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  #16  
Old 08-26-2010, 05:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt L View Post
I haven't worked on a manual Benz, but have worked on other clutch systems.

The problem is that the master cylinder outlet is in the middle, so it's hard to force all the air out of it. The inlet is on top, so reverse bleeding gets the air out of the master cylinder very quickly.

That's to say nothing of the slave cylinder, of course. I had one car that needed to be bled both ways to get it right.
I've bled slave cylinders on two other cars by pressurizing the brake resevoir. I was just wondering why Mercedes is different.

Scott

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  #17  
Old 08-26-2010, 01:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott98 View Post
Why won't hooking a pressure bleeder up to the brake resevoir and cracking the slave cylinder bleed screw just like you are bleeding brakes work on these cars?

Scott
When I first did mine, I thought the same thing. even though I had read to bleed from the bottom up.

I hooked up my Motive Pressure bleeder and blew a ton of fluid from the top down, and still the clutch wouldn`t work. for the amount of fluid I used, it would seem there would be no way for air to be trapped in there.

I tried the MB suggested way, R/F caliper to Slave. Just didn`t seem like fluid was making it back to the reservor, and It leaked around the slave bleeder. got a couple good brake fluid baths under there.

As MATTL mentioned, the MC in the middle iis the problem, air get trapped in it. I had an Indi tell me to tap the MC with something to jiggle the air to move up. maybe pump the peddle, tap the MC etc...

To finally get mine to work after fuetle attempts every other way, I had my wife pump the peddle, and I bled the Slave from under the car. all of a sudden it worked. maybe that was what it took to knock the air bubble loose.

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
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Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

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  #18  
Old 08-26-2010, 03:59 PM
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Like me, it took a few attempts to "reverse" bleed it and taping the bleeders was the difference
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  #19  
Old 08-27-2010, 03:09 PM
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The only way it worked for me was to put the Mighty-Vac on the slave bleeder.
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  #20  
Old 08-27-2010, 04:21 PM
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I've successfully bled 2 from underneath, "reverse bleeding" through the slave cylinder with a pressurized bleeder, but not without spewing a bunch of fluid all over the ground.

Steve.
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  #21  
Old 08-27-2010, 05:10 PM
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I use a pressure bleeder from the top and pumped the peddle. Has worked for me several times but always on the same car. I could never get the MB method to work, never tried taping the bleeders which would have solved the issue I had of shooting pressure out the threads of the bleeders
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  #22  
Old 08-27-2010, 05:16 PM
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I struggled with trying to bleed the clutch in my 200D for days. I could only get a little pressure at the very end of the pedal, no matter what I did.

Then later I found out that the clutch fork had either popped off of the pivot ball, or the pivot ball is broken. I adjusted the pushrod on the slave cylinder as far out as it could safely go and I have been driving it this way ever since. It feels like there is nothing wrong with it but when I have the engine and transmission separated again I am going to fix the problem, whatever it may be.
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  #23  
Old 08-28-2010, 12:16 PM
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Slave Cylinder Bleeder Nipple Mod

Brake and/or Clutch Bleeding = cheap pressure bleeder

I tried this a few weeks ago when I was flushing out the brakes. then got a new pressure oil can to do the reverse flush on the clutch.

I just had fluid leaking around the slave bleeder threads, and didn`t seem to go through the system.

I have thought of using a old bleeder off a slave cylinder. file the pointed end flat, then drill a hole through the center. screw it back on tight, attach the hose and pump away w/o the brake fluid leakage.
then when done, swap in the good bleeder nipple. with a little gravity flow of fluid, there probably wouldn`t be a problem with air getting in. just an idea.
This might also reduce a chance of air being injested around the threads of the loose nipple.
Any one have ideas on this one???

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #24  
Old 08-28-2010, 02:07 PM
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I think swapping bleeder nipple after it's bled is too messy. I think using teflon tape on the nipple (thick yellow gas tape) will do the job and easiest. Too bad brake caliper's do not come with nylock inserts, it would solve a lot of problems such as reverse bleeding and rusted out nipples.
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  #25  
Old 08-28-2010, 08:12 PM
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I did the master and slave on my 85 300TD and had too use teflon tape to stop the bleed nipples from leaking. Next time I will try the "oil can method" though the "brake slave" method has been working fine it seems using the oil can would be simpler, only one hose clamp to mess with.
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  #26  
Old 09-05-2010, 11:20 AM
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It was the master cylinder. I also used the teflon tape and that helped keep things clean underneath.
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  #27  
Old 09-05-2010, 02:25 PM
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Did you use the "oil can", brake slave, or "mighty vac' method to bleed the system?
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1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
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2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
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  #28  
Old 09-05-2010, 05:51 PM
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Oil can, worked perfectly the first time.
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  #29  
Old 09-05-2010, 11:45 PM
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good too know, thanks

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
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1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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