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-   -   A cheaper more primitive a/c system (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/282267-cheaper-more-primitive-c-system.html)

netboy 08-06-2010 09:26 AM

Wow, another one...
Anyway.. I don't have a photobucket account so I'm going to try to put the pics on my USER CP.

I got almost 70 degrees peak at the vent using 1 ice block from an orange juice container. But the average vent temp was 75 for about 45 min outside with windows up and 95 degree ambient.

netboy 08-06-2010 09:52 AM

Pics are up under the title "Fred Sanford A/C". Would have liked to have used my blue cooler to match the interior but the red one had more volume. Found a fresh water pump in all my boat crap that I used to pump water to my baitwell. The green garden hose was already on the pump and it fit perfectly on the bigger line going to the evap. The clear line I already had from my WVO filter gadget. The pic of my condenser is another reason I chose to try this experiment. My biggest concern was not $350 for the parts(more for condenser) to redo the a/c, thats still a $650 car. The concern is that I put money into it and the engine falls out of it on 75South.

brandlj 08-06-2010 10:10 AM

Looks good. Did you close your outside air flap behind the glove compartment?
On 86 and newer W126 vehicles, you can hit the Recirc switch and that closes the outside air flap completely so you only have recirculated air. On 85 and older W126 it only closes 80% dependent on the inside and outside temps. If you close off the outside air completely during the hot months, you might get some cooler air out of the vents.

netboy 08-06-2010 10:22 AM

Thanks for the info. I will verify that it is completely closed. That will help. I also have not sealed the 2 holes running thru the firewall from the exp valve to the lowside and rec/dry that I remove. I will tighten it up before I leave on my maiden voyage this evening.

cjlipps 08-06-2010 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by netboy (Post 2519961)
My first post, one simple question....

Your first post had another simple question:

"Does anyone see a problem with my plan?

cjlipps 08-06-2010 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by netboy (Post 2520002)
Wow, another one...
Anyway.. I don't have a photobucket account so I'm going to try to put the pics on my USER CP.

I got almost 70 degrees peak at the vent using 1 ice block from an orange juice container. But the average vent temp was 75 for about 45 min outside with windows up and 95 degree ambient.

Were you driving the car or sitting still for this test? Shade or sunshine?
I'll be watching to see how the maiden voyage turns out. So far I was pretty close on my predictions.
Good luck!

netboy 08-06-2010 11:29 AM

cj.... I couldn't find in the thread where you predicted a 20 degree drop in ambient temp at the vent, but thanks for cheering me on. I really appreciate it.:D

Wired vent door closed at fan and sealed firewall, this should help alot. If I can keep 75 degree air blowing across the evap I should stay cooler longer before my BTUs run out of my ice.

LarryBible 08-06-2010 12:54 PM

If you used the TXV for your tapping into the evaporator point, I hope you gutted it first, otherwise you will have a serious flow impedance in the H Block. A large drill bit will clean it out.

Jetmugg 08-06-2010 01:26 PM

A salt brine / ice mixture will get even colder temps while still remaining liquid, but will certainly be more corrosive that plain water.

SteveM.

brandlj 08-06-2010 02:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jetmugg (Post 2520145)
A salt brine / ice mixture will get even colder temps while still remaining liquid, but will certainly be more corrosive that plain water.

SteveM.


Very true, and a slurry of ice and water will be colder than ice itself.

netboy 08-06-2010 03:26 PM

I will try adding salt, I can flush the system with clean water afterwards.
Thanks...

The Exp valve is completely removed, along with bottom 2 lines going thru the firewall, and I cut the threaded fittings off that go into the top of the Exp vlv. and installed my hoses there.

I also bypassed the complete vacumm manifold and plugged the main vacumm muscle into #5 which gives me all vent air and nothing else. It does not effect defrost, it still works at the windshield and its hot.

Closing the vent door behind the glovebox made a HUGE difference....I'm going to close it on all the cars. Is there any reason why you shouldn't? As bad as my vacumm a/c sys leaks they probably don't work the way they should. If I want fresh air I'll use the windows.

WDBCB20 08-06-2010 05:40 PM

CO2
 
Too bad it's beyond your budget (5lb bottle refills at weld shops, fire extinguisher suppliers, etc range from $ 8.00 to $20.) But it would be interesting to see how close you could get to the −78.5 °C (−109.3 °F) at the vents and how long the dry ice would last in the evap.

thayer 08-06-2010 06:00 PM

maybe close the rear vent, that will give you more air in the front.

moon161 08-06-2010 06:05 PM

[QUOTE=netboy;2520252]I will try adding salt, I can flush the system with clean water afterwards.
Thanks.../QUOTE]

Put antifreeze in the cooler, should also depress the melting point, not as corrosive.

Brandon_SLC 08-06-2010 06:57 PM

I saw a youtube video of a cooler based A/c system.

For example: It's Enginerd!!:cool:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZJQG1VZ3qu4&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o0teeoOwfYo&feature=related


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