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  #61  
Old 07-10-2013, 12:26 PM
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not sure, but it is the correct part and I am glad to find it. When I first showed up the owner said he just sold the identical complete car with a dead motor. Then he said lets go check another similar one and it was the right part. I had to wait for him to pull the part which was OK because it started raining and I was on my bike and by the time I left the rain had stopped. Plus I got to hang with his smoking hot daughter while he did it

Bummed that I missed out on the complete parts car as there were a few other things I could use.
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1995 E300 diesel
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  #62  
Old 07-10-2013, 12:37 PM
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Monovalves

It depends on what specifically 'Freesoul' was looking for. Monovalves for the W124 series probably all use the same electric coil (the metal part). Differences from one model to another are usually in the plastic "plumbing" part of the monovalve. In the case of the W124.131 (E300D), the valve is a 2-way valve so there are more differences and that part is unique to that model, except (again) for the electric coil. SO it depends on exactly what Freesoul got at the junkyard.

The 124.030 (E320) has a very similar monovalve/pump combination -- I own one -- but it is not the correct replacement for the one in the 124.131. We need Freesoul to post a picture of his prize. The picture below shows the E320 and E300 monovalves. Notice the greater height of the E300 valve body, because it is a 2-way valve, and the extra "spigot."

Jeremy

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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-biodiesel family
1995 E300D (W124) . .239,000 miles My car
1996 E300D (W210) . .313,000 miles Wife's car
Santa Rosa population 170,685 (2012)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 722,685
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970

Last edited by Jeremy5848; 07-10-2013 at 12:45 PM. Reason: Add photo
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  #63  
Old 07-10-2013, 01:12 PM
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Gdammit- I bought the E320 monovalve.....
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  #64  
Old 07-10-2013, 01:54 PM
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You should be able to use the gasser monovalve if you tee the bypass line downstream of the aux pump. You can throw in a 123 or 126 inline aux pump for good measure then wire the main aux pump to run only when the monovalve is open Or you can cap the bypass line unless the Diesel washer heater isn't rated for as much flow as its gasser counterpart.

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87 300D
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  #65  
Old 07-10-2013, 06:46 PM
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could I pull the good solenoid off and put it on mine? Or is the length of the valve different? Just called the shop I got the wrong part from, they confirmed its a $500+ part.

Hoping to find another used one locally....
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  #66  
Old 07-10-2013, 07:43 PM
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Monovalve

Quote:
Originally Posted by freesoul View Post
could I pull the good solenoid off and put it on mine? Or is the length of the valve different? Just called the shop I got the wrong part from, they confirmed its a $500+ part.

Hoping to find another used one locally....
The electrical (metal) part is the same; the difference is in the valving (the stuff in the plastic body). The E320 has a simple ON-OFF valve while the E300 has a two-way valve: coolant ALWAYS flows from the back of the head. If it flows through the heater core you get heat in the cabin; if it flows through the bypass line you don't get heat in the cabin. The monovalve decides which way the coolant flows.

IN my opinion, the constant coolant flow keeps the head at a more constant temperature for smog reasons. I don't think it will hurt the engine is that flow were interrupted -- but again, that is just my opinion and I'm afraid to blow up my engine finding out!

You could simply block the bypass line and connect the two lines from the heater core to the E320 monovalve / pump. I don't think the bypass line is absolutely necessary, but that is just an opinion. The gasoline engines have no trouble with such an arrangement, it's only the diesel that has the bypass hose.

Have you taken the valve apart to see what is wrong with it? Here are two pictures that show how the valve works.

Jeremy




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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-biodiesel family
1995 E300D (W124) . .239,000 miles My car
1996 E300D (W210) . .313,000 miles Wife's car
Santa Rosa population 170,685 (2012)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 722,685
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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  #67  
Old 07-10-2013, 10:50 PM
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I took the top off with the unit still in the car to verify that the diaphragm was not torn, a little nervous to take that solenoid apart further for fear of damaging it more, it is a daily driver. I tried knocking it gently with a hammer as suggested in this thread.

I found it as inexpensive as $388 online, hoping to find it at another local parts yard.
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  #68  
Old 07-10-2013, 10:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freesoul View Post
I found it as inexpensive as $388 online, hoping to find it at another local parts yard.
If you're referring to p/n 001-830-40-84, where did you find it for $388? Lowest price I've seen is $466...

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1997 E420 - 155kmi (Bugeyes)
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  #69  
Old 07-11-2013, 03:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freesoul View Post
I took the top off with the unit still in the car to verify that the diaphragm was not torn, a little nervous to take that solenoid apart further for fear of damaging it more, it is a daily driver. I tried knocking it gently with a hammer as suggested in this thread.

