Now, how big are the units? Would they fit under the hood? I'm just thinking about leaving the setup all stock except for the compressor.

I know I probably will not do anything, but you never know! My house uses the R410A.

How would the AH @ 18,000 BTU translate to say something like "uses 16 amps when operating"?

Ok, I have the solution.

Bucket of Ice/water with the bilge pump. Run a long hose from the pump through the seat back and bottom and then back into the ice water. You could even run a longer hose through both seats.


Then in the winter, you could run some coolant through it. 180 degree seats OOOOOWWWW HOTTTTTT!

so pretty much you want an over complicated swamp cooler

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2185/...d9141781cd.jpg

Did anyone on here ever see America's Worst Driver (I think thats what it was called, it was dumb didn't last too long). They had a car with a huge clear box tank on the roof. There were hoses placed in the upper corners of the tank that ran down into the car above the driver and and passenger. Any sudden movment, turn, stop would force the water down the tube onto the occupants. If you make sure your doors are sealed tightly you could have a mini wading pool. :D

http://blog.niot.net/blog-images/ame...el-channel.jpg

also if this system is going to work what about the price of ice and the expense it will be

$2 for a bag of ice can get pricey after a while

As long as we are free thinking, why not use a venturi system. This is what small airplanes use (ACM - air cooling machine). They all use bleed air from the engines, hence, not much cool air while on the ground. This, however, could possibly be resolved by using an electric motor in a car. The cheap route: weld together 2 metal funnels at the skinny ends and then mount an electric motor at one end to force ambient air thru at the front end. If you can achieve enough pressure, the air exiting the opposite end will be super cooled from the low pressure in the middle of the venturi. You may not, however, be able to achieve enough presure inside the venturi with the electric motor, so another possibility is an extra turbo from a 300D, which could be mounted aft of the regular turbo with piped-in ambient air to the squirrel cage.

Mine is EXACTLY like that except it is a gold color. It has the same sticker on it.

I would sell it for $200 and then you problems would be solved.

new swamp cooler
 

New swamp coolers are available:

http://www.classicaire.com/ProductProfile.htm

The principle here is when the water evaporates from the cooler, it takes heat from the air, cooling it. I'm originally from southern La., and these things never worked well with the humidity so high and the air so full of water vapor at the start.

There's all sorts of other schemes. I once thought of using liquid nitrogen. (it can be had for $0.10/L, about a quart) and just spraying it into a heater core. Or just spray it out into the car, as long as there's small amounts of it. You'll die if you try to live on straight nitrogen.

And seriously, I've seen a working a/c for automobile installation that used air as the working fluid. It was not in a car at the time. It compressed air, heating it, cooled the air with a "radiator"/fan set up, then used a "expansion valve" (just a pin hole) to expand the air. It put out very cold air, a fog like out of a freezer. It worked well as a demo. I think it would have to have a steady supply of clean air to be reliable.

Ron

No practical air conditioning probably did him in.:rolleyes:

Took 3 hrs to plumb and wire the pump. Top 2 lines into exp valve are the IN and OUT to the evap. Cut fittings off the copper tubes and ran new lines thru vents to passenger floor to pump and cooler.

95 degree ambient today..
using a small cooler for first test and about 2 trays ice water I got 75 degrees at the vent for about 20 minutes.

With a standard size cooler plumbed in and bigger blocks I should be able keep cool for 2 to 3 hrs.

I will not need to buy ice.....someone has invented this thing called a deep freeze, its amazing. Just put water in it and it freezes it for free. A 5 gallon bucket block of ice fits perfect inside the cooler. I'm hoping it will lengthen the cooling period. Everything is Temporary....

My $300 airport commuter car (odometer stopped at 330k) is back to blowing cold air again. Thanks for all the input and ideas.

No, the ice made in the freezer is NOT free. When you put water in the freezer, the heat must be removed from the water to produce ice. The compressor runs a lot longer while this heat is being removed, thus spinning the electric meter more.

1) fix AC

2) open windows

3) move to Canada

Oh wait.........you said "useful".



...... nevermind.

I'd love to have a swamp cooler for my future ACVW.. not to use since its too humid in FL but its just a cool accessory

Wow, if that is the best you got, I've really got you thinking with my FRED SANFORD a/c system.:)

I should invent a way to run my household electrical load using one of my diesels when the power goes out in the winter and hear all the negative comments about that..... oh wait, I already did.

A metal plate bolted to the car, 6000w gen head, a belt, and an 10 gage wire to the fuse panel, bump the idle, port the exhaust and IVE GOT POWER....

I should quit all this tinkering and start TWITTERING like the rest of you...

Got any BTU BS for that one???

So you came on here to ask for advice and now you are trying to imply how creative you are and take shots on everyone else. Yepp you're the best, most smartest, most creative, individual among us. Another TROLL thread and I'm out of this one. Thanks

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For your info Doc Sarvis I came on here asking for info about the ins and out of of the evap. (check the thread) and all I got was shots across my bow by crotchedy old goomers that only know 1 way to do something. And that if your opinion differs, you are automatically wrong.

