardline for injector #1
2. Remove delivery valve holder
3. Remove delivery valve and spring
4. Install delivery valve holder
5. Install drip tube
6. Loosen fuel line (return) banjo on top of seconday fuel filter
7. Pump primer to fill secondary fuel filter
8. Disconnect vacuum shut-off line from actuator
9. Wire throttle to full-load stop
10. Rotate engine clockwise till you reach the compression stroke of cylinder #1
11. Hold short of the required IP timing, start around 30-40* BTDC
12. Fuel should start flowing out of drip tube, if it doesn't pump the primer a little and rotate the engine a couple of times, returning to 30-40* BTDC and it should be flowing
13. Now slowly rotate the engine clockwise till the drips reach a rate of 1 drop/sec and that's your current IP timing.
14. Then just loosen the IP, adjust, and recheck the timing (be sure to keep the secondary fuel filter full).

Don't forget to remove the vacuum line to the shutoff valve and wire the throttle to full open.

thanks

. The most likely thing wrong here . Is that the first cylinder cam lobes have to be pointing generally upward when you have the 24 degrees on the balancer. If they were to be pointing generally down rotate the engine one turn to the 24 degree mark and try again.

The injection pump does not rotate at the same speed as the crank. So two positions do occur. Verify those cam lobes are pointing generally upward at your current 24 degree position. This may be something you have already done but thought I better throw it in. It may be something else as well.

I too would like to see this overall injection pump timing to be the issue. The problem is the engine would have hammered on all cylinders.

No harm to set the injection pump timing properly still. The milli volts are still going to be needed. Although your indication or general description does not bode well for the individual sequential timing of the pump to have been disturbed. It still is a possibility that should be checked out.

Drip Timing Threads
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/197093-drip-timing-threads.html#post1591609

thanks for all the links and help.

i'm done with the timimg, and it didn't make a difference on the knock/nailing (maybe quieted it a bit but i may be hearing wrong) but it does give me smoke at idle now. the difference between dip and no drip was about .5mm. i didn't see the pump move when i tightened it down but i couldn't see it all the time.

i'll do it again with someone to help me some time next week and try the constant drip method. at the same time, after one more timing evening, i'll meter the glow plugs.

i still have plenty of power, and the vehicle accelerates well. just has that awful sound. also, the temp gauge climbs too fast for there not to be an issue on top somewhere (or if it were a gasser that would be my guess). i just don't want to deal with the head and find nothing. and i want to love my 300D again.

Strong nailing
Strong nailing

Injector + Heat shield + Nozzle, Prechamber + Collar and Nailing. LINK THREAD
Injector + Heat shield + Nozzle, Prechamber + Collar, and Nailing. LINK THREAD