|
|
|
#31
|
||||
|
||||
Repair
Quote:
I picked up a radiator repair kit yesterday at the local NAPA store . . . thanks for the "hot" warning . . . and have the cracked elbow piece removed for cleaning and sanding. Will reassemble before applying the epoxy and Fiberglas® so I don't get glue on the sealing surfaces. I might use a cable tie to keep the wrap tight around the elbow piece while the epoxy sets up. Will post pictures when it's done. Jeremy
__________________
"Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
#32
|
||||
|
||||
Valve repair
Here are some pictures of the valve repair process using the "radiator repair kit" from the auto parts store. The kit I bought was NAPA part number 765-1544, which sells for about $20. That's a lot for a piece of Fiberglas® fabric and an epoxy glue package but a lot less expensive than a new valve/aux pump.
The glue will stick a lot better if you use the sandpaper in the kit to rough up the plastic surface of the cracked part of the valve. To make it easier to handle I took the valve apart and cut a strip of sandpaper. Once the plastic surface was roughed up, I blew off the dust, rinsed off the plastic with alcohol, and put the valve back together. With the assembly lightly clamped in a vice, I mixed some of the epoxy (I used only part of the package) and wrapped an epoxy-soaked strip of Fiberglas® around the valve. The epoxy has a very short working life (only a few minutes) so you have to work fast. When the epoxy starts to cure it gets very warm and that's your signal that your time is up. By the time I had the Fiberglas® wrapped around the valve the epoxy was starting to harden and I had to mix a second batch to smear on top. I was glad I hadn't mixed all the epoxy at once. I'm going to give the epoxy 24 hours to completely cure (the kit says 20 minutes) before installing the valve in the car. I'll post results. Jeremy
__________________
"Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
#33
|
|||
|
|||
I stopped by our local indy shop on Saturday- the guy who runs the place said to take the valve off by the 4 screws and if the diaphragm is torn there is a rebuild kit that is 1/3 the price. When I did that it was not torn, so I think I need a new one. I cleaned up all the electrical contacts and hoped it would work but it still pushes hot air into the cabin with the AC on...
__________________
1995 E300 diesel |
#34
|
|||
|
|||
try smacking the valve lightly with a hammer, when I bought my car it was stuck - aka no heat, one tap and it worked thereafter.
Also this is one of a reason to use the correct BASF Glysantin (ZerexG05) coolants in our cars, its quite slick and keeps moving parts moving.
__________________
2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model) 1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017) 2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017) |
#35
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
|
#36
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
__________________
1995 E300 diesel |
#37
|
||||
|
||||
Monovalve diagnosis
Quote:
You can test the solenoid with the monovalve taken apart or even with it still in the car; momentarily touch 12 volts to the terminals (polarity does not matter -- I just tested mine) and you should get a firm and obvious "thunk" as the solenoid pulls the metal cylinder up into the coil. The connection you make with your jumper wires should spark a little. If you do not get a "thunk" and do not see a little sparking then the solenoid may be burned out. You can test it with an Ohmmeter; the DC resistance of a good solenoid is about 12 Ohms. AFAIK all W124 monovalves use the same solenoid; you should be able to get a monovalve (whether the kind combined with the aux pump like ours or the ones with the separate valve and pump) from a junkyard 124 or from a forum member who sells such stuff and rob the solenoid from it. If the solenoid seems to be working but you still get heat when you don't want it, try clamping off the hose that comes out of the aux pump and goes to the thermostat housing. This hose is on the other side of the inner firewall near the coolant expansion tank. Use padded vice-grips to clamp that hose and the flow of coolant will be shut off. If that stops the heat then the valve is definitely leaking. Unfortunately the valve in the '95 E300 is unique to that one model because it is a two-way valve (a very few late 1993 model year 300D-2.5 cars used that valve too). Here's a picture of the monovalve taken apart: Some of the rubber parts may be common with other 124 monovalves but I'm afraid that if yours indeed has a leak rather than a stuck solenoid you may have no choice but to replace the entire assembly. Jeremy
__________________
"Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
#38
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
How does the valve work exactly- does the current push the valve up which pulls the pointy thing out of the way and allows the coolant to flow?
__________________
1995 E300 diesel |
#39
|
||||
|
||||
Monovalve explained
Quote:
The solenoid pulls the brass pointy valve up, yes, allowing coolant to flow through the heater core. Notice also that the middle of the valve assembly also has a brass pointy thing pointing in the other direction. When the solenoid is not energized, that section allows coolant to flow through the bypass line (runs behind the engine, in parallel with the circuit through the heater core). The idea is that there will always be coolant flowing out of the back of the head, whether through the heater core or through the bypass line, and returning to the thermostat housing on the right front of the block. My guess is that this helps keep the head at a constant temperature, which helps smog control. If this were a electric switch it would be generically called "SPDT" for "Single-Pole Double-Throw." I can't think of a plumbing analogy. Jeremy
__________________
"Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
#40
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I will try the troubleshooting you related above, thank you! So I guess if I buy the new monovalve I end up getting the whole shooting match in your photo above.
__________________
1995 E300 diesel |
#41
|
||||
|
||||
Jeremy, I thought the monovalve closes when not energized... therefore defaulting to max heat if there is no electrical signal. So when energized, it should block off the hot coolant flow. Right?
Disclaimer: I've never taken one apart to experiment with. |
#42
|
|||
|
|||
the monovalve is only $95, I will have it tomorrow
__________________
1995 E300 diesel |
#43
|
||||
|
||||
Correct, I had it backwards.
__________________
"Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
#44
|
||||
|
||||
It will be interesting to see what you get for $95. The correct factory part, 001-830-40-84, is closer to $500. Please keep us informed.
Jeremy
__________________
"Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
#45
|
|||
|
|||
maybe its just the valve and not the whole assembly? The guy has been around forever, German guy with thick accent thats why I stopped in last Saturday with a photo. His son usually handles the parts but he is on vacation
__________________
1995 E300 diesel |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|