This is a Forum....look up the definition. This should be a place to discuss ideas freely...

All I was asking for was ideas how to cool a $300 car with 330k+ miles without doubling my $$ in the car and there were some good ideas and then there were guys like you that only read what you agree with and the rest is foolishness because its a new idea or different.

Telsa would be be proud of you.:cool:

Lots of flames here, and some smoke. Personally I enjoyed this thread. Ingenuity is the mother of invention. Would love to see some pictures of the completed project. Its a shame there had to be flames and smoke, but that happens a lot around here.

Your post is difficult to follow, but working through to the last sentence, it sounds as if you are stating that my post you quoted was BS. I PROMISE you that putting a five gallon bucket of water in your freezer to make ice will INDEED increase your electric bill and will not produce ice for FREE. The ice will be less expensive than if you bought it at Seven Eleven, but it won't be free. How is that BS?

After your response to Doc I went back and perused this entire thread. MOST of the posters, most especially rrgrassi, were being open minded and helpful in your search for opinions and information.

Some of the posters, including myself, did some related hijacking regarding auto evaporative coolers and aircraft items that help relieve extreme heat.

Other posters, again including myself, were providing some information based on facts. I don't think ANYONE who posted any facts were flaming you. Rather they were pointing out information for your consideration.

NOW, if you want to call people names like "crotchety old goomers," then you need to be prepared for a change in tone of the responses you are getting.

My first post, one simple question....

What is deep freeze?

Nothing is free, but if the person who owns it lets you use it, it may give you no out of pocket cost. Which is great!

Take pictures of the cooler, plumbing, and a thermometer at the vent, I am interested in seeing the whole thing work.

My second post, same question...

Follow the thread again and see if anyone answers my only question...

I still wish you had used the heater core instead. 75 at the vent won't get you much cooling.

If I had used the heater core, wouldn't I lose my heat to defrost?

See all those little tubes in the picture? It's going to be hard to get water through there. I am going to go out on a limb, and say that I think that it's impossible to get enough water through there to have any effective cooling. I think you'll get just a few degrees of cooling at best out of that kind of thing. It won't be worth it. You would do better sitting in the ice bucket.

Wow, another one...
Anyway.. I don't have a photobucket account so I'm going to try to put the pics on my USER CP.

I got almost 70 degrees peak at the vent using 1 ice block from an orange juice container. But the average vent temp was 75 for about 45 min outside with windows up and 95 degree ambient.

Pics are up under the title "Fred Sanford A/C". Would have liked to have used my blue cooler to match the interior but the red one had more volume. Found a fresh water pump in all my boat crap that I used to pump water to my baitwell. The green garden hose was already on the pump and it fit perfectly on the bigger line going to the evap. The clear line I already had from my WVO filter gadget. The pic of my condenser is another reason I chose to try this experiment. My biggest concern was not $350 for the parts(more for condenser) to redo the a/c, thats still a $650 car. The concern is that I put money into it and the engine falls out of it on 75South.

Looks good. Did you close your outside air flap behind the glove compartment?
On 86 and newer W126 vehicles, you can hit the Recirc switch and that closes the outside air flap completely so you only have recirculated air. On 85 and older W126 it only closes 80% dependent on the inside and outside temps. If you close off the outside air completely during the hot months, you might get some cooler air out of the vents.

Thanks for the info. I will verify that it is completely closed. That will help. I also have not sealed the 2 holes running thru the firewall from the exp valve to the lowside and rec/dry that I remove. I will tighten it up before I leave on my maiden voyage this evening.

Your first post had another simple question:

"Does anyone see a problem with my plan?

Were you driving the car or sitting still for this test? Shade or sunshine?
I'll be watching to see how the maiden voyage turns out. So far I was pretty close on my predictions.
Good luck!

cj.... I couldn't find in the thread where you predicted a 20 degree drop in ambient temp at the vent, but thanks for cheering me on. I really appreciate it.:D

Wired vent door closed at fan and sealed firewall, this should help alot. If I can keep 75 degree air blowing across the evap I should stay cooler longer before my BTUs run out of my ice.

If you used the TXV for your tapping into the evaporator point, I hope you gutted it first, otherwise you will have a serious flow impedance in the H Block. A large drill bit will clean it out.

A salt brine / ice mixture will get even colder temps while still remaining liquid, but will certainly be more corrosive that plain water.

SteveM.

Very true, and a slurry of ice and water will be colder than ice itself.

I will try adding salt, I can flush the system with clean water afterwards.
Thanks...

The Exp valve is completely removed, along with bottom 2 lines going thru the firewall, and I cut the threaded fittings off that go into the top of the Exp vlv. and installed my hoses there.

I also bypassed the complete vacumm manifold and plugged the main vacumm muscle into #5 which gives me all vent air and nothing else. It does not effect defrost, it still works at the windshield and its hot.

