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#16
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I'd pull the old exhaust off and buy 3" mandrel bend pipe to replace the curves. Mandrel bends can be bought all the way to 180* bends & cut to match most factory bends. Buy enough 3" straight pipe to connect the pieces. A local shop can do the install using the stock flange. Perhaps have a machine shop modify the flange if appropriate. Around here, cash gets a better deal.
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do. |
#17
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I've done this with 6" for one of my coaches, had the pipes butt-welded instead of clamped, made a really nice 304 Stainless Steel system for much less than the OE aluminized steel system.
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Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#18
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Anybody purchase any products from these guys, they seem really inexpensive when it comes to stainless steel pipe, 45 degree bends and flex pipe.
Almost to good to be true. http://performance-curve.com/3x6flexpipe-3ply.aspx And for 409 stainless steel 45 bend that is mandrel bend it's only $18.00. http://performance-curve.com/245degreemandrelbend409ss-1-1-1.aspx Way cheap, Yes, I'm thinking of building my own system.
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Professional greasecar installer Austin TX 98 Jetta TDI with grease car kit + veg-therm (totaled) 87 MB 300SDL running on B99 / greasecar kit + 30 fphe www.austingreaseguys.com |
#19
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Try these guys for 304 elbows and misc.
KLG Stainless
They sell 304 in a dull looking I believe annealed grade , and in a sanitary/food grade shiney (not polished)304. I have not found any place that beat their prices for mandrel elbows, reducers, V bands, or fittings. I bought from them many times. I plan on starting my 3" stainless exhaust tomorrow. Lowflyingbird Last edited by Lowflyingbird; 08-16-2010 at 06:57 AM. |
#20
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Quote:
You are probaly looking for a 304 stainless system (or 308, 316, whatever you find in a 300-series, 304 is standard non-magnetic stainless). It will stay nice much longer.
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Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#21
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3" pics of mine almost finished
Here is what I welded up from 3" mandrel bends and straight pipe all 304. I kept the turbo flange, tab to transmission mount, & rear muffler hanger. I only have to hear it before installing the turn down tip. If it sounds good as is, then I just weld the tip. If it needs a little more smoothening, then I have a Vortec header insert to shove it the turn down.
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#22
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Can you get a list of parts that you used? Also, a video would be GREAT!
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1987 300TDT - 195,000 (Original #14 head) 1993 190E 2.3 - 105,000 1981 300D - 250,000 |
#23
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did you mig it? I have a decent mig setup, and a spool of SS wire, but my shield is co2/argon mix, I gotta either get an argon tank, or I wonder if I could use Nitrogen... I got plenty of nitrogen... can it be used with SS?
edit: wow, long info on welding SS... short answer, no. long answer... Stainless and Nitrogen Purge Gas Question. Ed as you are aware Nitrogen is a lot cheaper than argon when utilized as a purge gas for stainless. My question, When MIG welding stainless tanks edge or corner welds, tube or pipe open root welds, can nitrogen react with the stainless and have a negative impact? Answer: Nitrogen has a diatomic, "two atoms" per molecule. Nitrogen in the diatomic form is usually insoluble in molten stainless. However if the nitrogen gets into the weld arc, the plasma arc energy can seperate the diatomic molecules and create monatomic molecules. The monatomic molecules are soluble in the weld. The nitrogen, monatomic (seperated molecules) become an alloying element and can reduce the ferrite in a stainless weld. A reduction in ferrite in some alloys can cause the weld to be more austenitic and sensitive to hot cracking. If nitrogen enters a weld or the welding arc, it can have a negative and sometimes a positive influence. Thats the reason one of my gas mixes for duplex has the addition of nitrogen, and the other gas mix does not. There are stainless alloys which do not need ferrite like 320 / 310. With these alloys nitrogen has no negative impact on these alloys. Also if the stainless alloys have high ferrite levels they typically can afford to loose a little of the ferrite to the nitrogen. With closed root, austenitic stainless welds, as found in tanks, corner, edge welds, or thin gage, partial penetration tube welds, nitrogen is the logical, economical, purge gas choice for all austenitic, duplex, martensitic and precipitation hardening stainless steel applications. The only concern would be a few specific, ferritic alloys in which nitrogen could cause severe weld mechanical issues.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! Last edited by vstech; 08-29-2010 at 11:43 PM. |
#24
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Stainless
All said and done, I used three 3" 90 deg. elbows from KLG stainless. I do not remember who I bought the tube from, probably off ebay. The Magnaflow muffler from Performancepeddler on Ebay $54. The pair of 1/2" thick 3 bolt stainless header flanges off Ebay too $? Thin stainless solid rod for hangar $4. I use 75/25 argon/Co2 mix gas with my stainless wire in my MIG, it works fine for rough work. I heard now they offer a tri gas mix which is about $5 more and is perfect on many metals, have not used it yet. I spent about $120-140 in materials.
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#25
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Cut out the mufflers and replace them with hardware store exhaust pipe. Will cost about $20 in parts and about an hour labor.
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#26
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Quote:
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#27
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Flex pipe
Hi,
There is no flex pipe on these generation cars, turbo or non-turbo. |
#28
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Cutting out the cat converter is a simple $30 fix that can unrestrict your exhaust probably more than an extra 1/2 inch on the tube.. I'm just saying.
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Cheers! Scott McPhee 1987 300D |
#29
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Quote:
In fact, just about every car's exhaust I have ever seen has some form of flex pipe on it near the engine.
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#30
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my personal preference is a 4" straight pipe. sounds awesome and almost as deep as a straight pipe cummins while retaining the high pitched cry of the turbo.
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