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  #1  
Old 08-06-2010, 09:46 AM
mach0415's Avatar
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Location: Lawndale, NC
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Overheat...now what?

Last night my wife was in construction traffic on I-77 in SC. The 300SD she was driving stayed under 80 degrees the whole time until after she got out of traffic. Then, the battery light and brake light came on. The temp gauge started to move above 80 and then she pegged to 120! She called me and asked me what to do, so I told her to pull over now. I left to get her and the car. Two hours later I was there and loaded the car on my trailer. Got home at 2am this morning. Upon inspection, both alternator belts appeared to have come off. One was shredded and the other hanging. I assume one threw the other - hence the warning lights and overheat. Pulleys look good, water pump ok, etc. So I am assuming they were loose, as the power steering pump is slowwwly leaking and beltswith slight oil film (they have not been changed since I have had it approx 4mos). It will be a good time to change out the P/S pump with the extra one in the trunk. She probably never heard the flapping sound they made prior to all this. My question is, How probable is it that this OM617 engine will have suffered long-term catastrophic failure? It usually runs under 80 degrees all the time - even with the a/c chilling cold and 98 degrees outside. It has 300,000 miles on it and runs strong.
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"Spark plugs?...We don't need no stinking spark plugs!"
1985 300SD "Der Silberne Schlitten" 420,000 mi


Wish these were diesel:
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  #2  
Old 08-06-2010, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mach0415 View Post
Last night my wife was in construction traffic on I-77 in SC. The 300SD she was driving stayed under 80 degrees the whole time until after she got out of traffic. Then, the battery light and brake light came on. The temp gauge started to move above 80 and then she pegged to 120! She called me and asked me what to do, so I told her to pull over now. I left to get her and the car. Two hours later I was there and loaded the car on my trailer. Got home at 2am this morning. Upon inspection, both alternator belts appeared to have come off. One was shredded and the other hanging. I assume one threw the other - hence the warning lights and overheat. Pulleys look good, water pump ok, etc. So I am assuming they were loose, as the power steering pump is slowwwly leaking and beltswith slight oil film (they have not been changed since I have had it approx 4mos). It will be a good time to change out the P/S pump with the extra one in the trunk. She probably never heard the flapping sound they made prior to all this. My question is, How probable is it that this OM617 engine will have suffered long-term catastrophic failure? It usually runs under 80 degrees all the time - even with the a/c chilling cold and 98 degrees outside. It has 300,000 miles on it and runs strong.
If you did not lose any coolant, I would say that was a good sign. If I were you, I would replace the power steering pump, change out the oil, replace the belts, make sure that the coolant is up to snuff, and start driving. If damage did take place, you will know about it soon enough, but if not, you dogged a catastrophic event. Either way, you have nothing to loose but a little of your time, and a few bucks for belts. Good luck!!
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  #3  
Old 08-06-2010, 10:47 AM
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Answer

Install new belts..

Don't borrow trouble, wait until you verify there is any issue..

IMO; an oil change would be a good idea..
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  #4  
Old 08-06-2010, 10:48 AM
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You will not know until everthing is back together and runing again.

Ounce it is going again if you can I would let the Wife drive another Car while you drive the Mercedes for a few weeks and monitor the temp.

One of the things that has happen to me when an Engine over heated is that it loosened stuff inside of the Engine Coolant system and that stuff circulated into the Radiator core.
I have also had a Thermostat go bad win in a week or so after an overheating (also due to a belt issue).

You need to investigate deeper why the Belts came off. May be you Crankshaft Damper is haveing some issues.
Going by a construction sight do you think it is possible something came up from under the Car and got between the belts.
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  #5  
Old 08-06-2010, 11:18 AM
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Make sure the alternator did not lock up as well.

I had the A/C belt break, and even though it did not make any of the other belts break, it did manage to wrap part of itself in the fan clutch.
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  #6  
Old 08-06-2010, 01:44 PM
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Yeah, all of this crossed my mind. I just replaced the P/S pump an hour ago.I also put the belts on - checked pulley alignment and condition. A/c compressor good, Alternator good, water pump good. I did check crankshaft dampener and it all looks good. I had to rework the A/C clutch coil connector because the belts turned into a weed eater on it - all good now. I will need to change oil - using Rotella synthetic 5w40. BUT, in the process, I rested my hand lightly on the upper radiator hose, and guess what? Now, I need to make a radiator repair, so I will look at posts regarding hose nipple repair. Any suggestions that work well, short of radiator replacement? This is a real budget deal until I find a new radiator.
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Mark in NC

"Spark plugs?...We don't need no stinking spark plugs!"
1985 300SD "Der Silberne Schlitten" 420,000 mi


Wish these were diesel:
2003 Ford Club Wagon 130,000 mi
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  #7  
Old 08-06-2010, 11:04 PM
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Location: Northwest Ohio
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Find thin walled copper pipe, CPVC, or a steel nipple that fits inside the broken neck. Copper pipe or CPVC works well because you can get an oversized one and cut a slot so that you can compress it and it will spring back tight against the ID of the neck. Clean and rough up the surfaces on the inside of the neck and broken piece and outside of copper/CPVC, slather one end of nipple with JB weld, assemble nipple into the broken piece, slather other end of nipple with JB Weld, then insert into the radiator neck (index the broken piece to the radiator for a good original fit), lightly clamp together, clean the squeeze-out, and apply heat with a lamp. Wait at least 24 hours.

A hillbilly fix that has worked for me.

It might be a good idea to double clamp the hose, depending on where it broke.
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  #8  
Old 08-06-2010, 11:49 PM
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After you repair the top hose inlet, leave the radiator cap only on the first notch (no pressure ) for a couple of weeks to let the JB go real hard.
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  #9  
Old 08-07-2010, 07:44 AM
mach0415's Avatar
Diesel Weasel
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Lawndale, NC
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Thanks guys. I'll give it a shot. The overflow is cracked too, so I'll leave it that way until The JB Weld is cured. Then, I'll buy a new one
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Mark in NC

"Spark plugs?...We don't need no stinking spark plugs!"
1985 300SD "Der Silberne Schlitten" 420,000 mi


Wish these were diesel:
2003 Ford Club Wagon 130,000 mi
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