Possibly not, I tried this with an 85 300TD tranny and a 80 240D.

heres the thread- will a 300D turbo auto tranny work on a 240?

Maybe if the years are closer? still, you would probably be better off just looking for matches for that exact car

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This post brought to you by Carl's Jr.

Howzabout uploading some pics of your new babies?

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[/SIGPIC]~cirrusman

1983 Mercedes Benz 300SD - Wife calls him "Chitty Chitty Bang Bang"
[SIGPIC]




1983 Toyota Tercel (Tommy, The little Toyota that could)
1965 Ford F100 (Grandma Ford)
2005 Toyota Sienna (Elsa, Wife's ride)


Gone:
1988 Toyota Pickup
2004 Subaru Outback

1987 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham
1986 Volvo 740 GL Station Wagon - Piece of junk.
1981 Volvo 242 DL 2 Door - Hated to see it go. R.I.P.
1987 Pontiac Fiero GT

Alright. I picked it up and I'm about halfway across Wyoming!

The good: Reverse came back with the Reverse Band Adjuster. And a little tweaking of the vacuum hoses by Manfred's Import Auto in Cary IL, and the thing is shifting beautifully!

The Bad: Needed $400 worth of brake work. Spills tranny fluid when it downshifts and leaks about 2 qts engine oil per 1000 miles. Lots of little issues like the radio/heat/fan/dash lights/door locks. The heater core has been unplugged and at one point in SD the unplugged hose jammed in the throttle linkage and stuck the pedal at full down! Nothing a little zip tying and a clean change of undershorts didn't fix.

Oh yeah, and the drivers side seat belt fell off at the body. I managed to jerry rig it until I can get my hands on a welder.

If this thing makes it back to Eureka, Ca I think I'll name it Ulysses.

Where is it coming from? If it is from underneath (as opposed to from the filler tube), try to identify whether it is at the vacuum modulator or a transmission cooler line. If it is at the modulator, you probably just need a new O-ring. You will most likely have to have it up on stands and running to determine this. Take all safely precautions. But first look under there with the car off after a leak and you may be able to identify the source.

Sounds like you have plenty to keep you busy in the near future.

Richard

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85 300D 75K Anthracite Grey 0-60 in 13 seconds **For Sale**
84 300D 333K Black (The Velveteen Rabbit) 0-60 in 14 seconds
00 Toyota Sienna 208K (Sold)
15 Subaru Outback 43K
11 Subaru Outback 67K
98 Ford Taurus 100K (Gertie - Was Grandma's - drove it to church and shopping - really) Daughter's car now.
30 Model A Ford 2 Door Sedan (Sold) 0-60 in . . . Never reached 60

Absolutely perfect name. What color is it?

I know I'm late to the party but I have a friend who worked in the service dept at Knauz Mercedes in Chicago (Lake Bluff) and those guys were always really on the ball. I havent been back there in a long while so I can't vouch for any of their newer employees.

I'm glad you're surviving the road trip.

Well, keep us informed on how the rest of the trip is going. Take extra everything after you get to Salt Lake City. From there on, there is literally nothing except for a few donkey trails that intersect the I-80. I know, I broke down there with a truck!!!! Also, you will gain some elevation. So, extra tire, make sure you have all the pieces of the jack, lots of jugs of water/coolant, lots of extra ATF (buy it by the gallon at the local walmart in SLC, along with extra 15-40 Diesel oil that you buy by the gallon, also at Walmart. It is a good quality oil. Also, buy some 2-stroke motor oil to add to the fuel tank (about 4 to 6 ounces per tank) . . . it is a wonderful upper cylinder lubricant that will keep the engine running cooler. It's a lot cheaper than Lucas. Simply buy the Hi-Tek brand that WalMart sells. Works great on my car and my Peterbilt. Being overprepared seems to insure that nothing will go wrong. Put your luggage on top of any of it, and that's what will break down!!! Since you've already gone down the Rabbit Hole . . ..

Torie

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1983 300D, the "Avocado"
1976 240D, 4-spd the "Pumpkin", SOLD to Pierre
1984 190D, 2.2L, 5-spd, my intro to MBZ diesels, crashed into in 2002

Good luck. Sounds like you just don't have enough parts cars (yet) to fix all the little issues.

SteveM.

