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#16
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Quote:
Speaking of the 7-port solenoid / valve... anyone else experience the "rapid clicking" problem, usually when the car is cold (i.e., first few minutes after starting it in the morning)? Seems to clear up after warmup and not return until the next AM. Have had that on a couple cars... never investigated to see what was the culprit, but different p/b units didn't seem to change it. |
#17
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I have an '84 without the oscillating wiper. The newer one I put on was from a 90 -something w201 |
#18
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I believe the oscillating wiper was first introduced on the 201, about 1985 maybe. However, the 201 and 124 versions don't interchange, the windshields are different sizes.
__________________
"Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
#19
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I am having the rapid clicking on occasion as Dave suggested. However most of the time my A/C is cutting on and off and I hear a click. When I press the "O" to turn the system off, it clicks off, but when I release it, it turns back on. On occasion it will click several times on its own which makes me think that there is a bad connection in the CCU. The other buttons work on a hit or miss basis but primarily the A/C is simply running all the time except for rare occasions when the "O" position actually holds. Sometimes it will also go from AC to heat randomly.
I think I do have some vacuum pod issues but I can live with that for the time. Any thoughts?
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1987 300TDT - 195,000 (Original #14 head) 1993 190E 2.3 - 105,000 1981 300D - 250,000 |
#20
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Diverter pod
The purpose of the diverter unit is to allow two different streams of air into the car. The primary stream will be heated and/or cooled and then vented through the side/floor and defrost vents. The second stream of air, which is uncooled and/or unheated comes out the center vent.
In essence this allows the car to have both processed air and fresh air at the same time. However, the center vent will sometimes vent fresh air and sometimes vent heated and/or cooled air. It's pretty easy when it is 50 F outside to tell my unit to heat with the resultant warm air out my side and floor and at the same time have fresh, unheated air come out the middle. On the w124, at least pre-passenger air-bag, the dash removal and pod replacement is surprisingly easy. I'm still trying to find where the system draws in the recirculated air from the interior. |
#21
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I have had this in two 124s, both times they were the Bosch CCU and replacing the unit solved it. It would even start air-conditioning the car when the unit was off!
The Bosch unit has problems, there was a recall at one point. Quote:
__________________
Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#22
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Quote:
__________________
Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#23
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I read a post about a guy replacing a transducer or something on one...surely there is a way to resolder it instead of just replacing it!
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1987 300TDT - 195,000 (Original #14 head) 1993 190E 2.3 - 105,000 1981 300D - 250,000 |
#24
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I never said the center vent was heated.
Jeremy had initially asked, "what's the purpose of the diverter." I answered and said, "it allows fresh air to come through the center vent while heated/cooled air goes through the other vents." |
#25
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Very nicely done, Jeremy. Glad to see this in the DIY articles. I was looking for some info on the vacuum manifold today . . . this is exactly what I needed. Much appreciated.
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'95 E300D ("Tank") - 231,000 miles '79 240D ("Biscuit") - 197,250 miles (Sold) '83 240D ("Ding-Ding") - 217,000 miles (Death by deer) ______________________________________ "Back off, man. I’m a scientist” ~ Peter Venkman |
#26
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Resurrecting an old thread- I have a problem with my 95 W124 that I am getting heat as well as A/C. The center vents don't open, tonight I stuck a pen in and forced them open. Now I am getting cold air there plus a little heated to the one side.
Here is my heater valve in the engine compartment- its been leaking since I've had the car 3 years ago LOL, could that be part of the problem?
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1995 E300 diesel |
#27
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Monovalve
Quote:
The leaking monovalve might be part of your problem. I've been investigating this problem since mine started leaking in January. A replacement is $500 so the best solution seems to be to get a "radiator patch kit" (Fiberglas® cloth + Epoxy glue) and make a repair. I'm about to try that -- others have reported success. I've reported the problem to my dealer who has sent word to the factory in Germany -- whether they'll listen is another matter. This combination monovalve/aux pump is unique to the 1995 E300D except for a very few late-1993 300D-2.5 Turbo engines. Since all are now 18+ years old, I doubt very much whether Mercedes really wants to do anything about it. If your monovalve is not closing completely, it could be allowing hot coolant into the heater core even when the a/c is running. That could give you hot and cold air. It sounds like you also have a problem with your vents, which could be one or more of the vacuum actuators that open the flaps. SOme of the vacuum actuators (they have rubber diaphragms that can rupture) are easy to get at, others require pulling the dash. This is not a terribly difficult job but it takes a fair amount of time -- there are a couple of good DIYs here somewhere. Jeremy
__________________
"Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
#28
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Yeah its the OM606 diesel. I think I priced that valve out before and it wasnt nearly that much. Anyways its been leaking for 3 years and I lose a little antifreeze from time to time so its due for replacement.
I will get a price tomorrow and update on the vacuum pod using the info you posted here.
__________________
1995 E300 diesel |
#29
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For the center vent issues, start by checking the vacuum lines from the engine to the HVAC vac feed near the brake booster. Then check the individual lines at the 7-port manifold behind the passenger airbag.
The warm air problem is pretty likely the monovalve as Jeremy suggested, although the current replacements seem to be defective... d'oh. |
#30
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If your valve is faulty - locate any other valve and do a gut swap, similar with the pump, MB made this certain assembly on a modular design (i honestly think an intern was appointed and yelled at constantly while making it)
the elbow piece that leaks looks like it was tacked on later, its not part of the original mold - mine actually broke off and I did a very careful and neat repair on it - The only plastic bond is between a very thin collar on the inside. I use the radiator tank repair kit on it (its very very hot when mixed)
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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model) 1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017) 2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017) |
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