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My '83 300SD has MB-Tex seats, and a Santa Ana just hit SoCal
Yet another AC question...
When I bought the car the AC didn't work. A rebuilt master control switch, a new drier unit, rebuilding the monovalve, and recharging the system took care of that, and the AC worked great until last winter when the bracket for the AC pump came loose from the engine block, causing the belt to snap. "Oh well, I will take care of that when the weather warms up" I said to myself. Bad call... Now with a new belt installed I can only get AC if I manually apply voltage to the pump wires. Otherwise, the pump never engages. I have voltage to the monovalve no matter where the switches on the dash are set to. Where should I go from here? I really don't want to replace that switch unit... |
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Questions
After perusing a few threads it seems that it may be:
1. Refrigerant needs recharging Can I test this myself? 2. A bad relay Which one is it? |
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TC Current stable: - 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL - 2007 Saturn sky redline - 2004 Explorer...under surgery. Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth |
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Also, what about the relay location? Any tips? Last edited by ThePhoenix; 08-17-2010 at 02:10 PM. |
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That's correct and normal. If you set the temp control to "min" (18?) one of the pins should then be grounded to close the valve; at that point one pin will have ~13 VDC and one will have ~0 VDC. (for access either slide the connector up a little, or pop the cover off with your eyeglass screwdriver)
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James Marriott 2003 Buick Regal 1983 300D (228k, frau Auto) 1996 Suburban K2500 (192k, 6.5 turbo diesel/4WD towmaster 10,000) www.engineeringworks.biz 1987 300SDL junker 170k 1982 300SD junker, 265k |
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__________________
TC Current stable: - 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL - 2007 Saturn sky redline - 2004 Explorer...under surgery. Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth |
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