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'93 190E/D 2.5 Turbodiesel 5-speed (daily driver)
'87 190D 2.5 Turbo rustbucket - parts car
'84 Dodge Rampage diesel - Land Speed Record Holder
'13 Ram 2500 Diesel
'05 Toyota 4Runner

I've been busy for a while but here's the update. The car made it, still runs like a champ, and is now named The General Sherman or "the General" for short. I'm currently tackling the "parts" car.

I picked up a 78 240D as a parts car for $500 and realized that it's in better shape than the General except for some front end damage.

The more stuff I pull off the more apparent it is that this might be a pretty simple fix. It looked really scary with radiators and fan peaces all over the place.

I 've got most of it figured out except for the drivers side headlight frame/housing is trashed. It looks like it's glued/welded to the engine compartment panel. I was able to bend the passenger side frame back into place but this one took more damage.

How would one remove the damaged headlight frame? I'm having crazed thoughts involving cutting and reinforcing with sheet metal.

The crosspiece is riveted and should be an easy fix.

I posted this in the body work section too but figured it couldn't hurt to close the loop here.

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Looks like you'll need some new hood hinges, too. I think I'd replace the entire quarter-panel, since that's just bolted on with an occasional spot weld. If you can find a good parts car in the junkyard to get the parts . . . and since that was the most popular color at that time, you might luck out without having to repaint the panel. If you must, I know a shop in SoCal that probably still does original paint on individual panels, then buffs out the rest of the car, and it will look brand new . . . and they'll do it a lot cheaper than most.

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1983 300D, the "Avocado"
1976 240D, 4-spd the "Pumpkin", SOLD to Pierre
1984 190D, 2.2L, 5-spd, my intro to MBZ diesels, crashed into in 2002

I'm looking at a parts car that's about 5 hrs away. Judging by the pics on craigslist it looks like the right color. I've got the VIN so I'm calling the shop Monday to see if the colors match.

Is there a website where I can do that?

The web site I have used in the past is no longer working, but the paint code will be on the data card, a three digit number, underlined in the pic.

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83 SD

84 CD

So, when are you going to post pics of both cars? After all, we did watch you go down the rabbit hole, times two, and lick the mushroom . . . LOL. Want to see what those babies look like.

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1983 300D, the "Avocado"
1976 240D, 4-spd the "Pumpkin", SOLD to Pierre
1984 190D, 2.2L, 5-spd, my intro to MBZ diesels, crashed into in 2002

Alright.......an update.

The "parts" car is up and purring like a kitten, and the General sold for $1700.

I got creative with a hacksaw and a welder and put the front of the car back together. Everything was back together but I couldn't get it started. Sent it to the local shop (German Auto in Arcata) and they tweaked the fuel pump and timing and she's running great!

The mech said the compression wasn't great (155, 170, 200, 250) but it has WAY more power than the General. 4speed helps I think.

I'm moving back to Wisconsin now (another epic MB road trip!) and had to prioritize vehicles.

I lost money on the General but I got a sweet running 78 240D for a grand total of $1056.41. The only thing I need to bring this thing to damn near mint is a color matched hood.

Thanks to everybody that helped. I'll post pics soon!

Does this mean you and the wife are divorcing over the car issues? LOL. When is the move happening? You are keeping the 4-spd? They are awesome!!!! All leaks fixed? I suggest you do a valve adjustment, and make sure all the injectors and glow plugs are as tight as they should be, and you might bump up that compression. Since it is lowering in sequence, you may wish to keep a close watch on the head gasket, to make sure there is no leaking from it, even if you don't see evidence of oil or water leak from the sides . . . get a mirror to examine the firewall side of the gasket. Keep us posted. Will all the family cars go on the move, which one will be on the trailer, if any? And . . . good luck . . . I hope you've gone shopping for all the new metric tools for the Benz at a Harbor Freight during a fire sale, like I did (got everything I needed in Metric for under $38, including all wrenches, ratchets, boxed end, open end and deep well sockets).

And yes, the folks here are awesome, that's why I keep coming back, and we are all anxiously awaiting your responses . . . would like to see pics of the car from diff angles.

Torie

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1983 300D, the "Avocado"
1976 240D, 4-spd the "Pumpkin", SOLD to Pierre
1984 190D, 2.2L, 5-spd, my intro to MBZ diesels, crashed into in 2002

The valves where adjusted or at least checked for usable clearance before the compression test? Not unusual for the valves not to have been adjusted for years on these. Yet they really are a requirement as they tend to tighten up over time. Recommended checking frequency is every 15k.