I found it as inexpensive as $388 online, hoping to find it at another local parts yard.
Unlike earlier monovalves, ours does not have a "diaphragm" that can rupture. The "pointy brass thing" seats in a rubber seal that you can't quite see very well in my pictures -- the seal is part gasket and part o-ring. It's possible that dirt (rocks, etc.) from the cooling system has gotten jammed into the rubber, preventing the valve from closing properly. Then you'd always get hot coolant to the heater core and your a/c would seem to not work, lukewarm at best.

Jeremy
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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-biodiesel family
1995 E300D (W124) . .239,000 miles My car
1996 E300D (W210) . .313,000 miles Wife's car
Santa Rosa population 170,685 (2012)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 722,685
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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  #70  
Old 07-11-2013, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy5848 View Post
Unlike earlier monovalves, ours does not have a "diaphragm" that can rupture. The "pointy brass thing" seats in a rubber seal that you can't quite see very well in my pictures -- the seal is part gasket and part o-ring. It's possible that dirt (rocks, etc.) from the cooling system has gotten jammed into the rubber, preventing the valve from closing properly. Then you'd always get hot coolant to the heater core and your a/c would seem to not work, lukewarm at best.

Jeremy
well I put power to it and no click although I did get a spark when touching the terminals. Is the solenoid easy to take apart and put back together without damaging? My concern is I try to do that and then I have nothing to drive.
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  #71  
Old 07-11-2013, 11:09 AM
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Easy to take apart even with monovalve still in car. Drain a couple of quarts from radiator until you see expansion tank empty, to recent spills. Disconnect electrical plug. Remove 4 screws (Torx) around metal solenoid of monovalve. Note position of pieces (photos are good to help reassemble). Lift up solenoid and all connected pieces. Examine for damage or other source of your problem. Should take only a half hour.
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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-biodiesel family
1995 E300D (W124) . .239,000 miles My car
1996 E300D (W210) . .313,000 miles Wife's car
Santa Rosa population 170,685 (2012)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 722,685
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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  #72  
Old 09-23-2016, 01:49 PM
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Smile 1987 Mercedes 300DT

Quote:
Originally Posted by babymog View Post
I have had this in two 124s, both times they were the Bosch CCU and replacing the unit solved it. It would even start air-conditioning the car when the unit was off!

The Bosch unit has problems, there was a recall at one point.
I have a1987 Mercedes 300D and the center vent will not work for hot or cold air, the other vents work and the ac works. You mentioned a bad Bosch CCU, what did you replace it with and do you know the part number or better description where to find? I was thinking one of the pink actuators was not working, just starting to troubleshoot this.
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  #73  
Old 09-23-2016, 01:50 PM
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my email is kimbo@insurance4idaho.com
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  #74  
Old 09-24-2016, 02:57 AM
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Center vent

Quote:
Originally Posted by kimevans View Post
I have a1987 Mercedes 300D and the center vent will not work for hot or cold air, the other vents work and the ac works. You mentioned a bad Bosch CCU, what did you replace it with and do you know the part number or better description where to find? I was thinking one of the pink actuators was not working, just starting to troubleshoot this.
Center vent failure in 124 climate control is typically the vacuum pod. Check by removing the glove box (air bag in later 124s). Locate the vacuum manifold just to the left of the hole you've exposed in the dash. Remove the line from the manifold to the center vent pod (unsure if it's #4, been a long time since I last looked) and pull a vacuum on that line. If it won't hold a vacuum the pod is bad.

Unfortunately, changing the pod requires pulling the dash, a large job, not difficult just several hours of work, especially the first time. Another option is to jam open the flap that the pod controls, so the center vent is open all the time. You can manually close the vent if it's ever needed. Plug that line so you don't have a vacuum leak.

Jeremy
__________________

"Buster" in the '95

Our all-biodiesel family
1995 E300D (W124) . .239,000 miles My car
1996 E300D (W210) . .313,000 miles Wife's car
Santa Rosa population 170,685 (2012)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 722,685
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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  #75  
Old 10-25-2016, 04:39 PM
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I'm currently on the 7th replacement mono valve assembly for my 95 E300, starting in January of this year and taking the car back to the dealership with each failure for replacement. To their credit, the local MB dealership has never charged me for any repairs due to the part being under warranty. The latest valve supposedly came from a new source, after leaving the car with the dealership in June and getting it back just last week. However, after 10 days and 300 miles, the elbow attachment for the bypass is again leaking at the top edge like in the other pictures.

The Assistant and Main service managers both didn't have any other options for me prior to this latest valve, with both expressing hope that this one would work and not fail. They took off the old unit months ago, so there is no hope in getting it back. I'm torn between fixing it myself using the plastic epoxy mentioned one page back and voiding any remaining warranty coverage, but having a drivable car, or returning for more of the same. I forwarded the links to this thread and others covering the problem regarding the plastic formulation issue, but they won't modify the part with the epoxy for warranty repair reasons.
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