I'm Baaaaack! (HA!)

Well, Delilah is at it again. . .

A little background:

I replaced my AC Compressor, drier and all the o-rings, took it to a shop and had it evacuated and charged. AC worked great for a week . . . I went out of town, wife drove it for three days and then the AC blew hot air.

I took it back to the shop for them to re-check it . . . this is where the problems started...

I got a call from the shop telling me they couldn't get the car started. After speaking to the shop manager he explained that the tumbler turned but did not feel like it was "engaging anything inside the switch"

SO, I went down to the shop . . . sure enough, the key and tumbler turn like they are not attached to anything behind it.

I removed the tumbler and, without thinking, attempted to move the internals of the steering lock assembly to see if I could get the GP to light up or to see if it felt as though it was turning correctly.

I turned it about 180 degrees and then the steering lock engaged . . .

MY QUESTION

Do I have to drill this out or is there a way for me to move the "lever" inside the steering lock with a screwdriver (or other such tool) to undo the steering lock?

While I have you . . . does my diagnosis of a new Steering Lock assembly jive with the experts?

I replaced the ignition switch and now wish I just would have replaced the assembly and tumbler while I was at it!!!

Thanks (in advance!)

__________________
1982 240
460,000 miles total
140,000 on Rebuild

Yeah,Well... It's Engaged Now (AND wants it's Wedding Diamond...Your Blood)

(Whether it's possible to "McGuiver" it out I'll leave to the True Masochists.)

I'll go out on a Limb and suggest you ALSO replace the Electrical portion of the
Ignition switch assembly.

Attached Thumbnails

   

__________________
'84 300SD sold
124.128

there are three screws that connect the electrical portion to mechanical portion. On my 83sd they were loose when I took it all apart. if they get very loose, the male can disengage from the female. hehe, thats what she said. anyway...you can always pull the cluster and the kick panel and tighten those screws until it re engages....you can also pull the tumbler if you feel like it.


Can you turn the tumbler?

__________________

77' 300D, "Cartman" SOLD @ 150K (didn't know what I had)
83' 300SD, "The Superdon" 325k+ @ 28mpg
95 E320 wagon, "Millennium Falcon" 231k+ @ 24 Mpg
95 E300D, "Sherley" 308k @ 33.69 Mpg, currently anticipating a head
99 Suzuki Intruder "Trudy" @ 45 mpg

Good you have the tumbler out. you turned it to see if the gp light would come on. did it? then you turned it 180 degrees, which direction? to start, or off?

With a screwdriver in the slot where the tumbler goes, start turning it, and moving the steering wheel back and forth to see if it will release. need to at least get the pressure off the steering lock. keep working it, it should eventually release. might have to use a hammer to shake it loose while turning.

I have 2 in my hands Iam playing with (Lock assy ) and one was in the steering lock position. I got it to turn finally with a screwdriver. don`t know if pushing that spring loaded button had anything to do with it or not. but both of them will turn to the start position. now they don`t go back to the lock position, but will turn back to the off position.

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

I replaced the actual switch (electrical part) several weeks ago . . . should have just replaced it all then.

I'll mess with it tomorrow . . . the problem is is that it's at the shop . . . no way to get it home unless I trailer it and I'm not keen on spending that $$ if I can get it unlock.

I'll replace the tumbler and locking mechanism this time.

It sounds like I might be able to get the locking pin to release by messing with the release inside the steering lock (where the tumbler sat) . . . so I'll try that.

SIGH

__________________
1982 240
460,000 miles total
140,000 on Rebuild

Maybe it is time to join AAA or one of the other Auto Clubs to get a Free Tow home.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thanks for the 'help'

I know you're have a TON of knowledge about these cars 911 . . . can you tell me if I'm on the right "path" here? Replacing the locking mechanism?

Can I manipulate the internals of the locking mechanism to get the rod to release so I can remove it? I know the tumbler is supposed to be installed and turned so I can depress the button on the rod so it can be removed . . . can this be accomplished if the internals of the locking mechanism were turned without the tumbler being installed?

__________________
1982 240
460,000 miles total
140,000 on Rebuild

Well, I got the old lock out mechanism out . . . problem is in my BRAND NEW (cheapo) Ignition Switch.

I guess you get what you pay for!!

So frustrated.

At least I'm not going to be out the $200 for the lock out . . .

This switch worked for exactly two weeks . . . contacted distributor . . . "warranty" is two weeks.

Don't know if it's ok to post places NOT to get parts on here . . . this sucks.

Live and Learn . . . going back with mercedes switch.

__________________
1982 240
460,000 miles total
140,000 on Rebuild

please post the brand of the poor quality part

so others don't get into the same pain

any vendor and can offer a bad brand and that doesn't make the vendor bad,
they are just offering a choice (cheap) and you took it

__________________
Cheers!
Scott McPhee

1987 300D

holtmus- Thanks for getting this started. I'm locked out right now, too, only my two month old switch has been turned by me, apparantly, to the lock position and now my new key will insert and unsert just fine, but I can't force it clockwise. I've been thinking alot of how I probably should have done the lock when I did the switch. But the other way was "cheaper and easier". That's a red flag. Thanks, Thayer for the tip about the loose housing. I hope it works for me. It would be like that bolt that magically fixes reverse when you think you've got a transmission to revamp.
And I agree with Scott. Tell me the brand of that part! Help us out! Also, I agree with diesel911. AAA is the most productive $80 I spend all year, and it gets me, my wife and our 24 year old daughter "Plus" coverage. 100 mile tow, bring you 5 gallons of fuel, jump your dead ass battery, unlock your car, change your tire in your driveway, bail you out of jail (Maybe not that).
Thanks for all the information input from everybody, and to holtmus for the request.

__________________
"Knowing is not enough, we must apply.
Willing is not enough, we must do." Goethe

***********************************


1951 Chevy 3100

2003 Indian Chief Roadmaster

1983 GMC 1 ton Dually

1982 Chevy 1 ton Dually, service body (sold)

'90 GMC Suburban 6.2 "SS Veg-Burban"
(single tank WVO\diesel conversion) SOLD

'81 300D ~ Mama's car...my job (now my car)(but still my job) SOLD

'83 300sd ~ rescue car SOLD

2005 Ford Taurus (Mama's new car)(NOT my job!)

I purchased the ignition switch off of E-bay - the vendor has very good feedback and gave me an instant refund without having to return the ignition switch . . . HOWEVER he/she claims that "all parts are QUALITY GERMAN PARTS - no knock offs" and lo and behold, I find out it's a URO part . . . after doing a search because I'm having another problem that i think is related to my new ignition switch . . . I find out that the URO parts are junk.

The E-bay vendor is Autobahn4parts . . . don't know if that is legal. Again, though, they gave a full refund with no questions or having to ship the old part back.

I'll be starting a new thread on my ignition switch problems.

__________________
1982 240
460,000 miles total
140,000 on Rebuild