Closing the vent door behind the glovebox made a HUGE difference....I'm going to close it on all the cars. Is there any reason why you shouldn't? As bad as my vacumm a/c sys leaks they probably don't work the way they should. If I want fresh air I'll use the windows.

CO2
 

Too bad it's beyond your budget (5lb bottle refills at weld shops, fire extinguisher suppliers, etc range from $ 8.00 to $20.) But it would be interesting to see how close you could get to the −78.5 °C (−109.3 °F) at the vents and how long the dry ice would last in the evap.

maybe close the rear vent, that will give you more air in the front.

[QUOTE=netboy;2520252]I will try adding salt, I can flush the system with clean water afterwards.
Thanks.../QUOTE]

Put antifreeze in the cooler, should also depress the melting point, not as corrosive.

I saw a youtube video of a cooler based A/c system.

For example: It's Enginerd!!:cool:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZJQG1VZ3qu4&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o0teeoOwfYo&feature=related

honestly, if i had to choose between doing nothing to my ac system and having my windows stuck in the up position, or moving to canada, i'd choose the former. even if i lived in death valley

Sounds like you would fit right in at the coffee break table where I work.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=805289

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attac...1&d=1248185285

please please please, be sure when you decide to sell your car, let the buyer know you have run water through the evaporator... uh, it's supposed to remain dry. water, (and all the chemicals from the utilities department) will totally contaminate the coil REQUIRING replacement of the coil if anyone ever wants to have stock a/c again... ever changed the evaporator in one of these cars before?
also, aluminum totally corrodes in very short order when in contact with untreated water... your evaporator will be full of holes in very little time...
enjoy your mildly cool air while you can.
and if you pump salt through it it will dissolve/corrode MUCH faster! if you must use salt, put the crushed ice in a sealed bag with the salt to limit the contamination into the coil.

It would probably work if the outside dewpoint of the air is 55 degrees or less. I doubt that would be the case in florida for most of the summer. If the dewpoint is higher you will just get wet not cooler. A/C systems not only remove the heat from the air they also reduce the moisture content. What you are trying to build is an evaporative cooler.

Living in Arizona I have alot of experience with Evap coolers. they work great when the monsoon season is gone. I think florida in the summer is almost always high humidity which nullifies the benefits of evap coolers.

I live in Las Vegas and am very familiar with evaporative aka (swamp) coolers and I am HVAC/R technician by trade for many years. Im not vouching for if the topic system will work or not but i just wanted to correct above statement. Evaporative coolers are directly cooling the air with water causing the humidity rise. The system the OP designed is indirectly cooling the air and not adding any humidity other than if he leaves the ice chest open and it evaporates. The air across the evap coil will not gain humidity at all but unfortunately will not be cold enough to remove it by condensation either. So humidity is not gianed or lost really. On a side note.. Here in vegas we use two stage evap coolers in industrial settings with direct cooling as first stage also cooling the water before it travels thru the inside of a indirect cooling section to cool the air a second time without added humidity. Lots of tricks to removing heat or "cooling" .

P.S. This was just for info only not a attack or "flaming" anybody. Just my contribution to the thread. :)

Arlo

This should work just fine...
 

Howdy!

I have seen this exact type of system used on drag cars to cool the supercharger air-water intercooler. It works really well for two or three passes.

A large Ice chest should last long enough to get you to and from work as long as your commute is not more than an hour or so...

"Goomer," he says... Now that there is just plain funny. ;)

Kevin

the ice chest cooler will indeed work in this situation. 32°F Ice chilled water pumped into the coil will have the heat removal phase change of the ice, and IF there is enough ice and water slurry pushed through the coil, it will actually cool better than freon would, as the evaporator coil is only partially filled with liquid, the entire coil will be full of water in the "cooler" unit. until the ice all melts. in the a/c system low pressure liquid is pushed into approximately 40% of the coil and hot air is pushed across the coil forcing a phase change in the coil from liquid to gas. this phase change pulls 940buth /lb of refrigerant boiled, water will already have this phase change from solid to liquid so you only get the heat transfer of the water intself, no active phase change to absorb additional heat. hard to say if it will absorb as much heat or not.
it's your car, do with it as you will, I just hate to see that coil in a year... or less.

Nothing new,Thermador Car Cooler
http://www.oldeskool.org/wp-content/...120&w=120&zc=1




Thermador Car Cooler

http://www.oldeskool.org/wp-content/...120&w=120&zc=1

AC Problem
 

Actually, rather than going through all of that, why don't you set up a two-battery system, hook up a high-watt inverter and pick up a small-watt AC at BestBuy or like store, and develop a water-sealed rubber support system around the sunroof and run the AC from the top of the car. Since you're not an 18-wheeler, you don't usually have to worry about upper clearances . . . ROFL. If you're gonna jerryrig it, may as well do it right . . . . .ROFL!!!!

Torie