A couple days ago I replaced both fuel filters on my '82 300td. Screwed that new filter on, pumped the primer pump until diesel was squirting out all over and then it cranked, caught, died. Now it just cranks, cranks, and doesn't start. Is there something I didn't do with the filter that I should have on installation?

Also, the filter didn't come with a copper washer, which I'm reading about. Am I going to have a leak because of this?

Thanks for the help,

marshall

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marshall

1982 300TD (220,000 mi.)

Did you fill the secondary filter with fuel before screwing it on? If not you probably got air in the lines. You can break the injector hard lines loose (at the injectors) and crank the engine over until you see a dribble of fuel coming out. Then it should fire right up. Tighten all the lines ans be on your way...

If you have the old style primer pump (the white one), be sure it is properly seated as they are VERY prone to leaking (getting air into the lines). If you have the newer (black one) it is not a problem.

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AJ

1985 300D (SOLD)

where was fuel squirting out all over the place from?

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
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My drivers:
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1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Agreed.
Did your spin on (secondary) filter have a crush washer on the old one? You can tell if it should have one by the number on the fuel filter head. The one in the pic has an "02", you see the banjo bolt with two rubber "O" rings, this one does not need the crush washer.
If you have a fuel filter head with an "01", the banjo bolt will have one rubber "O" ring and a one time use crush washer on top.

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83 SD

84 CD

If you didn't fill the spin on filter with diesel, diesel purge, or ATF you'll have to pump the primer pump for a good while until all the air gets out. These cars can be a bit of a bear to get started again after a filter change. Once you fill the IP with the air that was in the filter it takes a lot of pumping to get it all out. Keep pumping. I've gotten to where I can change the filter, and give the primer pump a few pumps and start the car up and it doesn't miss a beat. But I've done it a few times at this point.

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Is it better to change both filters at once or one at a time even if you are replaceing both?

i.e. take off primary filter..prime...then start car, then replace secondary screw-on filter ..prime..then start the car again.

or

replace both...prime..then start the car.

Does it make a difference?

I hope my question makes sense.

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It doesn't matter. The primary filter isn't hard to refill with fuel with a couple pumps of the primer pump. And has minimal air in it when you put in the new one. The troublesome filter is the secondary(spin-on) filter. It contains a lot more air if you don't fill it with fuel. I usually replace the primary filter first, but that's just order I go in. There really isn't a rhyme or reason for it.

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John:
Fuel squirts out from the plunger of the primer (I have the white one, which yes, is prone to leaking if not super-tightened). I've always assumed that when fuel squirts out from that handle that the system was purged of air. But maybe I need to do it longer, or try opening the fuel line before the injectors? Hopefully, I'll try later.

Thanks for all the help!

marshall

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marshall

1982 300TD (220,000 mi.)

You should not have any fuel spurting from the primer pump. if fuel squirts out,then you are not getting the full pressure it is applying. If fuel is squirting out, air can also be sucked in.

Replace the primer pump with the new style black one. nothing to unscrew, just pump.

The primer pump pushes fuel from the feed pump to the spinon filter, down to the IP, then back through the spin on return line (Cigar Hose) to the fuel tank.

The primer Pump has no effect on fuel coming out of the Hard lines to the Injectors.

The hard lines from the IP to the fuel Injectors is purged by turning the engine over. Loosen the nuts at the injectors, turn the engine over, and as fuel starts leaking, tighten the nut.

Always fill the spin on filter before replacing it. this will cut your problems 99%

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Sounds like I've got air in the lines just before the injectors. I'll bleed them. And: I have the #1 filter style, so it looks like I'll need a copper crush washer. Are those available at any auto parts store or am I going to have to go to the dealer?

marshall

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marshall

1982 300TD (220,000 mi.)

Yay! It started.
Another MB forum success!

I loosened the nuts at the injectors and started cranking. The injector closest to the firewall (#5) fills first, then in order to the front. It took me a bit longer than it should have to realize I could tighten each injector after fuel was flowing out!

But it took a lot of cranking. I'm glad my battery was up to it. I'm also glad I've got a trickle charger with me to recharge the battery overnight before I need to use it again.

Lesson learned: when changing a fuel filter I will always fill it first.

My primer pump now leaks continually however, no matter how tight. So the spurting fuel on usage was an indicator of progressive failure.

Thank you again to all who helped. I greatly value learning about these cars, and your advice helped keep me on the road.

-marshall

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marshall

1982 300TD (220,000 mi.)

This happened to me today..... [I should have known better ! ! ]
Cracked the injector lines, cranked the engine until fuel started to drip from them tightening them down one by one, until I got the the front one. I broke a couple of the injector return hoses, you might want to have some of that on hand ! Those rubber lines turn into brittle material almost like a vacuum line over the years. A-1 thread here, very useful. Thanks guys

Replace that primer pump. It's an easy fix. Remove the intake line on that pump (on the right, IIRC). This gives clearance to unscrew the primer pump. Then grab the white handled pump down on the metal part with vise grips or channellocks and unscrew it. Screw the replacement one back in. Screw in the intake side. You're done!

I was under the impression that the old style primer was designed to leak when the secondary was fully primed? Maybe I just had a leaky primer.

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79 EURO 300D
80 240D

If it leaks, replace it.